


— -•- 





Class 



Book <F<3 



GopightN . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE 



SCIENCE AND CARE OF 
THE HAIR AND NAILS 



A TREATISE UPON THE RECOGNIZED 
MEDICAL PRINCIPLES OF THEIR 
SCIENTIFIC CARE AND CULTIVATION 



A MANUAL 

OF PRACTICAL APPLICATION 



BY 



HOLWAY DEAN FARRAR, M. D 

H 



ILLUSTRATED 



COLUMBUS, OHIO 

THE F. J, HEER PRINTING CO. 

1915 



*£ 



COPYRIGHTED 1915 

BY 

HOLWAY DEAN FARRAR, M. D. 



5)GI.A411354 

SEP -7 1915 



PREFACE. 

SCIENTIFIC care and cultivation of the 
Hair and Nails is the most important 
cosmetic problem of modern life. In 
the past, the subject of Hair and Nail growth 
and health was submitted solely to the pseudo- 
scientific knowledge of the Hairdresser or 
Manicurist; or the injudicious application of 
proprietary hair, scalp and nail preparations 
was resorted to, with frequently disastrous 
results. Today it is recognized that the 
scientific care and cultivation of beautiful 
Hair and Nails lies entirely within the domain 
of modern medicine. 

There is no royal road to the desired end; 
nor does success crown the particular and 
limited methods of a favored few. To believe 
that a healthy, lustrous crop of hair is to be 
found in a bottle of medicine or a jar of oint- 
ment is as inconsistent as confidence that a 
diseased scalp may be restored to normal 
health by the extremely dangerous practice 
of massaging it, thereby aggravating any 
existing unhealthy condition, and spreading 
the disease over the entire cranium. Common 
sense advises that the wisest treatment con- 

(iii) 



iv Preface. 

sists in taking only that which is good from 
the different methods, and combining them 
into a perfect whole. 

This we have endeavored to do. 

We believe that a few minutes of time 
daily devoted to the systematic care of the 
Hair and Nails, with a careful observation 
of the laws of hygiene, and with the applica- 
tion of proper remedial measures, will insure 
nails that are beautiful and hair that is nat- 
ural in color and normal in quantity until 
practically the end of life. 

H. D. F. 






TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Page 
CHAPTER I. 
A Review of Cosmetics 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Anatomy of the Hair and Scalp 31 

The Skin — Hair Follicle — Hair Papilla — Structure of the 
Hair — Sebaceous Glands — Sweat Glands — Blood Supply — Muscles 
of the Hair — Types of Hair. 

CHAPTER III. 
Physiology of the Hair 37 

Rudimentary Hair — Age of Puberty — New Hair — Length 
of Hair Life — Rate of Growth — Chemical Composition of the 
Hair — The Pigment — Color Determinants — Shades of Hair — 
Diameter of Scalp Hair — Hygroscopic Properties — Elasticity and 
Strength — Uses of Hair. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Hygiene of the Hair 42 

False Hair — Sun Bleached Hair — The Hair Brush — Care 
of the Brush — Proper Use — The Comb — Proper Use — Hair Pins 
— Hot Curling Irons — Hair Cutting — Clipping the Hair — Singeing 
the Hair — Shaving — The Hair Line — Dressing the Hair — Hair 
Dressing Parlors and Barber Shops. 

CHAPTER V. 

The Shampoo 54 

Shampoo Mixtures — Application — Frequency — Apparent 
Loss of Hair — Chemicals in the Shampoo — Dry Shampoo — 
Shampoo Formulae — Special Shampoo Mixtures. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Scalp Massage 64 

Scientific Methods. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Hair Curling and Hair Straightening 68 

Hair Curling Liquids — Kinky Hair — Methods for Straightening. 

(v) 



vi Table of Contents. 

Page 
CHAPTER VIII. 

Hygiene of the Hair and Scalp of Children 73 

The Shampoo — The Brush and Comb — Hair Cutting — Eye- 
brows and Eyelashes. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Hygiene of White Hair 78 

General Suggestions — Choice of Soaps — The Shampoo— 
— Shampoo Mixtures — Shampoo for Greasy Hair — Use of Indigo 
— Drying the Hair — Dry Shampoo — Bleaching — Application of 
Oil — The Brush and Comb — Hot Curling Irons — Hair Tonics. 

CHAPTER X. 

Alopecia — Loss of Hair 84 

Congenital Baldness — Treatment — Acquired Baldness — 
Early Loss of Hair — Idiopathic Form — Treatment and Formulae 
— Symptomatic Form — Treatment — Defluvium Capillorum — 
Treatment — Dandruff — Seborrhcea — Treatment — Loss of Hair 
Due to Age — Treatment — Bald Spots — Treatment. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Symptoms of Beginning Baldness 106 

Methods to Detect Abnormal Loss of Hair. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Hair Tonics for General Use 108 

Commercial Hair Tonics — Tonic Suggestions — Tonic For- 
mulae of Pilocarpin, Cantharides, Quinine, Tonic Oils, Resorcin, 
Sage, Ammonia, Mercury, Capsicum, Formicarium, Chloral 
Hydrate, Sulphur, Tannic Acid, Arnica, Tar, Crude Petroleum, 
Balsam Peru, etc. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Hair Oils, Brillantines, Pomades 131 

Special Formulae for Hair Oils Brillantine Formulae- 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Abnormal Growth of Hair — Hairiness 139 

Hair Removers — Treatment — Special Formulae. 

CHAPTER XV. 

The Eyebrows 143 

The Perfect Eyebrow — Anatomy of the Brows — Diseases — 
Defects — Treatment — Methods of Dyeing or Staining— Formulae 
for Harmless Stains — Eyebrow Pencils. 



Table of Contents. vii 

Page 
CHAPTER XVI. 

The Eyelashes . 154 

Anatomy — Diseases — Defects — Rules of Hygiene — Methods 
of Dyeing or Staining. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Mustache and Beard 160 

Stick Mustache Wax — Special Formulae — Mustache Dress- 
ing — Beard Liquid — Special Formulae. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Prevention of Gray Hair 165 

Its Cause and Correction — Medicinal Preparations Used — 
Pilocarpin — Acetic Acid— Special Formulae. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Gray Hair 170 

Congenital Gray Hair — Treatment — x\cquired Gray Hair — Treatment. 

CHAPTER XX. 

Bleaching the Hair 175 

Lemon Juice Hair Bleach — Peroxide of Hydrogen — Appli- 
cation — Bleaching the Roots of the Hair. 

CHAPTER XXL 

Hair Dyes 179 

Hair Restorers — Vegetable Restorers — Special Formulae — 
Vegetable and Mineral Restorers — Formulae. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers 190 

Special Formulae. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Instantaneous Vegetable Hair Dyes 201 

Henna — Henna and Reng— Method of Application — Walnut 
Extracts — Formulae — Combined Walnut Hair Dye and Oil — 
Formulae — Pyrogallol — Formulae — Harmless Black Dyes. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes 211 

Manganese — Formulae — Iron — Formulae — Bismuth — 
Formulae— Quicksilver Dyes— Silver Nitrate Dyes— Method of 
Application— Special Formulae— Synthetic Hair Dyes. 



viii Table of Contents. 

Page 
CHAPTER XXV. 

Scientific Application of Hair Dye 225 

Proper Method — Suggestions. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

The Finger and Toe Nails 229 

The Finger Nails — Anatomy — Color— Shape — Shortening — 
Trimming — Filing — Cleansing — Hang Nails — Treatment — Treat- 
ing the Cuticle — Treatment for Dry, Brittle Nails — Bleaching 
the Hands — Moulding — The Manicure — Instruments and Proper 
Methods—jCosmetic Preparations-Formulae for : iNail Bleaches — 
Polishes — Enamel— Ointments — Finger Tints. Diseases of the 
Nails — Absence of Nail Plates — Warped Nails — Discolorations — 
White Spots — Treatment — Softening — Treatment — Furrows — 
Treatment — Nail Biting — Treatment — Eczema — Treatment — Dis- 
eases of Nail Epidermis — Treatment. The Toe Nails — Ingrowing 
— Treatment — Special Instruments. 



CHAPTER I. 

A REVIEW OF COSMETICS. 

No age, however uncivilized or barbarous its people, 
has ever been lacking in a true appreciation of physical 
beauty of both sexes, this appreciation at times becoming 
almost a religion. When Thebes' seven gates were mod- 
ern improvements, and the pyramids yet unfinished, cos- 
metics of a comparatively high order were practiced in 
Egypt, and antecede those of any other people of whom 
we have knowledge. The early Greeks had their Aphro- 
dite, goddess of Beauty and Love, before whose altar they 
burned incense and offered prayers and sacrifices. For 
the sake of their remarkable beauty, the lack of morals in 
Sappho, Phadre, Phryne and many others was forgotten 
or condoned. Unto the Greeks, the most enlightened of 
all ancient peoples, we go for our first great Philosophers 
and Poets, Painters and Sculptors, our first great States- 
men and Warriors. The early Roman history as regards 
beauty worship is much the same as that of the Greeks. 
It would be interesting to the student of cosmetics to know 
how many fair women and brave men, when nature 
failed or grew weary, came to her assistance with skilled 
finger and quick brain. While those nations lacked the 
benefit of the scientific knowledge in the use of cosmetics 
that is ours, they accomplished wonders indeed, consider- 
ing what material they had at hand and the ages in which 
they lived, for cosmetics in their time were more primitive 
in their composition, as can be readily understood. 

In early Egyptian days, the arrangement of the hair 
among women of all classes varied only as to the orna- 
ments worn; those who could afford it wearing rich 



2 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

jewels, the less fortunate contenting themselves with sim- 
ple garlands of flowers. The style most general was the 
braided hair, hanging down either side of the face, with 
jewels or flowers entwined in the plaits; or cut to hang 
loose on the shoulders with a straight fringe across the 
brow. They frequently washed the hair in a charcoal 
solution which they believed made it much blacker than 
was its wont. 

Although the women were usually supplied with long, 
lustrous and straight, but rather coarse hair, scalp physi- 
cians, wig-makers, and hair specialists were not unknown. 
Those who were by some unkind fate reduced to wig- 
wearing or using false braids, first exhausted every other 
means of promoting hair growth. Fancy sending for your 
scalp physician and having him prescribe pulverized dog's 
foot — (dogs were plentiful in Egypt) — and date ker- 
nels, or ground donkey's tooth and wild bees honey, to be 
applied next full moon! Or if not content with this, call 
in your particular sorceress or worker of magic, and be 
told to apply a spider's web to the crown of your head for 
ten days; the sorceress or man of magic meantime to do 
the rest — this of course being shrouded in deepest mys- 
tery. All of these methods were employed. 

The women were given to the use of facial cosmetics, 
painting their lips a vivid scarlet. They were unique in 
the use of face powders, not using, as most women would, 
a white or tinted powder, but one composed of charcoal 
and antimony, outlining the brow, cheeks, and chin with 
this black composition, against which the whiteness of the 
skin stood out in startling contrast. The eyelids were 
painted with a black pigment, the line or band extending 
across the temples to the roots of the hair, and the lower 
lid being heavily outlined. The Egyptian women had 
naturally large eyes, and one can imagine the effect of 



A Review of Cosmetics. 3 

this cosmetic art which made the eyes the dominant 
feature. 

Both men and women used great quantities of oil on 
the body, no bath being complete without the final rub- 
bing in of highly scented olive oil. The men sometimes 
used the pigment for the eyes, and were not considered 
effeminate. They were equally faithful in the care of the 
hair, which growing very thick, was worn short and un- 
curled. The face was closely shaven and massaged, and 
false beards were worn. The styles of wearing the beard 
varied in shape between round, oblong, square or some- 
what rectangular ; and the beard was attached to the face 
by an adhesive gum. When the beard was full and 
covered lower cheek and jaw, it was attached by a thread 
or thin gold wire looped over the ears. The upper lip was 
always clean shaven. The men at times rivalled the 
women in their use of perfumes, pomades, and heavy 
spicy scent. They took much care of their hands and 
feet, usually abjuring any covering whatsoever for the 
latter. The finger nails were worn rather pointed, and 
stained with henna, which gave them a rich orange hue. 

Among early Romans the men wore their hair short 
— that is to the nape of the neck — and trimmed close 
over the ears. Men of all stations wore a band of cloth 
an inch and a half to two inches wide bound round the 
head and tied in a double knot at the back, the ends flowing 
free. The color of the band was usually purple, some- 
times a bright yellow. Close cropped moustaches and 
long beards were effected by older men ; while the younger 
men were invariably close shaven. Among women, blonde 
hair seemed to be the color most desired; and those not 
so blessed by nature, painted their hair a bright and glow- 
ing yellow, using for the purpose an ochre powder. This 
was carefully washed out each morning, to be again ap- 



4 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

plied in the evening. The frequent washing and conse- 
quent dampness of the hair caused it to fall, and many 
Greek and Roman women had eventually little, and in 
some instances no hair. Wigs then first came into fash- 
ion; or for those ladies to whom some small amount of 
the "crowning glory'' had been left, its length and thick- 
ness was augmented by adding false braids or puffs and 
curls. Even in that day "rats" and transformations of 
false hair were known; and we can imagine that these 
ladies moved with much caution, rather than suffer the 
embarrassment of leaving these adornments scattered in 
their wake; for the means of securing them to the head 
was not so perfected as it is today. It is stated that as 
many as five hundred curls might at times be counted on 
the head of a Roman matron. These were as a rule piled 
high and extended forward; so that viewing the lady 
from the front she looked quite tall, whereas, from the 
back, she was pigmy-like in comparison. 

The Greek women wore the hair more close, con- 
forming as nearly as possible to the natural shape of the 
head. As many of them were natural blondes, bleaching 
was not so much in evidence; but they curled and waved 
their hair, and when completed, wore a small filet cap of 
gold, silver, or silk mesh to add to the beauty of the ar- 
rangement, and at the same time secure the coiffure in 
place. The curling iron served the same purpose on the 
toilet tables of these beauty loving women of semi-civiliza- 
tion as on those of the more enlightened women of our 
own day. 

Both Greek and Roman women, as early as two 
thousand five hundred B. C., used minium (a red lead 
oxide), to paint their lips and cheeks. Large and brilliant 
eyes seem to have been a feature of great beauty in all 
ages, and for the purpose of enhancing their largeness 



A Review of Cosmetics. S 

and brilliancy a black pigment was used to outline the 
lids and lashes. 

Blue veined temples were thought most beautiful by 
Roman and Greek; and these were often faintly traced 
with blue, a tiny silk-like feather being used to delicately 
apply the color. 

Ground and powdered rice were used freely to whiten 
the face, neck, and arms, while complexion masks were 
worn, composed of a dough of almond oil and rice, or 
almond meal and olive oil. Each morning the face was 
carefully massaged in warm olive oil. Asses' milk was a 
luxury, and many wealthy women kept great herds of 
asses, that they might bathe in the warm milk each morn- 
ing. Beautiful indeed must have been the skin so care- 
fully tended, white and firm as sculptured marble and of 
a wonderfully velvet-like texture. 

Much attention was given the nails. Manicuring in- 
struments were few, and crude to our understanding; a 
small, quite sharp, rather long handled knife being used 
to cut the nail; after which it was highly polished with a 
white, clay-like substance. The cuticle was left to grow 
and adhere naturally to the base of the nail. It is not to 
be thought that the men of this time neglected to take 
advantage of these cosmetic facilities. Their hair was as 
carefully curled, pomaded and oiled as that of the ladies, 
and they wore chaplets of flowers or jewels wound round 
the forehead. Baldness was less prevalent among men 
than women, due no doubt to lives spent more in the 
open, and the less common usage of the headdress. The 
men had their war-bonnets and helmets it is true, but in- 
dulged in occasional periods of peace. They were very 
athletic, and took great care of their bodies, paying much 
attention to their feet, and carefully trimming and polish- 
ing the toe nails ; and they did not hesitate to use powder 



6 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

and rouge if the fancy so took them. Both Greeks and 
Romans usually wore the hair long, or to the shoulders; 
and the older men wore beards neatly trimmed in round, 
pointed, or square form. 

Among the Turkish women, false hair was used pro- 
fusely; and as they were not generally blessed by any 
superabundance of hair, great braids of it were attached 
to their own. Wigs covered the entire head and hung in 
yard long plaits over the shoulders, or down the back, or 
were sometimes piled high on the head. Numerous orna- 
ments were worn. Strings of beads, or coins strung into 
chains, were bound round the forehead ; bright bits of silk 
and ribbons were plaited into the braids ; and flowers and 
jewels of all sorts adorned the head. They rouged the 
face, with a much darker red for the lips; and instead of 
painting the lids black, used a very dark green pigment, 
which must have looked odd indeed, and very striking 
against their rouged faces. Like the Egyptians they used 
henna on the nails, and sometimes darkened the front 
teeth. The men were more fortunate, possessing very 
thick, straight black hair which they wore close cropped, 
and very luxuriant beards and moustaches, which they 
kept oiled in order to give it the gloss it would otherwise 
have lacked. Turbans or long straight pieces of cloth of 
bright color were worn bound round the head in graceful 
folds. 

The study of the toilets of Moorish women presents 
something of a contrast as compared to the Egyptian and 
others. ' Many historians and writers on the subject agree 
as to the wonderful beauty of these women, not always 
tall, not always slender, but ever light of foot and with 
the free grace of movement and carriage of the desert 
born. They were at their best, both men and women dur- 
ing their occupation of Spain. They neither painted nor 



A Review of Cosmetics. 7 

powdered; and glorious indeed must have been the hair 
of these amber skinned beauties — long, thick, and of a 
silky texture, with sometimes just the suggestion of wave 
or curl; usually intensely black, but sometimes a rich dark 
chestnut; and worn loose and flowing, bound only round 
the forehead with chaplets of flowers or jeweled bands. 
Beautiful indeed were their softly glowing eyes of brown, 
mystic, deep; and small, sweetly curved, gently smiling 
mouths, requiring no art to make them the rosiest lipped 
women of all nations. Regular, pearly white teeth were 
not the least of their charms. 

False hair was never worn by Moorish women, a 
superstition existing that if they attached the hair of 
another to their own, a curse would fall upon them. To 
send another a lock of hair was a token of surrender or 
submission. And a cleanly race they were, preferring 
rather to go hungry than without the daily bath. They 
were very fond of heavy perfumes. The men are de- 
scribed as darker skinned than their women ; tall and lithe 
of limb, swift moving and silent, with extremely thick 
heads of hair and long thick beards, and moustaches close 
cropped to outline the upper lip. The hair of both Moorish 
men and women was given every care, hours being spent 
in brushing and smoothing the hair of the head. The men 
would sometimes put their beards in plaits on retiring, 
either to give a slight wave or to prevent tangling. Their 
hands were extremely well kept as were also their teeth. 

It is difficult to adequately describe the women of 
early Italy. One cannot do so collectively, as each prov- 
ince had its individual costume and custom, its independ- 
ent King, Prince, or over-Lord. The united Italy we 
know, is a far cry from the Italy of the tenth century. It 
is stated, however, by many authoritative historians and 
chroniclers that the use of cosmetics was well known 



8 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

among the women of the different principalities. They 
rouged and powdered their faces, darkened their eye- 
brows, and took advantage of any new idea that was ad- 
vanced to tempt them to the further enhancement of the 
natural charms they are said to have possessed in such 
abundance. 

From what can be learned from careful research be- 
ginning with the tenth century, their hair seemed to have 
been their greatest pride, and to have received every care 
and attention in keeping with the cosmetic knowledge they 
possessed at this early age. 

The arrangement most favored was that of parting 
the hair in the middle, brushing it back from the temples, 
and confining it at the nape of the neck with a jeweled 
brooch, or one of plain gold; or oftentimes with a ribbon 
of bright silk. From the nape of the neck it was allowed 
to flow free its entire length. A few curls were left to 
cluster naturally over the forehead and ears, and bands 
or chaplets of jewels and flowers were placed above these, 
encircling the head. Graceful and artistic if the lady had 
sufficient hair, but if she had not, then false hair was re- 
sorted to, and another style of arrangement came to her 
assistance. The artificial hair was arranged in plaits or 
braids, and wrapped closely around the head over her own 
scant locks, a fillet of gold or lace mesh was placed upon 
the completed coiffure, and with the addition of a rose 
coquettishly placed, she felt safe from discovery of the 
practiced deception. 

A period of neglect as regards these so-called van- 
ities, ensued as a result of the ravages of the plague in 
the fourteenth century. The clergy vigorously condemned 
all personal adornment, and the people were in a state of 
terror and fear. The priests declared the plague a judg- 
ment of God, visited upon them for their worldly vanities. 



A Review of Cosmetics. 9 

However, in a few years, the pride of the Italian 
women reasserted itself, and we are able once more to 
find them in all their sumptuous beauty, both God-given 
and acquired. During the life of Titian, 1477-1576, 
blonde hair was again the fashion. This wonderful artist, 
whose fame will last as long as time, chose for his models 
women with red, red blonde, or golden blonde hair. Con- 
sequently the Venetian women made every effort to secure 
unto themselves this coveted shade of hair. They were 
long-suffering and patient, undergoing tortures in the 
cause, and the blonde hair vogue eventually spread to 
Milan, Naples, Florence, and throughout Southern Italy. 

The method of bleaching was simple but required 
fortitude and courage. In many dwellings in southern 
Italy the roofs of the houses were used to a greater or 
less extent as sun parlors; and if not the roofs, then un- 
roofed enclosures wherein the sun shone brightly. The 
determined lady would sit for hours during many con- 
secutive days on the roof or in the enclosure, saturating 
her hair in a solution of soda and water, salt and water, 
or saffron solution, whichever she deemed most effica- 
cious; letting it dry and immediately saturating it again 
until the desired shade was obtained. During this period 
of "Titianizing", Milady was not visible to callers. 

And so it continues with little change, albeit a more 
marked individuality in costume. The women of United 
Italy of today are much the same as their sisters the 
world over, more or less slaves to the prevailing fashions. 

However, for freakishness in cosmetics and fashions 
of coiffure, one must look to the early English men and 
women. They borrowed fads and fashions, willy-nilly 
from all nations and all races during a period of eight 
hundred years. Commencing with the tenth century on 
through many successive reigns, one gets a kaleidoscopic 



10 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

view of the hundred and one fashions that flit back and 
forth through the pages of history. Each succeeding king 
or queen brought with them their different style, which 
lived its short day and was replaced by another. 

The early Norman women remained faithful to their 
wimple, (an arrangement resembling a nun's coif) for 
more than a century, the longest period known for any 
one fashion. Under this confining band of white linen, 
the hair was coiled and tucked and pinned until the only 
remaining evidence of hair would be a rebellious lock or 
two, which would escape upon the forehead. 

Despite constant warfare the men found some time 
to devote to their beards and hair. If the women looked 
odd in wimples, how much more so did the men look with 
the backs of their heads clean shaven ! William the First 
brought this fashion into England, but it was short lived, 
and happily so, as it had nought of grace or beauty to 
commend it. 

Close in the wake of the shaved heads, followed the 
fashion of many ringlets and long flowing beards and 
moustaches; the former, at times, reaching below the 
waist. 

Much washing, combing, brushing and pomading 
was indulged in by the men, and the use of highly per- 
fumed pomades finally won for them from the clergy the 
contemptuous term of "scented goats". However, as a 
result of this careful attention to hygiene, the hair soon 
grew long and of a much finer texture. And finally, the 
Norman gentlewoman shocks and astounds her lord by 
appearing before him wimple-less. The first brave lady 
must have been happy in possessing an ample quantity of 
hair; and a very pardonable vanity will suffice as an ex- 
planation for a revolt from a most unbecoming fashion, 
a century old. One can imagine the change being a most 



A Review of Cosmetics. 11 

satisfactory one; and while bidding a willing adieu to the 
wimple, welcome the new fashion of the hair hanging in 
long braids, on each side of the lady's head, giving to the 
face a softer and more womanly contour. Later, after 
the disappearance of the wimple, when the ladies dis- 
covered their locks to be scanty, what more natural than 
they should supply the want by adding false braids? 
these false braids, or casings, falling in many instances 
to below the knees. As with the men, the change neces- 
sitated greater attention to the care of the hair, which 
eventually caused it to grow long and soft and very thick. 

A few years pass and we find the men wearing their 
hair brushed back from the face, parted carefully in the 
center, and one thick lock brought forward from the 
crown of the head to fall over the dividing line so that its 
free end lay lightly on the forehead. Some wore beards 
and moustaches, and others went clean shaven. At times 
it would seem the men grew tired of the careful groom- 
ing; and we see the hair worn close cropped and the faces 
clean shaven. 

Again the wimple appears with its stiff ungraceful 
folds, and women's chief adornment is sacrified to the 
ruling of custom; nor does it again make its appearance 
for a century and a quarter. The only difference from 
the old style wimple being that the hair flowed loose under 
the long concealing folds. 

For a time men followed their own individual fancy, 
and many were the modes of hair dressing to be seen, 
Some wore the hair long and many affected flowing ring- 
lets with moustaches and beards. Others wore the hair 
close cropped and their faces smooth shaven. 

It is well to note here that in all the years covering 
the reign of many kings, head coverings were rarely worn 



12 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

by the men ; and to this, no doubt, the thickness and gen- 
eral good condition of their hair was due. 

From many well preserved plates and cuts of this 
time, one finds no change has taken place in women's 
costume. The eternal wimple and the long straight robe 
seem to be the universal fashion. A few kings have come, 
ruled for a little space, and left their mark on history's 
pages, to be succeeded by another who in turn did his best 
— or worst. And, we find the ladies rouging, for almost 
the first time in English history. First but faintly touch- 
ing the lips; only to realize the beautifying possibilities, 
and then beginning to paint the cheeks, and to powder 
their faces, and even to darken their eye brows and lashes, 
for one cosmetic would seemingly call for another. This 
rouging, possibly, was a revival of a custom once common 
among the early Britons, who painted their faces, arms, 
necks and chests with wode, (a substance derived from 
the blue wode flower), or sometimes with safTron. Or, 
it may have reached them, tardily to be sure, from the 
Egyptians, Greeks, or Romans, who had known of it for 
centuries. 

One sees in this first use of cosmetics by the ladies of 
this time, a forerunner of many changes that are to fol- 
low. Give the ladies a rouge pot and a powder puff and 
we will soon learn that the day of simplicity has reached 
its gloaming. For milady, to be in keeping with tinted 
lip and blooming cheek must necessarily adopt many other 
odd and sometimes ridiculous fancies. Women are rarely 
content to accept half measures. 

There is also a noteworthy change in women's coif- 
fure. The Queen wore her hair most elaborately coiffured 
at all times, and her favorite arrangement was to part the 
hair in the middle, brush it forward on each side of the 
face, and push it, (unplaited) into two cases, circular 



A Review of Cosmetics. 13 

in shape, bound to the head by a fillet of gold. These 
cases were of gold fret work, ornamented with precious 
or semi-precious stones, and were very costly. 

Again the hair was loosely coiled and placed in a bag 
of gold wire and jewel work; or sometimes in two plaits 
or braids, arranged on each side of the face and held in 
place by a fillet. Sometimes the plaits folded straight 
down from the parting in the center, over the ears; and 
a small cap of gold wire was placed at the back of the 
head. If the hair was allowed to flow loose, a wimple was 
worn. Just as one is prepared to breathe a sign of relief, 
it is abruptly checked as Madame Wimple is announced. 
One could easily imagine these ungainly headdresses in- 
fluencing English politics. Kings come and kings go for 
some quarter of a century; and we again bow Madam 
Wimple out, and yellow hair again is much in favor. 

The Roman women adopted it from the early Teu- 
tonic natural blonde, and the English women in turn 
found it equally irresistible. Bleaching with saffron and 
quince juice was resorted to in order to obtain the chosen 
color, blondes being in the minority. However, one is 
pleased to learn that the ladies had still some hair left on 
which to work this chemical change. 

The now reigning king is a leader of fashion. (When 
has a king not perforce been so?) 

But this one was lenient with his subjects in the way 
of fashions, fads and preferences, and every form of 
moustache and beard was worn. The hair was worn long, 
touching the shoulders, gracefully curled and pressed at 
the ends. A band of real or artificial flowers graced the 
heads of the beaux. Hoods or "chaperons" were worn, 
tied about the head with a liripipe, a long strip of material 
corresponding to that of the hood and attached to the 
crown or top of the hood ; and this strip was at times two 



14 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

or three feet in length, with the ends wrapped around the 
neck. Later, when unwound, this unique affair reached 
the ground. Sometimes it was swathed about the head 
turban fashion, the free short end slipped through a fold 
and left to stand out like a cockscomb. We still see what 
remains of the liripipe worn as a cockade by footmen and 
coachmen. 

Women have ever been ruled by fashion, and in this 
reign were slaves to it. Is it not difficult to imagine a 
fashion which decreed the plucking out of eyebrows, and 
shaving the back of the head? But that this fashion was 
submitted to by the majority of the fashionable women 
of this reign, is vouched for by many historians and 
writers on costume and custom of the English. There is 
no other feature that lends so much to facial expression, 
and softens the contour of the face, and is such a neces- 
sary complement of the eyes and nose, as the eyebrow; 
and yet these were unhesitatingly sacrificed that Milady 
might not be a second behind her sister in keeping pace 
with the so-called smart fashions of the day. And those 
dainty curling tendrils that snuggle so softly at the nape 
of the neck — they too went the way of the eyebrow. 

The hair was dressed in tight plaits and twined round 
the head, over which a caul (a bag of gold net and jewels) 
was worn. This left the back of the head bare, from 
which all hair that might be exposed was carefully plucked 
or shaven. The more sensible women wore the hair long 
and softly waved or curled, and hanging freely on the 
shoulders. The brow was encircled by a chaplet of flow- 
ers or (an idea adopted from the Greeks) a plain circlet 
of gold was substituted for the flowers. The ladies also 
wore the hood or chaperon, with the liripipe for out of 
doors. 

As we move further along in the hair history of the 






A Review of Cosmetics. 15 

English, we find them at times, (according to our own idea 
of the fitness of things) really sensible. The men are 
now wearing the hair much in the style of our own present 
day, close cropped and brushed back from the forehead, 
or curled and worn to the nape of the neck. 

The beards were dressed in one long point, or parted 
in the median line of the chin and arranged in two sharp 
points. Many faces unadorned by moustache or beard, 
might be found in any assembly. 

The court ladies enjoyed equal freedom as to head- 
dress. One would have her hair covered with a caul of 
gold wire or cloth of gold, with perhaps a few ringlets 
lying on the forehead. Many wore the hair cut short, 
with a profusion of curls and ringlets simply confined 
about the forehead with a circlet of gold. 

With the cheeks and lips tinted, and faint blue cos- 
metic shadows on the eyelids, one can appreciate that this 
fashion was attractive and suitable to many faces. 

Henry the Fifth introduced the fashion of wearing 
the hair shaved for an inch or so above the ears, and en- 
circling the head, the remaining hair very close cropped 
in a fashion resembling a priest but without the tonsure. 
Naturally with this style of hair cutting one finds the 
clean shaven chin and upper lip. As there is nothing new 
under the sun, it would be difficult to trace this fashion 
to its real source. 

The pen fails one in any attempted description of 
fashions for women of the fifteenth century. Good taste 
is banished in their defiance of former restrictions. 

There is absolutely no hint of hair, not even one little 
rebellious tendril; all are laboriously tucked, folded and 
pinned away under headdresses of every conceivable 
shape. 

As we proceed, many strange sights are presented. 






16 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

From William the First to Henry the Eighth, fashion is 
like a swiftly moving shuttlecock. There are few re- 
markable changes, it is true, but they are confusing in 
that they flit back and forth with such frequency. 

With the advent of Edward the Fourth the priestly 
fashion of wearing the hair went out, and roundelet hats 
and caps came in; and with this fashion of hat, came 
again the long hair, worn much in the manner of our own 
little folk, the familiar "Buster Brown" or Dutch cut with 
a deep straight fringe on the forehead. Those, whom we 
would designate as beaux or dandies, wore the hair much 
longer and brushed out in a "bushy" effect in the back; 
clean shaven faces were the hard and fast rule. 

One may have all the reverence and respect necessary 
for one's ancestors and yet not be blind to their faults 
and foibles. In Richard the Third's reign fashion is ex- 
tremely quiet, going about on tip toe as it were and speak- 
ing in undertones. The headsman was fully occupied with 
his affairs, and the thoughts of men and women alike 
dwelt less on fashion and more on the condition of their 
souls. Men were content to wear their hair dressed sim- 
ply. There was little pomading and perfuming of locks 
at this period. The fashion was for long straight hair 
and small black stiff brimmed velvet hats or caps. Clean 
shaven faces were universal. The reign is marked by the 
passing of the wimple, gorget, hennin, caul, and other 
ungraceful headgear of linen, silk, buckram and tow pad- 
ding; and by the birth of the bonnet. 

The hair was brushed back smoothly from the fore- 
head and fastened securely in a coil at the back of the 
head. All the hair was plucked from the forehead and 
eyebrows, and a tube shaped bonnet was placed at the 
back of the head, over the coil of hair and supported by it. 
Two wings of transparent linen stitched on wires to form 



A Review of Cosmetics. 17 

a V shape (the point on the forehead) were fastened over 
the top of the head by a linen fillet. Lower down, just 
above the ears, were two other wings in addition to the 
V, thus giving the lady's head the appearance of a great 
gauzy winged butterfly. This is the only picture to be 
given of this strange bonnet, without the aid of a draw- 
ing. The bonnet was in favor for some time, but event- 
ually went the way of all headdress. In the succeeding 
reign it was supplanted by another and yet more fanciful 
head piece. 

The hair is now parted in the center and brushed 
smooth on each side, and exposed almost to the crown of 
the head. Over this and falling down the back is a head- 
dress of black silk, the top stiffened to resemble a sloping 
houseroof, the front edges lying at each side of the face 
and sewn with pearls or banded with color. Young women 
were allowed to wear their hair long and flowing naturally 
over the shoulders and down the back. 

Another style of headdress was the loose topped bag- 
like turban, gathered onto a jeweled band, which fitted 
closely to the forehead. 

Master of many vanities, with an educated taste in 
wives, possessing much personal charm but little king- 
craft, was Henry the Eighth — Henry of the curled hair 
and full fine beard and moustache. However, he de- 
manded that no one fashion of beards and hair dressing 
be the rule. The hair was worn long or short, and there 
were many styles of beard and moustache, but clean 
shaven faces were frequently seen. 

Any attempted description of the many headdresses 
for ladies of this period would be but a repetition of those 
already given as pertaining to the previous reign. One, 
however, adopted from the Germans, may be mentioned 
as new. The hair was braided and twisted and tortured, 



18 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

and so forced into a stiff gold wire net or draped into a 
velvet bag or pouch; and when so arranged it stuck out 
most ungracefully in a great bun or knot on the back, or 
at the side in unsightly eminence. Over all this was worn 
a small crowned hat, with a rather wide upturned brim, 
having many jewels and feathers attached at an angle. 
Thus was woman's greatest charm twisted, tortured and 
tucked away for many years. One wonders they were not 
all bald as a result of this unhygienic treatment. 

When Mary, Queen of the Scots, entered London in 
1553, she found the streets filled with foreigners, come 
over with Phillip. And with these, of course, many (to 
the Londoner) new and strange fashions, which later had 
their effect on the court dress. Moustaches and beards 
were very fashionable, especially short, close cropped, 
round beards, or beards trimmed in two points, with waxed 
and pointed moustaches. The hair was worn short, much 
the same as it is today. 

The ladies show more of their hair, of which little 
has been seen since the reign of Henry the First in the 
eleventh century. Although they still cling to the bonnet, 
but without the side band or fillets. 

The Elizabethan figure is familiar to the reader, no 
doubt ; but as there are ever a few oddities, which, if not 
given particular notice, would be overlooked, it is best to 
mention some of the more interesting. Elizabeth was 
ever fond of display and fine dress, and many were the 
ringletted, pomaded and perfumed dandies to be met with 
at her court. The court gentleman, as a rule, wore a 
small moustache, and a pointed beard; and one great egg 
shaped pearl would sometimes be seen dangling from the 
left ear. One could find by looking close a faint trace of 
rouge on the gentleman's cheek. Another would wear his 
hair cut in three points, one over each ear ; the third curled 



A Review of Cosmetics. 19 

into a lock, tied with a dull hued ribbon, and falling on the 
center of the forehead. He, too, is furnished with a 
moustache, and small round beard. 

The ladies took a fancy for the wire head frame 
over which the hair was dressed, false hair, and bleached 
hair and wigs of every description ; all dressed with feath- 
ers, gold wings, strings of pearls, and ornaments of glass. 

Elizabeth had a decided penchant for red hair and 
was never seen without a wig of this color. (We have 
reason to believe her Majesty's own locks were but scant 
and of no positive shade). No doubt what beauty the 
"Virgin Queen" possessed, depended largely on red wigs 
and cosmetics. 

Her chemist was most skilled in the making of face 
powders and rouges. It is said when Elizabeth's face was 
made up with these cosmetics it closely resembled a mask. 
Her wigs were arranged in tight red curls, with an over- 
dress of many pearls and jewelled ornaments. One is sur- 
prised to learn that a street known throughout the civilized 
world, derived its name from a wig made by Higgins, 
(the fashionable wig maker of the period) which he called 
the Piccadillie. Thus do we get Piccadilly. But he, poor 
man, was gathered to his fathers too early to benefit from 
the honor bestowed on him by his famous patroness. 

We are now at the period in which Vandyke won 
everlasting fame. He has left us, through the agency of 
his facile brush, many portraits and paintings of the men 
and women of his day; a day of much beauty and art in 
costuming and grace of movement, for much of the stiff- 
ness of the former reigns has vanished. 

The long flowing hair of the men would seem to have 
curled naturally, so carefully and with such consummate 
skill was the curling done over heated clay pipes. We of 
today are familiar with the Vandyke beard. The mous- 



20 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

tache was parted in the center and brushed smoothly to- 
ward the outer corners of the upper lip ; and then waxed 
to a sharp point, to be in keeping with the beard. Some- 
times the hair had a tousled appearance, but it was the 
tousledness of artistic fingers. At no previous period 
was so much time and attention given to the care of the 
hair and beard. Each day brought a careful and thorough 
brushing and combing, followed by a rubbing in of highly 
perfumed oil, which gave the hair and beard a beautiful 
lustre. 

Beauty patches came into fashion with Charles First, 
and were of many shapes. Women have always shown 
much fondness for these quaint little patches symbolical 
in so many ways. 

There was a patch language not to be equalled by the 
flower language or that of the fan and kerchief. 

The ladies now part the hair above each ear, and it 
is gently waved to fall over the ears. The portion on top 
is brushed smoothly back from the brow, to be rolled in 
with the back hair and pinned in a roll at the back of the 
neck, where a plume is placed standing upright or at an 
angle on either side. 

The hair, at this time, demanded much attention, and 
hair tonics were used freely. The centuries of close wim- 
ples and tight airless headdresses had so smothered the 
hair, that little vitally was left. The women had just 
begun to realize the havoc these monstrous affairs had 
wrought on their hair and to look about them for rem- 
edies. 

When the softly curling tendrils on the forehead, 
and the love locks, came into fashion, the ladies were 
forced to consult with wig makers and hair dyers. How- 
ever, whether artificial or natural, we are grateful for 
the change. The hairdresser of this time was a personage 



A Review of Cosmetics. 21 

one could not afford to reckon without — and with good 
cause. He did much to make women more pleasant to 
look upon. 

With the Cromwells came sombre changes, and 
carefully dressed hair; long flowing locks, ringlets and 
love locks, were all religiously tucked away under severe 
hats for the men, and close fitting caps for the women. 
Eleven years of tonsorial restriction endured, with the 
result that many snug sums were laid by which were later 
to be dissipated at the court of Charles the Second. 

And with the coming of Charles, Milord and his lady 
once more breathed freely, and laid in a supply of wigs, 
ringlets, hair oils and pomades. The shadow had passed, 
and if not forgotten, was placed in the background. Wig 
makers, hairdressers, and hair dyers hold the foreground, 
bestirring themselves on behalf of their patrons and for a 
time there is little rest. The perfumer, the powder and 
rouge chemists, are seeking material far and wide; and 
everyone is offering incense on the altar of fashion. Peri- 
wigs, those beautiful affairs of false hair, all curled, 
waved and ringleted, falling to the gentleman's waist in 
the back, and far down over the ears, were so carefully 
dressed, they became at once the pride and despair of the 
serving men, or valets. 

There is a small moustache and small beard that as 
yet lay but as a shadow on the underlip. Many odd fan- 
cies, fripperies and vanities go to the making of a gen- 
tleman of the court of Charles the Second. 

The ladies have laid aside the stiff headdress with 
which we are familiar and the hair is now worn in a mass 
of huge curls dressed over a frame by the ears, with short, 
cunningly arranged, little love locks on the forehead. The 
back hair is done into an intricate knot of many loops, 



22 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

waves and twists. The lady, too, wears a beplumed hat 
the exact counterpart of her brothers. 

The more fanciful lady wears her hair down, so that 
the ends fall on the shoulders and has it curled all over in 
loose ringlets, and wears a round velvet cap. Beauty 
patches, powder, rouge, and no waist to speak of, so small 
has it become, complete the most chic beauty of the age. 

To be without a periwig, peruke, campaign wig, pole 
lock, or dildos, during and after the reign of William and 
Mary, was paramount to being undressed, so necessary a 
part of the costume had these many articles, composed of 
false or artificial hair, become. It is difficult to call 
to memory any one part of dress which received so much 
care and attention; and one can readily believe that, if a 
choice were to have been made between wigs and shoes, 
one could have seen many barefooted men and women. A 
fine wig was the aim and ambition of one and all. William 
and Mary ruled England, but the wigmaker ruled king, 
queen, and peasant alike, and was the one great leveler. 

Heretofore, the poorer classes had evinced a stoical 
indifference to fashion, but with the arrival of the wig- 
maker the old order changed, and one touch of wig magic 
made all men kin — at least in their desire for possession. 
Many pen pictures might be drawn, and no one resemble 
another. There are wigs in a riot of curls, with ringlets 
over the shoulders and down the back. The brown wig, 
unpowdered, was worn by the unassuming gentleman (if 
one such could be said to have existed at this period). 
Many wigs were powdered with meal and flour — this 
was before the hair powder had been discovered in the 
gray mud of a certain road, (which after being dried and 
pulverized became a snow white). Gentlemen were fre- 
quently to be seen at public functions combing and brush- 
ing their periwigs and incidentally showering their neigh- 



A Review of Cosmetics. 23 

bors with a cloud of white powder; who in their turn 
could take consolation in being able to pay the debt in 
kind, if it so pleased them. 

For riding there was a special kind of periwig, less 
curled. For traveling, a campaign wig with dildos; such 
wig being full over the ears and upper side of the fore- 
head, without the two wing shaped curls, usually dressed 
in single pipes, and hanging down over the shoulders in 
front. This ended in a single pipe in the back, tied by a 
ribbon, and was sometimes called bob wig. Moustaches 
and beards had for the time disappeared, and only smooth 
shaven faces were to be seen. 

In comparison with the men, the ladies were sim- 
ply dressed. There were, of course, the beauty patches, 
much powder, and more paint. Every gentlewoman had 
her own book of prescriptions from which her chemist 
compounded face powders, lip salves, rouge, cold creams, 
pomades, and hair bleaches, hair stains and hair powders 
of the time. 

We must now examine the "conmode". This was a 
wire frame, thin at each end, and thick in the middle, so 
that it was half moon shape. Over this the ladies ar- 
ranged their hair in many curls, piled high on the fore- 
head. Above this was a "fontage", an affair composed 
of alternating rows of lace and ribbon stitched one above 
the other ; or a thin stuff wired until it perched from twelve 
to eighteen inches above the forehead. (The fontage, or 
tower, was first worn by Mile. Fontage at the court of 
Louis the Sixteenth of France). The side and back hair 
was made into long curls and allowed to flow unwound 
down the back and over the shoulders; beside the curls 
and waves covering the "conmode", there were many tiny 
curls lying in a flat row on the forehead. These were 



24 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

called "creve-coeurs". Later on in this reign, the ladies 
copy the men and wear the hair in bob wigs. 

Wig wearing continues through the reign of Queen 
Anne and until that of George the Fourth, 1820-1830, but 
with some changes. They were now worn long and flow- 
ing, much curled, parted evenly down the center, falling 
to each side of the face, and powdered with brown or 
white powder. 

It was not unusual to find a gentleman sitting in 
dressing gown and slippers, while the wigs are removed 
from their roulettes, (a large round box used for the pur- 
pose) and displayed for his choice or approval. The 
"peruquier" or hairdresser removes the warm clay pipes, 
or tubes, over which the hair has been wrapped for curl- 
ing, and places the wig carefully, but securely on the gen- 
tleman's head, with a pat here and there to the pipes to 
adjust them properly. Now the gentleman puts his face 
in a round glass bowl while the peruquier tosses white 
powder freely over the wig. If a long queue falls down 
the back of the wig, (called the Ramillie's wig), a bow 
is tied to the end and the worst is over. At times the wig 
is a short black periwig in bobs — gathered in bunches on 
the shoulders and tied in a little bob at the back of the 
neck. 

George the First is on the throne, the periwig is 
singing its swan song, and the beautiful snow white wig 
looped and curled, is the fashion. There are wigs in three 
divisions of loops in the back. Wigs in long queues ; wigs 
in back and side bobs. In fact, a perfect garden of wigs, 
and everywhere clean shaven faces, just beginning to 
assume the pink hue of health after so many years of con- 
cealing beards, the shaving of which at first gave a rather 
pallid look to the face. With the universal wearing of 
white wigs, one sees a marvelous softening of the facial 



A Review of Cosmetics. 25 

expression, a general appearance of youth, and an unusual 
brightness of the eyes due to the softly curled pure white 
wig. One observes the same softening of the face in all 
white-haired people, if the hair is kept in the perfect con- 
dition that all white hair demands. 

In George the Second's reign, there flourished in 
London a wig lottery, tickets selling at a six pence. Griz- 
zle Majors, an ordinary wig, sold at twenty-five shillings; 
Great Tyes at a guinea; brown bag wigs at fifteen shill- 
ings; and if one were lucky and won a lottery, it was in- 
deed money saved. And wigs passed from father to son, 
and the inheritance was welcomed. Sometimes they 
reached the second hand shop, and after a thorough over- 
hauling, were again placed in the market. There were 
Count Saxe wigs, pigeon wing wigs, cut bobs, wigs called 
the "Negligent", drop wigs, and bag wigs. The pen does 
net suffice, and word portraiture fails, though one may do 
one's best. 

The ladies painted, patched, powdered and perfumed 
— and let it be added, the same applied to the gentlemen. 
A list of cosmetic adjuncts will not be out of place, and 
there was a wide field to choose from. Chief of all were 
musk, bergamot, Eau de Chipre, Eau de Luce or Lux, 
Sans Pariel, citron juice, a vermilion hued pigment for 
lips and cheeks ; and a stick of black pigment for the eyes 
and lashes. Scant locks presented no difficulty to the 
ladies of this period, as one could purchase any quantity 
desired from the wig maker. 

During the reign of George the Third, a period of 
sixty years, the wig still flourished, not quite so long or 
full, but conforming more to the natural shape of the head. 

After 1795 there are but few examples of the pow- 
dered hair for the men, and there is a great change in 
fashions for women. The enormous wig arrives many 



26 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

stories high, masses of meal and flax and stuffing, pow- 
der and pomatum, which required three hours in the dress- 
ing. Evil smelling masses whereby the ladies preference 
for the navy, gardening, or the sports, was evinced. One 
balances a ship of straw on the pinnacle of this towering 
headdress, another a coach, or a flower garden in full 
bloom. If the lady was fastidious she had her head done 
every three weeks; andrescenting became a necessity, not 
a preference. Monstrous piles of horse hair, hemp, wool, 
and powder made into a paste composed these odoriferous 
monuments to fashion; the cleaning of which is best not 
given in detail. 

It would seem that for all our vaunted courage and 
individuality, we are but slaves to our neighbor's opinion. 
We are afraid not to be in the fashion, even if our good 
taste and judgment warns us that a certain style is ridicu- 
lous and unbecoming. With a sigh of resignation we 
submit our poor bodies to its rule, only to discover on the 
morrow that it is no longer "good form" or "smart". 
Indeed, there should be a law against such slavery; and 
some fine day one of our fair sex, with the necessary 
militant courage, is going to devote her brain and the 
necessary time to the forming of a universal costume for 
women, that will spell comfort, good taste and smartness 
combined. 

England owes much to Beau Brummel for having 
invented modern masculine attire. Always spotlessly 
clean, never overdressed or in brilliant colors, but always 
in perfectly good taste, the daily bath was a religion with 
him. One whose daily companionship with a foppish 
king did not rob him of his individuality, he will live long 
in the memory of Englishmen for his cleanliness and wit. 

American fashions in coiffure varied little from the 
English, the early colonist being dependent upon France 



A Review of Cosmetics. 27 

and England for new fashions and fripperies. However, 
the Puritan parsons played a large part in deciding what 
should or should not be worn. And how they did preach 
and rave and wrangle at women (and sometimes men) 
for their innocent vanities! Any evidence of the posses- 
sion of hair by the women was particularly railed at, till 
one would think some error had been made in not having 
created them bald, and fitted with an enormous cap, hood 
or wimple. The maids and matrons promised to forego 
the luxury of visible hair; but human flesh is weak, and 
we fear the promises were broken almost before the words 
were cold. 

Many Puritan magistrates of the time are pictured 
with long flowing, curled, but unpowdered wigs, and well- 
cared for moustaches and imperials or small beards. 
Pomades for the dressing of these were an article to be 
found with every gentleman's toilet accessories. Of the 
ladies it can only be said of them they did their best ; and 
the best of some was fine and beautiful, indeed. Many 
of them were artfully and artistically familiar with the 
rouge and powder puff. The crisping pin and curling 
tongs were used, openly or secretly by many Puritan 
gentlewomen. However, had they heeded the gospel, as 
propounded in the pulpit by the parsons of the day, they 
would have had no hair to crisp or curl. 

It is difficult for the women of today to understand 
why there was such wrangling over women's principal 
adornment — the hair. It would seem to us quite simply 
arranged, before the powdered wig for women became 
fashionable. There was no one fashion. For the most 
part the hair was parted in the center of the forehead and 
waved or curled lightly and brushed back; where it was 
coiled and pinned at the nape of the neck, or brushed up 
and pinned on the top of the head. Occasionally, a small 



28 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

bunch of curls or ringlets were tied just above the ears 
and stood out a little from the face, with a few loose curls 
on the forehead. Another fashion was to part the hair 
across the head from ear to ear, and cut it rather short to 
form a fringe or "bang" (to use the American word). 
Curled false hair was worn by some in the form of a 
peruke, instead of the natural hair tied above the ears. 
These so-called "perukes" were formed over rolls, with a 
bunch of false curls spread over it and standing out at an 
angle on each side of the face. The balance of the hair 
was brushed back and done in a roll at the back of the 
head. Many women wore the fringe or "bang" uncurled. 

Then followed a period of periwigs for the ladies, (as 
yet not alarming in dimensions) beautifully curled and 
powdered. The Virginian gentlewoman, like her Puritan 
sisters, at first wore her hair quite as simply dressed, tho 
pomades were much used. Later she appears powder- 
ing the natural hair. We can understand what a labor 
of shampooing followed; so nothing was more natural 
than the idea of wearing wigs, (the men had worn them 
for a long time), all powdered and curled and ready to 
slip on over their own closely confined hair. Then fol- 
lowed a period of pomading and powdering, strange to 
behold. Many colored powders were used, black, orange, 
and for a time even blue ; white was, of course, the most 
popular. And when was a powdered wig complete with- 
out its accompaniment of beauty patch ? With a touch of 
rouge to cheek, lips and chin, the brows and lashes ac- 
centuated by faint outlining with black eyebrow pencil, 
what more dainty, sweet and womanly? With that true 
womanliness no vanity of fashion, paint, powder or 
curled wig could destroy. But who is not familiar with 
the far famed "Colonial Dame" — what pictures they were 






A Review of Cosmetics. 29 



and are still — to stir our hearts to memories of old days, 
old ways, lavendar scented, simple, and in many ways best ! 

Yet there came a day when this quaint simplicity was 
sadly changed. Their wigs underwent a startling trans- 
formation and appeared as towers, or one might say, pil- 
lows. Everything was used in their construction, and they 
were stuffed out and up over the lady's head a foot or 
more. They reached their zenith, slowly subsided, and 
disappeared, let us hope, forever. 

Among the younger men of Colonial times, wig wear- 
ing was not usual ; they as a rule wearing their own hair, 
long and curled. As they grew older they shaved their 
heads close and wore the full wig, waved and curled and 
heavily powdered with white powder. 

So we bid adieu to freakish fashion in hair and 
headdress. The dear ladies and gentlemen who wore them 
— God bless them ! for with all their whims and fancies, 
they yet found time to be true men and women, tender 
wives and loyal husbands, whether in wimple, hennin or 
caul, periwig, bob wig, white, powdered or natural hair. 
The paint patches and powder did not smother the good- 
ness of their hearts or stain their honor. Had we lived 
in their day, being no stronger than the strongest, we 
would have painted, powdered and bewigged ourselves as 
they did. Deny it who can. 

In conclusion, one is led to speculate on the far famed 
beauty of ancient women, and from what can be gleaned 
concerning their free use of cosmetics, we wonder how 
much was real and how much acquired. That there were 
really beautiful women we of course realize. Time and 
tradition has drawn a veil over this question, and we 
should perhaps hesitate before placing a desecrating hand 
of removal upon it. But to the seeker after truth naught 
but truth will suffice; and we know, no matter what the 



30 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

natural charm of women may be, they are quite willing to 
enhance it, if this can be accomplished without injury. 
That is the difficulty — trying to determine just wherein 
the injury may lie. 

Until the subject of cosmetics is perused and accepted 
along educational lines, just so long will this danger sur- 
vive. Cosmetics always have been and always will be 
used — then why not intelligently? 



CHAPTER II. 

ANATOMY OF THE SCALP AND HAIR. 

The Hair and the Nails are appendages of the 
skin, and in order to thoroughly understand their struc- 
ture some knowledge of the anatomy of the latter organ 
is essential. 

The Skin consists of two parts: an outer, super- 
ficial, epithelial layer, known as the Epidermis or Cuticle, 
or the false skin ; and a second, deeper layer, known as the 
Corneum or Cutis Vera — sometimes called the true skin. 
Beneath the true skin is a layer of subcutaneous tis- 
sue of considerable thickness which forms a loose attach- 
ment between the skin and the under-lying structures. 
The skin varies in thickness on different parts of the 
body, being thicker on the back of the head, the neck, and 
the trunk, than on the front of the body; and thicker on 
the outer side of the limbs than on the inner side. 

The Epidermis or false skin serves as a protective 
layer to the under-lying, sensitive true skin. It varies in 
thickness in different regions of the body, being very thin 
in some places as on the eyelids, and very thick on other 
parts of the body as the palms of the hands and soles of 
the feet. The fully developed epidermis consists of four 
layers : first, the Stratum Corneum or outside layer, which 
is composed of thin, flattened, horny scales; second, the 
Stratum Lucidum, which appears as a thin, poorly defined 
layer, the cells being horny-like in structure, and slightly 
transparent; third, the Stratum Granulosum, a thin layer 
of cells having a granular appearance and containing 

(31) 



32 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

granules of Eleidin; fourth, the Malpigian Layer, which 
is composed of two kinds of cells. The outer cells of this 
layer are many sided in form, and have delicate projecting 
spines resembling prickle-cells. The other cells, found 
next the true skin, are columnar in character. The pig- 
ment granules which give the color to the skin, while 
distributed widely throughout the epidermis, are found 
principally in the deep cells of the Malpigian layer; and 
to the presence of a large quantity of this pigment is due 
the dark color of the skin of the negro. 

The True Skin consists of two layers: first, an 
outer, dense layer known as the Papillary Layer, which is 
covered with small papillae, or projections forming the 
principal organs of the sense of touch; second, an Inner 
Reticular Layer, which is looser in structure and made up 
of coarser bundles of tissue. There is no well defined line 
of demarcation between these two layers, the papillary 
layer blending with the reticular, while the latter blends 
gradually into the under-lying tissue. 

The Scalp is that portion of the skin which covers 
the top, back, and sides of the head above and behind the 
ears. The skin of the scalp is usually thicker than the 
skin on any other part of the body, and contains a large 
number of hair follicles in which are implanted an 
abundant growth of hair. The area of the average adult 
scalp is one hundred and twenty square inches, and the 
average number of hairs to the square inch is estimated 
at one thousand; the number of hairs varying however 
with their color and location, as well as with the age and 
sex of the individual. Light blonde hair is the finest, and 
a shade of dark red hair the coarsest, of the hairs of the 
scalp, and scalp hair is finer in texture than the hair on 
the face. The scalp is composed of the skin, the sweat 



PLATE I. 

LONGITUDINAL MEDIAN SECTION OF HAIR SHAFT, 
BULB, AND FOLLICLE. 

HAIR FOLLICLE. 

a. Outer coat, showing longitudinal fibers. 

b. Middle coat, transverse fibers. 

c. Inner coat. 

d. Prickle cell layer. 

ROOT-SHEATH. 

e. Outer layer of the root-sheath. 

f. Inner layer of root-sheath. 

g. Cuticle of root-sheath. 

HAIR SHAFT. 

h. Cuticle of the hair; composed of flat cells over-lapping like 

shingles, with free ends directed upward, 
j. Cortex; composed of spindle-shaped cells firmly adherent to each 

other, and forming the bod}' of the hair. The cortex contains 

the cells of pigment to which the color of the hair is due. 
k. Medullary, or central canal filled with non-pigmented cells, kera- 

tohyalin granules and air bubbles. 
1. Papilla; a cone-like projection upward of connective tissue fibers; 

contains the minute arteries and veins by means of which the hair 

is nourished. 

m. Blood vessels of the papilla. 



Anatomy of the Scalp and Hair. 33 

glands, the hair follicles (in which we find the hair 
shafts), the sebaceous glands, which secrete the necessary 
oil for the hair, and the erector pili muscles, attached to 
the hair follicles and serving to elevate the hair. The hair 
follicles vary from one-twelfth to one-quarter of an inch 
in depth, and penetrate the scalp in a slanting direction. 

A Hair Follicle is simply a pear-shaped, tubular 
depression in the epidermis or outer layer of the skin, the 
larger end of which is directed downward, into or through 
the substance of the cutis or true skin. The supporting 
wall of the follicle is derived from the dermis or true skin, 
and is divided into an inner and an outer layer. 

The Inner Layer is composed of fibrous bands 
which run in a circular direction around the follicle, while 
from below it gives off a small cone-shaped mass which pro- 
jects upward into the lower end of the follicle and forms 
the hair papilla. The Outer Layer is composed of fibers 
which run parallel with the long axis of the follicle; and 
the lining of the walls of the latter consists of an external 
sheath and an internal sheath. The External Sheath is 
composed of modified cells of the epidermis or false skin, 
and is arranged in three layers — an external layer, a 
middle layer, and an internal layer, which end near the 
papilla at the bottom of the follicle. The Internal Sheath 
is also composed of three layers — an outer layer or layer 
of Henle ; a middle layer or layer of Huxley ; and an inner 
layer or cuticle of the follicle. It is formed from the 
cells on the sides of the neck of the papilla, and grows 
upward, ending at the neck of the follicle. Between the 
epithelial lining and the walls of the follicle we find the 
Vitreous or Glassy Membrane — a continuation of the 
membrane which separates the dermis from the epidermis. 

The Hair Papilla is a small, projecting, cone- 

3 



34 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

shaped mass of connective tissue given off by the inner 
layer of true skin, and extending up into the bottom of 
the hair follicle from below. Each hair takes origin and 
draws its nourishment from the papilla; and in its growth 
passes upward through the hollow, tube-like hair follicle, 
until it emerges at the surface of the skin. Should the 
vitality of the papilla be interfered with, the hair it nour- 
ishes ceases to grow, or dies and is cast off. 

Structure of the Hair. 

The Hair is a shaft-like, horny structure of skin 
origin ; its composition being somewhat similar to the sub- 
stance composing the nails, but much more soft and 
elastic. A Complete Hair is made up of four parts : The 
Bulb, or expanded lower end of the hair, is found at the 
bottom of the follicle, and has in its end a cup-shaped 
depression that fits over the papilla as an acorn hull fits 
the acorn ; The Hair Root includes the bulb and that por- 
tion of the hair contained within the hair follicle; The 
.Hair Shaft is that part of the hair which begins at the 
■level of the skin and extends up to where the shaft begins 
to taper at the end ; The Point is the extreme distal end of 
the hair. 

The Hair Shaft in cross section may be circular, 
oval or flattened; and whether the hair is round or flat- 
tened determines whether the hair is straight or curly — 
the flatter the hair shaft, the more it will curl. In the 
center of the hair shaft is a central or medullary canal, 
which is filled with a substance called the Medulla. This 
latter is made up of groups of many sided cells, separated 
one from the other by small air spaces, and sometimes 
containing grains of pigment. The medullary canal be- 
gins at the top of the hair papilla, and extends to within 
a short distance from the point of the hair. Surrounding 



PLATE II. 

TRANSVERSE SECTION OF HAIR AT MIDDLE OF 
FOLLICLE HAIR SHAFT. 

HAIR SHAFT. 

a. Medullary, or central canal, filled with many-sided cells. 

b. Cortex, or body of the hair, showing the fine pigment granules in 
and between the spindle-shaped cells. 

c. Cuticles of hair shaft and root-sheath. 

d. Inner layer of root-sheath. 

e. Outer layer of root-sheath. 

f. Prickle-cell layer of the follicle. 

g. Inner layer of follicle, 
h. Outer coat of follicle. 



I 



Anatomy of the Scalp and Hair. 35 

the central canal is the Cortex or horny tube which forms 
the body of the hair. It is composed of bundles of long, 
spindle-shaped cells, and contains the major portion of 
the pigment or coloring matter which gives the hair its 
basic color. The hair shaft has no nerve supply, but there 
are very fine nerve branches which penetrate the hair 
follicles. As yet no nerves to the hair papillae have been 
traced in the human subject. 

The Cuticle or outside covering of the hair is com- 
posed of a layer of many sided plates, free from coloring 
matter and arranged somewhat like the scales of a fish; 
having their free ends directed outward and upward to- 
ward the point of the hair, and interlocking with the 
downward pointing cells of the lining of the hair follicle. 

The Sebaceous Glands secrete the Sebum, a sub- 
stance resembling soft butter, which oils the hair. These 
glands are composed of groups of lobules joined together 
and are similar in arrangement to a small bunch of 
grapes; the sebum is emptied through a common duct 
into the upper third of the follicle directly upon the hair 
shaft, thus oiling the hair and rendering it soft and 
pliable. 

The Sweat Glands number about forty to the 
square inch, and therefore have an important bearing on 
diseases of the scalp. 

The Blood Supply of the hair is derived from the 
capillary network of blood vessels which surround and 
feed the walls of the hair follicle ; and from small arterial 
loops which project from below up into the hair papillae, 
which they nourish. 

Muscles of the Hair. 

Each hair follicle possesses a small muscle, one end 



36 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

of which is inserted into the inner layer of connective tis- 
sue which forms the wall of the follicle, the other end 
being attached at an angle to the true skin above. This 
muscle is called the Erector Pili Muscle and when it con- 
tracts the hair follicle is raised from its normal slanting 
position in the scalp to an upright position, thus elevating 
the hair point and causing the hair to "stand on end." 

Types of Hair. 

Human hair is divided into three classes. First, long, 
soft hair; the anatomy of which type has already been 
described. Long, soft hair is found on the head, and 
after the age of puberty, on the face, in the armpits and 
over the pubic regions. When the body hair is well de- 
veloped, the chest of the male is frequently covered by a 
growth of true long hair. 

Second, short, stiff hair. This variety is found in 
the eyelashes and eyebrows, where it is called Cilia; in 
the nose, where it is called Vibrisae; and in the external 
ears, where it is called Tragi. Short, stiff hair differs 
from the long, soft hair in that the hair follicles are 
implanted in the skin in a perpendicular direction, and 
naturally do not possess erector pili muscles. 

Third, Lanugo, or downy hair is the name given to 
the short, delicate hair which is found distributed over 
the entire surface of the body. It is very much finer in 
texture than long or short hair, is usually colorless, and 
does not possess a medullary canal. 



CHAPTER III. 

PHYSIOLOQY OF THE HAIR. 

Rudimentary Hair begins to develop on the face 
of the unborn child as early as the third month, and 
gradually spreads over the entire body and extremities; 
the process being completed about the seventh month, 
when it is slowly shed in the order of its first appearance. 
It differs from the hair after birth in that it possesses no 
medulla. After birth a new growth appears which repre- 
sents the permanent type of hair, as it contains a central 
canal, and gradually increases in thickness, length and 
color. 

The Age of Puberty is marked by a growth of 
hair over the pubic region, in the armpits, and on males, 
over the face. In women the growth of hair in the arm- 
pits is usually less developed than in men, and in many 
instances is entirely lacking. From the thirty-fifth to the 
fortieth years, a growth of short, stiff hair frequently 
appears in the nose and external ears, and the hair of the 
eyebrows becomes thicker and coarser. This growth is 
pronounced in men who possess an abundant growth of 
hair on the body. 

New Hair. 

In the Human Race there is a Constant Shed- 
ding and New Growth of Hair. This process is 
accomplished in the following manner : The hair loosens 
from its papilla ; the end of the root passes up to the mid- 
dle third of the follicle, where it remains attached for a 

(37) 



38 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

varying length of time; the papilla grows smaller; and 
finally the lower end of the follicle collapses. Hair in this 
condition is known as Bed Hair, and all healthy hair goes 
through this stage before it falls. When the end of the 
root of a bed hair passes beyond the middle third of the 
follicle, it receives no nourishment, and as a result dies 
and falls from the head. About two months after the hair 
bulb has passed up to the middle follicular region, a new 
hair begins to grow from the papilla, and in one or two 
months it is completely formed, the growth of new hair 
usually beginning before the bed hair has fallen from 
its follicle. 

Length of Hair Life — Rate of Growth. 

There is a marked variation in the length of life of 
hair, not only between the hairs of different individuals, 
but also between the hairs found on the same scalp. Fac- 
tors which determine the length of life of hair are age and 
sex, whether the hair is coarse or fine, and the condition 
of body health. The length of life of an individual hair 
on the human head varies from two to six years. The 
lifetime of eyelashes is from four to six months. The rate 
of hair growth varies from three-eighths to three-quarters 
of an inch a month until it has reached the length of twelve 
to fourteen inches, when its rate of growth is reduced 
one-half. Past this point the growth gradually ceases. 
Hair grows faster in warm weather than in cold, and 
faster by day than by night. The hair of women of the 
white race attains an average length of from twenty to 
twenty-four inches, although it may reach forty to sixty 
inches in some cases. The hair of men will not attain 
an average greater length than eight or twelve inches, 
even if left uncut. 



Physiology of the Hair. 39 

Chemical Composition of the Hair. 

Chemically, hair is composed principally of — 

Carbon 54-52 

Hydrogen 6.41 

Nitrogen 17 . 82- 

Sulphur 5 . 20 

Oxygen 16.05. 

Mineral matter, about 2%. 

The mineral matter consists of Sodium Sulphate,. 
Calcium Sulphate, Iron Oxide, Silica, with Carbonates. 
Phosphates, and Chlorides of Calcium, Magnesium and 
Sodium. Hair gradually grows darker and coarser with 
advancing age, this evolution being more rapid in males 
than in females. Hair of darker shades contains a larger 
proportion of carbon and iron than the lighter shades, 
while sulphur and oxygen are found in relatively larger 
quantities in light hair than in dark. White hair contains, 
a larger amount of mineral matter than colored hair. 

The Pigment or coloring matter of the hair is pro- 
duced by obscure chemical action indirectly from the 
coloring matter of the blood; and is found chiefly in the 
Cortex, where it is conveyed by the pigment carrying cells, 
located principally upon the sides of the papilla. 

The Color of the Hair is Dependent Upon Four 
Factors: First, the diffused pigment, found in the me- 
dullary canal and cortex, which imparts a light brown to 
a dark red color according to the quantity of pigment 
present ; Second, the granular pigment — found in or 
between the fibers of the cortex and sometimes in the 
medulla — which varies in color from a brown to an in- 
tense black. The more granular pigment the cortex con- 
tains, the darker the color of the hair, but some granular 
pigment is found in every shade of hair; Third, the pres- 



40 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

ence of air globules, which are found in the outer layer of 
the cortex, and which by their power of refracting light 
modify the color of the hair ; Fourth, the greater power of 
reflecting light possessed by an object with a rough sur- 
face over one that is smooth ; the former giving it a lighter 
shade. 

Various Shades of Hair. 

The color of the hair may be white, yellow, red, 
brown, and black with a multitude of intervening shades, 
dependent upon the amount, color and combinations of pig- 
ment. The Color of the Hair almost always corresponds 
in Shade with the Color of the Complexion and the Eyes; 
so that hair not properly stained to preserve this harmony, 
is easily detected by close observation, and instead of 
enhancing beauty, serves to disfigure. 

The Diameter of Scalp Hair varies from 1/250 
to 1/500 of an inch. The average diameter of the hair of 
women is greater than that of men; while the hair of the 
young is finer than that of adults. Very light blonde hair 
is the finest in texture, and a type of red hair is usually 
the coarsest; but the diameter of hairs may vary on 
the same head, and individual hairs differ in diameter 
throughout their extent. 

Hygroscopic Propenties. 

Hair readily absorbs moisture — the hair shaft be- 
coming thicker and rounder. This fact explains why hair 
that has been artificially waved loses its curl in damp 
weather. 

Elasticity and Strength. 

The hair is very elastic and so strong that a well 
developed, large hair will sustain a weight of several 



Physiology of the Hair. 41 

ounces. On account of its chemical composition it vies 
with the teeth in resisting after death the ravaging of time. 

Uses of Hair, 

First, the hair, being a nonconductor of heat, serves 
to maintain an even temperature of the head and neck. 
Second, it serves as a means of protection from physical 
violence. Third, beautiful, luxuriant hair furnishes the 
one incomparable background to soften rough facial fea- 
tures. Its shade, harmonizing with the color of the skin 
and eyes, brings out their greatest beauty; it modifies the 
irregular contour of the head, and produces symmetry 
of form. Beautiful hair is woman's crowning glory, and 
man's principal adornment. 



CHAPTER IV. 

HYGIENE OF THE HAIR. 

To acquire or retain beautiful hair, its scientific cul- 
ture is of the greatest importance. Fully eighty-five per 
cent of the cases of Alopecia Praematura, or loss of hair 
not due to specific disease and occurring before the age of 
forty- five years, is due to neglect of the laws of hygiene 
of the hair and scalp before the age of puberty. In many 
instances there is an inherited tendency to baldness or to 
scant, stiff, discolored hair, which requires especial care 
and attention. Massage and absolute cleanliness, together 
with scientific preparations intelligently applied, are neces- 
sary in order to prevent or cure diseases of the scalp and 
hair, and to insure the maximum amount of nourishment ; 
while routine measures to promote their health and growth 
from an early age should be adopted and persistently fol- 
lowed. We wish to emphasize that absolute cleanliness 
is essential, not only of the hair and scalp, but also of the 
brushes and combs used in caring for them. The wearing 
of hats, ,or any form of head-dress other than one's own 
may result in great harm. Insufficient or over-exposure 
of the hair to fresh air and light, tight fitting, unventilated 
forms of head-dresses such as fur hats or caps, which heat 
the scalp and induce excessive perspiration, in fact any 
treatment which common sense would condemn as harm- 
ful, must be avoided. 

False Hair. 

The practice of constantly wearing false hair as an 
aid to personal adornment is ill-advised when considered 

(42) 



Hygiene of the Hair. 43 

from a hygienic standpoint; it heats the head and induces 
perspiration of the scalp, with its attendant evils which 
directly inhibit hair health and growth; the degree of 
injury being dependent upon the length of time, and the 
amount of hair worn. It is far better to stimulate the 
growth of natural hair by the adoption of proper means, 
even though much time and patience are required, than to 
achieve a temporary comeliness by the wearing of false 
hair which may have been taken from the dead, or from 
some person afflicted with disease. Study the physiology 
and hygiene of the scalp and learn how to acquire and 
maintain beautiful hair; thus avoiding those dangers en- 
tailed by the constant wearing of false tresses — a habit 
so unnatural, unsanitary, and in many instances so filthy. 

Sun Bleached Hair. 

Hair health and growth are promoted by a favorable 
amount of exposure to the air and light; while prolonged 
exposure to the hot rays of the sun will bleach or fade the 
color of the hair and destroy its lustre. Nature endeavors 
to prevent this latter action of the sun's rays by increasing 
in the cortex of the hair shaft the deposit of pigment, 
which serves as a protective agent to the head in a manner 
similar to that of the pigment of the skin which protects 
the body. This fact explains why the inhabitants of hot 
countries have as a rule hair of darker shade than people 
who live in a colder climate. 

When nature fails in her effort to conserve the vitality 
of the hair by an increased pigmentary deposit, there 
results a condition known as sun-bleached hair, the result 
of exposure through the hot summer months, which is 
characterized by a dull, lifeless condition, due to the exces- 
sive action of the sun's rays especially upon hair that has 
been wet and improperly dried. As a result the hair 



44 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

becomes dry with split ends, and its beauty and vitality is 
impaired. To correct this condition nutrition in the form 
of a nourishing oil should be massaged into the scalp until 
the lost vigor is restored. Pure white vaseline, pure olive 
oil or sweet almond oil may be used. If a thin oil is used 
it may be applied to the scalp by means of a medicine 
dropper. The most convenient way of applying the vase- 
line is to place a teaspoonful in a small dish, dip the ringer 
tips into this and apply by parting the hair in the middle 
and massaging with the finger tips along the entire line of 
exposed scalp; then make small partings as near to the 
first line as possible and continue the operation until the 
vaseline has been applied to the entire scalp. By using the 
oil or vaseline in this way the proper nourishment can be 
supplied to the scalp without rendering the hair greasy or 
sticky. This procedure should be repeated once weekly, 
and should be followed by a shampoo on the succeeding 
day. 

The Hair Brush. 

The hair brush should have stiff, firm bristles, set 
rather widely apart, and arranged in rows or in widely 
separated tufts. Theoretically, the bristles in the middle 
of the brush should be longer than those of the edge, in 
order that perfect adjustment between the ends of the 
bristles and the scalp may be secured. We do not indorse 
the use of brushes with wire bristles as they irritate the 
scalp, and offer no particular advantage over a brush with 
natural bristles. The brush should be used at least twice 
daily with sufficient vigor to brush out all foreign matter 
lodged in the hair and to produce a feeling of stimulation 
in the scalp. 



Hygiene of the Hair. 45 

Care of the Brush. 

The brush should be disinfected weekly by washing 
with soap and hot water, by soaking in a solution of 
Formalin and water in the proportion of a teaspoonful to 
a pint, or by means of borax and water. One of the most 
effectual ways of cleansing the brush, aside from boiling, 
and one that will not make the bristles too soft is by 
immersing the bristles in warm water to which a little 
ammonia has been added; another excellent method and 
one which will remove all grease and leave the bristles 
firm is by rubbing thoroughly with dry bran, afterward 
combing and shaking it out. 

Stiffening the Bristles. 

The stiffness may be restored to bristles by washing 
them in hot water to which a small amount of ammonia 
has been added, then dipping them in salt water and allow- 
ing to dry with the bristles up in the open air. A solution 
of baking soda and cold water may be substituted for the 
above if desired. 

Proper Use of the Brush. 

The daily brushing and combing of the hair tends, 
more than by any other means, to impart that beautiful 
gloss which is so desired. It stimulates the supply of 
blood, thereby increasing the amount of nourishment to 
the hair papilla ; the secretions of the sebaceous glands, or 
natural hair oil, are stimulated and distributed more thor- 
oughly through the hair; and dust and dandruff are re- 
moved from the hair and scalp. The hairpins should be 
removed and the hair ventilated or aired by gentle shaking, 
assisted by a combing action of the fingers, before the 
brushing. 



46 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

To brush properly the hair remember that it is im- 
planted at an angle in the scalp, and brush in the direction 
of the natural slant, from side to side, beginning at the 
natural center parting and brushing outward and down- 
ward toward the end of the hair ; in the same manner from 
the rear of the head brush downward and back. If the 
riair is long, separate it into small strands and brush it 
throughout its entire length ; after the hair is gone over in 
this manner, throw it forward over the face and gently 
rjrush it at the sides of the face and nape of the neck. 
Care should be exercised to brush equally the hair over all 
portions of the head, and with sufficient vigor to stimulate 
the scalp. 

It is interesting to note that the use of hair brushes is 
of great antiquity. The original hair brushes were made 
of small bundles of twigs, stiff fibers, or grasses, bound 
together at the end ; and such brushes are still to be found 
among certain primitive races. 

The Comb. 

The comb is an important adjunct of the brush in the 
care of the hair, and has been used in a crude form from 
time immemorial. A primitive Lake Dweller's comb 
found in the Marsh excavations north of the Alps was 
made from small pointed sticks of box-tree wood, so 
braided with cord that they held the right distance apart, 
and were secured in place by diagonally bound strips of 
wood. 

The comb should have large, widely separated, smooth 
teeth with round ends, in order to prevent undue pulling 
of the hair or irritation of the scalp. The material of 
which a comb is made is not a matter of importance pro- 
vided the form is correct. The objection to the ordinary 
metal comb is its improper shape; but it has this advan- 



Hygiene of the Hair. 47 

tage, that it can be sterilized by heat without injury. 
Combs with ill-fitting or ornate silver backs are objec- 
tionable, since they are prone to entangle or pull the hair, 
as well as being difficult to sterilize. Celluloid hair combs 
and pins are dangerous on account of their inflammable 
nature. Combs should be kept clean by frequent washing 
in any of the solutions used in cleansing the brush. 

It is bad practice to use a comb of any description on 
the hair of infants, as it may irritate the scalp or cause an 
eczema; and crusts or scales should never be combed from 
the scalp. 

The Proper Use of the Comb. 

With a comb of correct form divide the hair in the 
median line and part off a small strand which should be 
held firmly in the hand, or wrapped around the fingers and 
held between the scalp and the comb to avoid undue trac- 
tion on the roots of the hair; draw the comb slowly, first 
through the ends of the hair, then gradually work up 
toward the roots. This method of combing will untangle 
any existing snarl instead of bringing it together in a knot. 
Proceed in this manner, combing small strands in their 
regular order until the operation is complete. For obvious 
reasons the hair should be perfectly dry before it is 
combed. Finally the hair may be arranged in a loose braid 
or coil, or if one sleeps so quietly that snarls will not result, 
tied loosely close to the scalp, with the unbound portion 
spread over the pillow. 

The practice of combing the hair by stroking it to- 
ward the roots in the process of dressing it, in order that 
it may appear more fluffy and abundant, is extremely bad 
practice, as such treatment not only injures the delicate 
external plates of cuticle which project toward the end of 



48 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

the hair, but it also results in tangles and knots, with con- 
sequent fracture of the hair shaft. 

Hair and scalp that are too dry frequently require the 
application of a small quantity of olive oil, sweet almond 
oil, or vaseline, which should be applied to the scalp before 
the brushing by means of a medicine dropper or by making 
frequent partings and rubbing into the scalp with the tips 
of the fingers. 

Hair Pins. 

The material which enters into the composition of 
hair pins is not important, but the pin itself should be 
large and smooth with rounded points. The use of rough, 
sharp metal hair pins not only injures the hair and scalp, 
but they frequently serve as carriers of contagion. In hair 
dressing establishments, never permit the use of a hair pin 
other than your own, unless it is perfectly new. 

Hot Curling Irons. 

Frequent dressing of the hair with the aid of hot 
curling irons is very injurious. As we have seen, the 
sebaceous glands supply a natural hair oil, which is poured 
out into the hair follicle, and serves to keep the scalp, soft 
and pliable, and the hair smooth and flexible. This oil not 
only envelopes the hair shaft, but it also penetrates into 
the interior of the hair. The frequent use of a hot curling 
iron literally burns up this natural oil, leaving the hair dry 
and brittle, with split ends and with a greatly lessened 
vitality. To prevent or correct this condition abolish the 
curling iron; or if needs must, wrap the iron with white 
tissue paper which will char if the iron is too hot. Clip 
off the ends of any split hairs below the cleft, and Rub Into 
the Scalp a good grade of olive oil, castor oil, or white 



Hygiene of the Hair. 49 

vaseline, after which the hair should be thoroughly 
brushed. 

Hair Cutting. 

Hair cutting in adult life is more a matter of personal 
taste than necessity. The hair of men may be worn longer 
or shorter as fancy dictates, since the health of the hair is 
not affected by cutting if the operation is performed with 
sharp, smooth scissors. In women the hair is always worn 
long unless cutting is required as a result of disease. 

Clipping the Hair. 

This treatment is necessary to remove unhealthy split 
ends of dry or cracked hair, and is beneficial in the treat- 
ment of falling hair. The hair should be thoroughly 
shampooed and parted in the middle; then separate a 
small strand of hair and holding it by the end away from 
the head twist it into a tight roll, being careful not to cause 
undue strain on the roots of the hair. Twisting the hair 
in this manner will cause the split ends to project from the 
roll, when they may be readily clipped off by the shears. 
Complete the clipping by cutting off the extreme end of 
the strand, after which the hair may be coiled and pinned 
against the side of the head. Proceed in like manner until 
all the hair has been treated. 

Singeing the Hair. 

The object of singeing the hair is not to shorten it, as 
is effected by the operation of cutting, but rather, as in 
clipping, to remove the split ends. The good results 
obtained by singeing, as frequently described, are nil; if 
there is any difference of merit between the two methods 
of removing split ends it is in favor of hair clipping, on the 
theory that the application of intense heat drys out the 
natural oil from the hair shaft, thus creating a condition 

4 



50 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

which favors the tendency to split and break. The sole 
advantage of such practice lies in the rapidity with which 
the operation may be performed. The practice of singeing 
the hair is founded upon a belief that the hair contains in 
its central canal a vital fluid which escapes from the free 
open end of the hair shaft when the hair is cut ; but since 
such vital fluid does not exist, the theory of singeing is 
utterly valueless, is based upon utter ignorance of hair 
structure and growth, and is merely the resurrection of a 
method practiced during the dark ages. 

To Singe the Hair it should be divided into small 
twisted strands in the manner described for clipping. The 
singeing may be done by a special lighted wax taper or by 
any taper that will answer the purpose; this taper should 
be moved swiftly and always held in an upright position in 
order that the size of the blaze may be regulated and the 
singeing controlled, and to avoid singeing too close to the 
roots of the hair. After the process is completed, brush 
and shampoo thoroughly to remove the odor of burnt hair 
and the burnt ends of the hair. A suitable oil may then be 
applied if indicated, and the hair dressed as desired. 

Shaving. 

In early times the beard was considered an especial 
attribute of masculine adornment and virility, and a great 
deal of care was lavished upon its cultivation. While a 
heavy beard undoubtedly serves as a means of protection 
to the throat, it is not now needed; and the luxuriant 
growth of hair on the face affected by our forefathers is 
today rarely seen. Smooth shaven faces are the rule, and 
the element of protection formerly desired has surrendered 
to the greater demands of hygiene. 

In shaving we need to consider only the arrangement 
of the hair whorls upon the face and neck, rather than the 



Hygiene of the Hair. 51 

actual cutting of the hair itself. The beard should be 
shaved with due consideration of the direction in which 
the hair lies, or "shaved with the grain," in order that the 
cut ends may not become engaged in the skin structure as 
the result of growth. Too close shaving causes irritation 
and roughening of the skin. The razor used in shaving 
should be sharp and cut smoothly, should be drawn with a 
sliding stroke to avoid pulling, and to utilize fully the cut- 
ting power of the blade ; pimples containing pus should be 
cleansed with an antiseptic solution; and any bleeding 
points should be checked by pressure or heat, rather than 
by the application of a styptic pencil. After shaving and 
removing all traces of soap with warm water, cold water 
should be applied and some antiseptic solution, as the spirit 
of bay rum, may then be used. Finally the face may be 
powdered to suit ; or if needed to allay irritation, any oint- 
ment or lotion required may be applied. The soap used in 
shaving should be non-irritating and produce a creamy 
lather; which should be rubbed in so thoroughly as to 
soften the beard, when the operation of shaving is ren- 
dered easy. Cleanliness of all utensils used in shaving 
should be insisted upon. 

The Hair Line. 

The average woman does not realize the subtle influ- 
ence which the possession of a beautiful hair line exerts 
upon the features. The growth of hair where the skin of 
the face and the scalp meet should be preserved by massage 
along the hair line from the ears to top of forehead, using 
the tips of the fingers, and by gentle brushing. The use of 
face creams which clog the follicles, or face bleaches which 
are especially harmful when rubbed into the hair line, 
should be avoided. 



52 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Mode of Dressing the Hair. 

At times occasion demands that an elaborate coiffure 
be worn. This does not necessarily entail injury to the 
hair if proper care be exercised. Ordinarily, any be- 
coming fashion of wearing the hair is permissible, pro- 
viding that the mode chosen does not entail injurious 
twisting or binding of the hair. The simplest way of 
wearing the hair, such as braiding it or brushing it 
smoothly back from the forehead, is best; and we do not 
believe that light switches or coils, if properly worn for a 
short time upon special occasions, are objectionable. Curl- 
ing the hair by the use of hot irons, curl papers, or kids, is 
not recommended ; the best results are obtained by curling 
it over soft silk, when the hair will be left soft, glossy and 
flexible. If curling tongs are used they should be wrapped 
with white tissue paper. This serves the double purpose 
of showing the char which a too hot iron would produce, 
as well as protecting the hair from the surface of the 
naked metal and preventing any stain on the hair that 
might arise from the use of colored paper. These points 
are of especial value in the waving of white hair. 

Hair Dressing Parlors and Barber Shops. 

To secure conditions approximating surgical cleanli- 
ness is impossible in the ordinary hair-dressing establish- 
ment or barber shop. Patrons can demand, however, clean 
hands, towels and hygienic surroundings. When possible 
one should always furnish their own cups and brushes, or 
brush, comb, and pins, as the case may be. If patrons 
realized to what an extent contagious local and constitu- 
tional diseases are spread in unclean and carelessly man- 
aged parlors and shops, they would not be content until 
the strictest of sanitary measures were enforced ; or fail- 
ing that, the functions of these establishments would be 



Hygiene of the Hair. 53 

performed in their own home. Patronize only the up-to- 
date barber or hair dresser who endeavors to conform to 
the laws of hygiene as a matter of good business, and 
through proper pride in his establishment. Clean towels 
should be used but once and then boiled; fresh covers for 
head-rests should be provided for each individual; fre- 
quent sterilization of all instruments and utensils used 
should be practiced; and the cleanliness of the operator 
should be above reproach. To be successful, the advanced 
hair dresser or barber of the future will not only have a 
thorough knowledge of the laws of hygiene, but he will put 
that knowledge into execution, and capitalize heavily in his 
business as a result. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE SHAMPOO. 

The shampoo is a process of washing thoroughly the 
hair and scalp with the fingers or a soft brush, using either 
soap or a saponaceous preparation for the more perfect 
cleansing. 

Beautiful Hair is Not the Only Result of 
Proper Care, but it is the First; and a Shampoo 
Properly Given is One of the Most Important 
Hygienic Factors in Preserving or Acquiring It. 

The results to be obtained from the shampoo are manifold ; 
all superfluous oil or foreign matter which renders the hair 
sticky and lustreless should be washed away; the scalp 
should be thoroughly cleansed in order that the highest de- 
gree of vitality not only of the skin, but of the underlying 
structures of the scalp, may be maintained; all foreign 
matter which may clog the mouths of the sweat glands 
and hair follicles should be removed, else the vitality of the 
hair will be impaired as a result of the damming up of the 
mouths of the hair follicles, with a resultant condition 
which affects directly the growth of the hair itself. The 
sweat glands are excretory organs and their function must 
not be interfered with else diseases ranging in severity 
from a slight inflammation to a violent eczema may result. 
The effects of a thorough shampoo are more than local, as 
it not only benefits the hair and scalp, but also produces 
a general feeling of freshness and well being. 



(54) 



The Shampoo. 55 

Shampoo Mixtures. 

The best shampoo mixture is made with pure soap 
and soft water as a base. Hard water should never be 
used in a shampoo, as the lime and sometimes iron con- 
tained in it will* be deposited on the hair shaft, leaving the 
latter harsh; and on white hair may result in discolored 
streaks. The soap should be shaved into fine particles and 
sufficient boiling water poured over it to make a solution 
the consistency of a thin syrup ; or a cake of soap be placed 
in a vessel, a pint of boiling water added and the mixture 
agitated until a thick lather is formed. The following will 
be found a good shampoo mixture: Shave fine one cake 
of Castile soap, pour over it three quarts of boiling water 
and allow to stand, applying gentle heat until the soap is 
entirely dissolved; then cool and bottle for future use. 
The following shampoo liquid is frequently used by hair 
dressers and barbers : One-half pound of Cochin Castile, 
one tablespoonful of Borax, one gallon of water. Boil 
until soap is dissolved, then cool and bottle for future use. 
The white of an egg beaten up and added to the shampoo 
solution will assist in giving the hair a soft gloss. If the 
hair does not contain much oil or dust, a mixture of two 
or three eggs beaten up in soft water will be sufficient to 
cleanse it, after which it should be thoroughly rinsed. 

Application of Shampoo Mixtures. 

To apply the shampoo, moisten the hair and scalp 
with warm water — never use cold — and massage the 
solution into the scalp with the ends of the fingers until 
the scalp is thoroughly cleansed; if the hair is long, satu- 
rate it with the shampoo mixture and proceed to wash it 
downward from the roots to the end by rubbing it between 
the palms. The long, thin ends of the hair may be 
doubled, always exercising care to prevent tangling and 



56 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

snarling. Complete the process by rinsing in warm soft 
water applied by means of a bath spray, or by holding 
the head over a basin and pouring the warm water over 
the scalp and hair, assisting the rinsing process by a 
gentle rubbing with the hands. Never rub the hair or 
scalp with a cake of coap; use a shampoo mixture and 
make a good lather, rubbing the fingers back and forth, 
and avoiding circular motions as this will cause tangles, 
especially if the hair is long. Do not finish the rinsing 
process with water sufficiently cold to chill as is sometimes 
advocated. As a result of such practice a cold in the head 
may result, especially among those who have a catarrhal 
tendency. Very cold water is advocated on the ground that 
it brings the blood to the scalp; but since this object is at- 
tained by the massage, the application serves no good 
purpose and may result in harm. 

It is imperative that the hair and scalp be entirely 
freed from soap, and the process of rinsing must be re- 
peated as many times as is necessary to accomplish this 
purpose. To the final rinse water a little acetic acid or 
lemon juice is sometimes added with benefit. The hair 
and scalp should then be thoroughly dried in front of an 
open fire or in the sunlight, by the use of soft, warm tow- 
els, and by occasionally shaking and passing the spread 
fingers through the hair. A gentle fanning may be used 
to hasten the drying, but the use of a hot blast from an 
electric blower is harmful. Should the scalp and hair be 
dry and harsh, the application of a bland oil to replace the 
natural oil which has been removed by washing will be of 
benefit. This may be supplied by the addition of a small 
quantity of sweet almond oil to the last rinse water; or 
pure olive oil, pure castor oil, sweet almond oil, any medi- 
cated ointment, or white sterile vaseline may be rubbed 
into the scalp. If oil is used it is best applied with the 



The Shampoo. 57 

aid of a medicine dropper ; if vaseline or a medicated oint- 
ment is used the hair should be parted at short intervals 
and the preparation rubbed into the scalp with the finger 
tips; the hair should then be thoroughly brushed with a 
clean brush in order to restore tone and to distribute the 
oil through the hair. 

The Frequency of the Shampoo. 

The frequency of the shampoo depends entirely upon 
the condition of the hair and scalp; if very oily or much 
exposed to dust and dirt the shampoo should be given as 
frequently as is necessary to keep them clean. This may 
require a shampoo every week, but ordinarily a shampoo 
every third or fourth week is sufficient. Men who are 
exposed to dust and dirt should shampoo more frequently 
than women whose hair is long, less exposed to contam- 
ination, and usually better protected than the hair of men. 
When using tonics or other medicinal preparations on the 
scalp, the hair and scalp should be shampooed at least once 
every two weeks ; while hair that is abnormally dry should 
not be washed with soap and water except at long inter- 
vals — afterward applying to the scalp with medicine 
dropper a little sweet almond oil or castor oil diluted with 
20% of alcohol. 

Apparent Loss of Hair Due to the Shampoo. 

One may experience a sense of shock when they see 
the large amount of hair that may have been washed from 
the scalp in the course of a shampoo ; but this is hair that 
should be removed since it is dead hair, and should be 
replaced by a growth of new hair. The hair so shed is not 
lost by reason of the shampoo, but in spite of the shampoo, 
since the shampoo properly given will correct the very 
conditions which are responsible for its fall. 



58 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

The Addition of Chemicals to the Shampoo. 

Care should be observed in the addition to the 
shampoo of various chemicals advocated by many hair 
dressers. Carbonate of Soda in the proportion of a tea- 
spoonful to a pint of water may prove of benefit if the 
hair and scalp is very oily, or if the hair is being prepared 
for the application of a dye. Ammonia is also frequently 
used to free the hair and scalp from oil; but the too fre- 
quent use of these drugs will lighten the color of brown 
and blonde hair, and leave it dry and brittle. Chemicals 
should not be added to a shampoo mixture intended for 
use on white hair, as special treatment is necessary, the 
directions for which are given in the chapter devoted to 
that subject. 

The Dry Shampoo. 

Originally a "dry shampoo" referred to the use of a 
fine powder composed of an inert substance of which pow- 
dered corn meal or powdered orris root are good ex- 
amples. Later liquid dry shampoos containing ingre- 
dients of a volatile nature came into existence, and the 
term "dry shampoo" is applied to them on account of their 
rapid drying properties. Each variety has special indica- 
tions for its use, and may be employed alone or in conjunc- 
tion with one another. The dry shampoo is advised when 
for any reason the employment of an ordinary shampoo is 
harmful. In the treatment of white hair, for those who 
possess an oily scalp that does not need a regular sham- 
poo, for those whose scalp secretes too little oil and is 
harsh and dry with faded, brittle hair, or for those who 
take cold easily, the dry shampoo may be recommended. 



The Shampoo. 59 

dry shampoo for oily hair. 

No. 1. 

Sprinkle hair with corn meal. This will be found 
beneficial as it absorbs the oil and removes dirt. The 
preparation should be brushed out with a stiff brush. 
White corn meal is the best for all general purposes. 

3 No. 2. 

Corn meal, one part ; 
Powdered orris root, one part. 

LIQUID AND POWDER DRY SHAMPOO FOR OILY HAIR. 

Moisten the scalp and hair with alcohol or Eau de 
Cologne, after which they should be thoroughly dried by 
passing the spread fingers through the hair or with a soft 
towel. Then part the hair in small strands, and with the 
dry shampoo powder in a perforated can, sift the powder 
onto the scalp, and gently massage for a few minutes; 
then thoroughly brush out using a stiff brush. This treat- 
ment will not only serve to remove all superfluous oil and 
foreign matter, but will render the hair soft, lustrous and 
fluffy. If the hair contains much oil when the powder is 
applied, some difficulty may be experienced in removing it. 

The following preparation makes a refined shampoo 
powder. It should be used as the preceding. 

5 No. 3. 

Powdered orris root I ounce 

Talcum i^ ounces 

Starch 2 ounces 

Oil of Lemon 6 drops 

Oil of Bergamot 8 drops 

Oil of Neroli 4 drops 

Mix the powders and add the oils. 



60 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

The following dry liquid shampoo will be found most 
excellent for use upon oily hair when for any reason it is 
best to avoid a regular shampoo. The hair and scalp 
should be kept in good condition by requent ventilation, 
and by brushing the hair and scalp to remove all foreign 
matter. The Hair should be parted in small strands and 
the mixture applied to the scalp with a soft sponge. 

DRY LIQUID SHAMPOO. 

5 No. 4. 

Chloroform 2 drams 

Eau de Cologne . . 2 ounces 

Mix and apply. 

Manipulate the scalp and hair with the fingers until 
dry, and follow with a thorough brushing. 

Special Shampoo Mixtures. 

The use of tgg in the shampoo mixture is advocated 
when the scalp is thin and dry and the hair is brittle and 
rapidly falling. 

5 No. 5. 

Hot water I pint 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 drops 

Yolk of one egg. 

Perfume to suit 

Mix. 

Saturate the hair and scalp with the shampoo mixture 
and gently massage into scalp with finger tips; then re- 
move all traces of same by repeated rinsings with warm 
water and dry with soft warm towels. 

This procedure will be found very refreshing and 
beneficial to the scalp and will leave the hair in a beautiful 
fluffy condition. 



The Shampoo. 61 

No. 6. 

^ LIQUID EGG SHAMPOO. 

White of one egg. 

Borax i ounce 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Bay rum 4 o^ces 

Water 5 ounces 

Beat the egg and dissolve in a portion of the water ; 
dissolve borax in remainder of water. Mix all the ingre- 
dients and strain. 

Use as the preceding. 

The following shampoo is a true Egg Julep, and has 
found much favor in the fashionable English hair- 
dressing establishments : 

* No. 7. 

Egg yolk 2 fluid ounces 

Chloroform water (saturated) 2 fluid ounces 

Triturate thoroughly and add : 

Concentrated infusion of Quillaja I ounce 

Salicylic acid 5 grains 

Camphor io grains 

Borax 25 grains 

Eau de Cologne 3 fluid ounces 

Saturated Chloroform water, enough to make 1 pint. 
Mix thoroughly and strain through fine muslin cloth. 

Directions: Thoroughly wet the hair with warm 
soft water and pour on one or two tablespoonfuls of the 
julep. Rub until a lather forms, then remove all traces of 
shampoo mixture by rinsing with warm water; and dry. 
After using this preparation the hair is left soft and 
pliant. 



62 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 8. 
£ imitation egg julep. 

- Pure castile soap (inshavings) I ounce 

Water of Ammonia I fluid ounce 

lavender water I ounce 

Alcohol 20% solution, enough to make. . . I pint 
Mix. Pirections : Use as an ordinary shampoo. 

Ti3* 3HAMP00 LIQUID. 

The use of tar as a scalp application is indorsed by 
many specialists. The objeO'on to its use is its disagree- 
able odor; but this objection is largely overcome when it is 
used in the form of a shampoo, of which the following is 
one of the best : 

B No. 9. 

Green or soft soap ij ounces 

Potassium carbonate 2 drams 

Oil of tar 15 drops 

Alcohol 2 \ ounces 

Water 8 ounces 

Mix, let stand a few days and filter. 

TONIC LIQUID SHAMPOO. 

The following liquid tonic shampoo will be found 
most excellent. It has cleansing, stimulating, and anti- 
septic properties: 

^ No. 10. 

Tincture Quillaja 5 ounces 

Cologne water 2. ounces 

Glycerine 1 ounce 

Fluid extract of Jaborandi 2 ounces 

Quinine Sulphate . 20 grains 

Orange flower water, enough to make 1 pint 



The Shampoo. 63 

Mix the cologne, flower water and tincture Quillaja; 
dissolve the quinine in the mixture, add the remaining in- 
gredients and filter. Apply as an ordinary shampoo. 

SPECIAL SHAMPOO FOR INFLAMED, ITCHING SCALP. 

Shampoo hair and scalp in regular manner and while 
still moist saturate with lemon juice which should be 
allowed to dry; then apply the following mixture for ten 
minutes to the hair and scalp. One application is usually 
sufficient to effect a cure. 

5 No. 11. 

Water i pint 

Sweet almond oil 15 drops 

Spirits of Rosemary '. 20 drops 

Yolk of one egg. 
Mix. 

This should be applied with gentle massage and the 
hair and scalp then rinsed in warm water and dried. ,If 
frequently applied, this treatment will lighten the color of 
brown, chestnut or blonde hair. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SCALP MASSAGE. 

Beautiful Hair is Dependent Upon a Knowledge and 
Correct Practice of the Laws of Hygiene of the Hair and 
Scalp, With the Use of Proper Medicinal Preparations 
When Such Are Indicated. This Knowledge Does Not 
Come Intelligently of Itself, Nor Correctly From Ordinary 
Everyday Sources. 

At the Present Time Every Line of Human Endeavor 
Has an Efficiency expert — One Who Studies Out the 
Best Way of Doing Things. The Success Achieved, How- 
ever, Depends Not Only on Knowing Hozv to Do Things, 
but Also Upon the Mental and Physical Ability to Put 
That Knowledge Into Practice. 

The comparative shallow depth of the hair follicle, 
the angle in which the hair shaft is implanted in it, and 
the peculiar attachment of the hair bulb to the delicate 
hair papilla, make a proper method of massage imperative. 
A scalp properly massaged by the methods to be described 
is greatly benefited. Massage given by allowing the finger 
tips to slide about over the scalp in a circular motion, or 
any practice that causes undue strain upon the delicate 
hair organs, not only injures the hair growth, but hastens 
the advent of gray hair by interfering with the vitality of 
the cells through which the natural coloring matter is 
conveyed to the hair shaft. 

Scalp Massage is a method of rubbing, kneading, 
or stroking the scalp with the hands or some instrument, 
for the purpose of increasing the blood supply and to 

(64) 



Scalp Massage. 65 

hasten the elimination of those waste products which have 
not been washed away by the cleansing action of the 
shampoo, and which may clog the hair follicles. 

Stimulated by massage the arteries furnish a richer 
supply of blood to the hair papilla and directly increase 
hair growth. The under-lying connective tissue which con- 
tains the pigment carrying cells, is thickened and strength- 
ened, thereby augmenting the deposit of pigment and 
preserving the natural color of the hair. The flow of 
sebum, or the secretion of the sebaceous glands, is in- 
creased, so that more natural oil is furnished to the hair 
and scalp, supplying in greater abundance the natural 
agent which renders the hair soft, smooth and flexible. 
The entire scalp becomes thicker and more freely movable 
over the skull, thus affording more favorable soil for 
hair cultivation. At the same time, the elimination of 
waste products is hastened through the agency of the 
venous circulation and the sweat glands. 

Many ingenious mechanical instruments have been 
devised for massaging the scalp. Several varieties of 
vibrators, each with claims of special features, are to be 
found in numberless barber shops and hair-dressing par- 
lors. Vacuum caps which are said to promote the flow of 
blood to the scalp through suction, and electrical appara- 
tuses which supply the high frequency current, or the 
violet rays for application to the scalp, have their advo- 
cates. Properly used, they are each productive of some 
good ; but an experience with practically all of the mechan- 
ical agents used in massaging the scalp leads us to prefer 
the use of the bare hands as the most effective agent. 

To Properly Massage the Scalp, place firmly the 
palms of the hands upon the sides of the head with the 

5 



66 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

fingers slightly separated one from another, and with 
sufficient distance between the ends of the fingers of the 
two hands to permit a fold of scalp being pinched up when 
the hands are shoved together. This manner of pinching 
up successive folds of the scalp should be repeated con- 
tinuously until the entire scalp surface is reddened and 
warmed. Since the object of massage is scalp stimulation, 
the following method may be used alone or alternated with 
the preceding: With the fingers of both hands clasped 
over the top of the head and pressed firmly against the 
scalp, rotate it from side to side and forward and back- 
ward, changing the position of the hands as needed to 
treat the entire scalp; and massage a sufficient length of 
time to produce a tingling sensation. When practicing 
massage do not permit the hands to slip from their posi- 
tion on the scalp as undue strain or pulling upon the hair 
roots will result in harm. A very gentle, pleasing massage 
effect can be achieved by passing the spread fingers of each 
hand close up along the sides and over the top of the head, 
and exerting gentle traction upon the hair when moving 
the hands outward toward the ends. This serves not only 
to mildly stimulate the scalp structures, but also aereates 
rthe hair and scalp. Massage applied but once each week 
or ten days is of no practical benefit. To be effective, it 
snust be practiced for a period of thirty minutes, three or 
more times a week if given by a professional masseur. 
The best results however can be secured by massage self- 
administered, if the scalp is treated for ten minutes daily 
in the manner described. Should the scalp be thin and 
tightly bound to the skull, the application of hot towels to 
relax it before massage is given will prove of great 
assistance. 



Scalp Massage. 67 

Massage of the Scalp as a Remedy for Falling Hair 
is Valuable Only When the Scalp is Free From Dandruff 
or Other Diseased Conditions. Should Dandruff or Dis- 
ease be Present, a Massage May Aggravate Any Existing 
Unhealthy Condition and Spread the Disease Over the 
Entire Scalp. 



CHAPTER VII. 

HAIR CURLING AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING. 

Crisp curling hair has always: been regarded with the 
utmost favor by those who desire to possess beautiful hair, 
and the curling locks of man or maiden have inspired 
paeans of praise in song and story throughout the ages. 
To satisfy the desire of that great multitude upon whom 
Nature has not seen fit to bestow naturally curling hair, 
a harmless method to achieve that desired end has long 
been sought. Countless medicinal agents, and a mul- 
titude of mechanical devices used either alone or in 
combination with moist heat or electricity, have been 
recommended. It is undoubtedly true that the hair wave 
produced by means of mechanical devices is more lasting 
than can be secured by medicinal agents, yet we do not 
recommend their use as the employment of such devices 
results in permanent injury to the hair; although the in- 
jurious effects are not apparent until after a lapse of time. 
Even the so-called permanent curling or waving is not 
permanent in the strict sense of the word. It has been our 
desire to supply harmless methods of curling the hair ; and 
while the curling effect is not permanent, the wave is re- 
tained for a considerable period of time and no injurious 
consequences result. There are numerous hair-curling 
fluids advertised, and many of them are extremely 
harmful. Paris hair dressers use a preparation known as 
"Secretage" which is advertised to permanently curl the 
hair. It is composed of a solution of mercury and nitric 
acid diluted with water. A somewhat similar preparation 
is employed by fur dealers in the treatment of hair used 

(68) 



Hair Curling and Hair Straightening. 69 

in the making of fur coats, collars, muffs, etc. These pow- 
erful preparations should never be used as they may 
practically ruin a fine head of hair. The following prep- 
arations are of a mucilaginous, alkaline, or resinous char- 
acter ; and when applied hold the hair in curl. They can be 
used without fear of danger, and their use will be found 
very satisfactory. After applying, the hair should be put 
up in curl papers or kids ; or the effect may be made more 
permanent by the use of the curling tongs heated suffi- 
ciently to add permanence to the curl without injuring the 
hair. 

Hair Curling Liquid. 

No. 1. 

£ FOR KEEPING THE HAIR IN CURL. 

Powdered Borax ■. .. 4 drams 

Gum Arabic 18 grains 

Spirits of Camphor 3 drams 

Water 8 ounces 

Dissolve the solids in warm water, cool and add the 
camphor. Apply freely to the hair and roll in papers. 
Dry. 

No. 2. 

^ FOR CURLING WITHOUT PAPERS. 

Sodium Bicarbonate 1 dram 

Borax 1 dram 

Cologne Water 4 drams 

Alcohol 4 drams 

Tincture Cochineal 2 drams 

Water 6 ounces 

Dissolve the soda and borax in the water, add other in- 
gredients and strain. The addition of 5 grains of Fuchsin 
will impart a beautiful red color. 



70 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

To apply, moisten the hair thoroughly and the hair 
will curl upon drying. 

No. 3. 

The following preparation will be found very effi- 
cient, and its perfume is delicate and pleasing : 

Ammonium Chloride 30 grains 

Potassium Carbonate , ■§ dram 

Extract of Jassamine 1 dram 

Extract of White Rose 1 dram 

Glycerine 1 dram 

Alcohol 90% , . . . 4 drams 

Powdered Tragacanth 30 grains 

Water 9 ounces 

Triturate the tragacanth thoroughly with the alco- 
hol ; then add sufficient water and the glycerine to make a 
mucilage; mix in the perfume, and finally the remaining 
ingredients dissolved in the remainder of the water. Five 
grains of Fuchsin added to this prescription will produce 
a beautiful red color. 

Directions for Use : Moisten the hair, after which 
it should be adjusted loosely when it will curl on drying. 
A more pronounced curl may be secured if the hair is put 
up in papers or kids ; and the process of drying is hastened 
by the use of a curling iron slightly heated. 

5 No. 4. 

Carbonate of Potash 1 dram 

Water of Ammonia .' . 2 drams 

Alcohol , 4 drams 

Fuchsin 4 grains 

Rose Water 9 fl. ounces 

Mix and apply as in the preceding prescription. 



Hair Curling and Hair Straightening. 71 

Kinky Hair. 

Kinky hair is due to a flattening and twisting of the 
hair, which causes the hair shaft to assume a sharply bent 
form. It is manifestly impossible to make the hair per- 
manently straight unless the hair shaft is perfectly round 
and smooth. While it is not possible to remove the tend- 
ency of the hair to kink, we believe the continued applica- 
tion of the following preparation will materially aid in 
straightening it. 

Beef Suet 4 ounces 

Yellow wax 4 drams 

Castor oil 4 drams 

Benzoic acid 3 grains 

Oil of Lemon 15 drops 

Oil of Cassia 4 drops 

Mix the suet and wax, add the castor oil and acid; 
slightly cool the mixture and incorporate the other oils. 

Directions for Use: Rub preparation into scalp 
thoroughly with finger tips, after which the hair should be 
vigorously brushed. 

(This preparation is especially adapted for use by 
colored people.) 

Kinky hair is also straightened in the following man- 
ner: The hair should be shampooed and thoroughly 
dried. Beginning at the top of the head, separate a small 
strand of hair and after thoroughly saturating it with a 
good quality of hair oil, take a pressing iron which has 
been heated to the proper temperature and close it on the 
strand as close as possible to the scalp. Insert a comb 
in the hair a short distance from the pressing iron in 
order to prevent the hair from tangling, then draw the 



72 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

iron slowly toward the end of the strand. Proceed in like 
manner until all the hair has been treated. Care should 
be exercised that the iron is not heated sufficiently to burn 
the hair. This process, which will leave the hair with a 
slight wave, should be repeated as often as is necessary 
to produce the desired result. 






CHAPTER VIII. 

HYGIENE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP OF CHILDREN. 

Eighty- five per cent of Alopecia Praematura or Pre- 
mature Loss of Hair before the Age of Forty- five years 
is due to Ignorance or Neglect of the Laws of Hygiene, 
or to Improper Care of the Hair and Scalp of Children 
before the age of Puberty. A realization of this startling 
fact and what its future meaning is to one's boy or girl 
should awaken every parent to the necessity of a personal 
supervision of the hygiene of the children's hair and scalp 
if they would insure to them a healthy, attractive head of 
hair in later life. If you want your children to possess 
beautiful hair, give it your attention during their child- 
hood. See that their scalp is kept clean and in a healthy 
condition ; instruct them in the right way to brush, sham- 
poo and massage the scalp and hair, so that in later years 
you will be rewarded by their gratitude, and your chil- 
dren will possess luxuriant, healthy hair. Every normal 
child comes into the world with a rudimentary but abun- 
dant growth of hair ; and to conserve and foster this val- 
uable physical asset is the duty of every parent. From 
the Time of Birth, Hair Health Should be Promoted; not 
by the Indiscriminate Application of Lotions and Oint- 
ments to the Hair and Scalp that is Healthy, but by At- 
tending Promptly to the Slight Hair Needs as they Arise. 
Remember that Medication is not Required unless to 
Meet Special Conditions. The laws of hygiene should be 
observed and the proper knowledge that will enable the 
child to care for its own hair should be imparted. Pro- 
vide your child with a brush and comb for its individual 

(73) 



74 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

use and teach it to keep them clean. The average mother 
gives her child's hair a periodical wash and thinks her 
obligation ends there, when in reality this is a very small 
part of her duties. There is a correct way to wash or 
shampoo the hair, and the correct way of so doing should 
invariably be followed. Do not Permit Frequent Wetting 
of the Hair in Order that it may Lie Smooth when Brushed; 
or Permit the Indiscriminate use of Water on the Hair 
and Scalp for any Reason. One of the causes of early 
baldness results from the practice of frequently wetting 
the hair without perfect drying; and is due to the fact 
that water makes an emulsion with the scales of the skin 
and with the sebum, which hardens and plugs up the 
mouths of the hair follicles; thus sealing up those secre- 
tions in the scalp which should be thrown off, and result- 
ing in a loss of hair vitality. Much attention is paid by 
parents to the care of the teeth of their children and right- 
fully so; but the importance of healthy hair and scalp, 
when considered from a hygienic as well as cosmetic point 
of view, is totally neglected or entirely undreamed of. 
Explain to your child the danger of contracting scalp dis- 
ease by wearing other children's hats and point out the 
benefits of massage, following the method used in mas- 
saging the scalps of adults. 

If the future human race is to be adorned with 
beautiful, luxuriant hair, intelligent supervision should be 
practiced from infancy. In most instances this super- 
vision will consist merely in prohibiting certain injurious 
practices — such as too frequent wetting with insufficient 
drying of the hair — rather than the application of me- 
dicinal preparations which are not indicated. 



-j 



Hair and Scalp of Children. 75 

The Shampoo. 

At the time of birth the body of a new born child is 
covered by a sebaceous deposit which is more difficult of 
removal from the hair and scalp than from other parts 
of the body; hence the necessity for the first shampoo 
which should be thoroughly cleansing in its action. Prop- 
erly performed it serves as an insurance against various 
inflammatory diseases of the hair and scalp which might 
lead to a serious marring of hair beauty in after life. 
This is best accomplished by saturating the scalp with 
oil of sweet almonds, olive oil, white sterile vaseline, or 
any non-irritating oil of which these are good examples. 
Massage the scalp gently with the oil, after which it 
it should be thoroughly washed, using a pure soap and 
warm soft water. One such treatment is usually sufficient 
to remove all foreign matter from the hair and scalp; 
but if they are not left entirely clean by the first 
shampoo, the process should be repeated daily until the 
desired results are obtained. The application of a small 
amount of oil until such time as the scalp is covered with 
a protective growth of hair, is advisable to aid in main- 
taining the proper warmth of the head. For older chil- 
dren a shampoo once every two or three weeks is usually 
sufficient to keep the hair and scalp in good con- 
dition. It should be prepared and applied the same as 
for an adult. 

The Brush and Comb. 

When the hair has attained an appreciable growth, 
parents should be particular to provide each child with a 
brush for its exclusive use. Many cases of hair and scalp 
disease which result in baldness in later life are due to the 
transmission of disease by means of the family hair brush 
which had been used upon the scalp of the child. The 



76 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

brush best adapted for the care of the hair and scalp of 
children should have long, soft bristles which would per- 
mit only of a gentle cleansing and mild stimulation of the 
scalp. The correct method of brushing the hair is the 
same for children as for adults, and has been fully de- 
scribed. 

The Use of a Comb in caring for the hair of in- 
fants is unnecessary unless to meet the requirements of 
some rare special condition. The routine employment of 
a fine toothed comb may irritate the scalp and cause an 
eczema, while it serves no purpose not obtained by the use 
of a brush. Under no circumstances should crusts or 
scales be removed with a comb. If scales or crusts are 
present, soften them with oil and remove by washing. In 
older children a comb of proper form may be permitted. 
The hair of the small child should not be artificially 
curled, but worn straight and loose. 

Hair Cutting. 

In many cases the only hair cutting required will be 
the clipping of the ends of the hair, as short cutting has a 
tendency to coarsen the hair texture and should not be re- 
sorted to except for special reasons. For hygienic rea- 
sons it is sometimes best to keep the hair of children 
short until they have reached the age when they can in- 
telligently perform the ordinary services which the scalp 
and hair health and growth demand; but after that period 
the hair of girls should be allowed to grow, providing that 
under the changed conditions the rules of hygiene can be 
observed. While the texture of the hair naturally becomes 
coarser and the color deepens with age, yet we believe that 
frequent cutting has a tendency to hasten these changes; 
and the coarser texture, for which frequent cutting is 
partly responsible, is readily seen on the face in the ensu- 



Hair and Scalp of Children. 77 

ing change of fine, downy hair to stiff, thick beard — the 
result of shaving. 

The scalps of children are affected by the same con- 
ditions that produce the loss or disorders of hair in adults. 
The scalp should be carefully searched for signs of dan- 
druff, as it is of even greater importance to correct dis- 
eased conditions when occurring at an early age than at a 
later period of life. Oil should be applied if needed to 
correct abnormal dryness, or an excess of oil should be 
remedied if conditions warrant. If the ends of the hair 
are split they should be cut off below the cleft, and a sys- 
tematic course of medication with massage should be 
instituted. When the hair becomes strong and vigorous 
the rules of hygiene as laid down for adults should be 
followed. 

Eyebrows and Lashes. 

Particular attention should be paid to the cosmetic 
care of the eyebrows and lashes of children. While dyes 
or stains should not be used, every means to insure brows 
and lashes of correct form and abundant growth should 
be adopted. If needed, stimulating hair oils should be 
applied, and the brows thoroughly massaged. Any ex- 
isting irregular growth of hair should be corrected and 
trained to occupy its proper form and position after the 
method laid down for adults as described in the special 
chapter devoted to The Care of the Brows and Lashes. 



CHAPTER IX. 

HYGIENE OF WHITE HAIR. 

White hair is not necessarily the result of, nor the 
accompaniment of age; rather it is one of its compensa- 
tions. It is a natural law that the color of the hair must 
match the color of the skin and usually the color of the 
eyes; and whilst the transition from colored to uncolored 
hair is in progress, we find accompanying this change a 
softening of the facial features, a finer texture of the skin, 
and a change in shade of the complexion and eyes to har- 
monize with the changing color of the hair. As a direct 
result a spirituelle expression of the face is created which 
is enhanced by a framework of softly waved masses of 
white hair; and upon those whom the passing years have 
gently caressed it confers an atmosphere of refined beauty 
and distinction that no other shade of hair can impart. 

While the possession of beautiful white hair is re- 
sponsible for this new charm, it exacts as penalties for the 
proper preservation of its more delicate shade, greater care 
and attention than is demanded from the possessor of 
colored hair. More consideration should be exercised in 
the giving of massage, shampoos, and other details of 
hygiene, and keener discrimination exercised in the choice 
of scalp and hair preparations; but such care and dis- 
crimination does not mean neglect by withholding the de- 
mands of hygiene when needed, for fear of entailing in- 
jury. 

The fact that hair has turned white does not imply 
that it has lost its vigor or that it may not be of luxuriant 
growth. While we are accustomed to believe that white 

(78) 



Hygiene of White Hair. 79 

hair indicates the laying on of the ravaging hand of time, 
this belief like many others is not founded on physiological 
facts. The whitening of the hair indicates that a change 
in the chemical constituents and texture of the hair shaft 
has occurred, but not necessarily a lessening of the blood 
supply which is mainly responsible for the maintenance 
of hair vitality. Changes due to the lapse of time natur- 
ally occur in the hair and scalp as in the other structures 
of the body ; but nature provides as compensation certain 
rewards for the change of color, in order that nature's bal- 
ance may be preserved. 

General Suggestions. 

One must not forget that white hair requires care and 
nourishment to maintain its health and vigor; and that 
the proper treatment of white hair is based upon common 
sense. To acquire or maintain its greatest beauty white 
hair must be kept entirely free from foreign matter, with 
no hint of the yellowish tinge so frequently seen and which 
is usually the result of improper treatment. The greatest 
care in giving the shampoo is necessary in order that all 
waste products may be eliminated and that the color may 
not be dulled by the use of ill advised cleansing prepara- 
tions, or the hair broken through rough handling. Only 
the purest white soap should be used in preparing the 
shampoo mixture, and the few hair or scalp lotions suit- 
able for its preservation should be selected with the great- 
est care. Massage properly given is imperative in order 
that the vitality of the scalp be maintained so that the hair 
may receive sufficient nourishment to maintain vigorous 
health. Therefore, stimulate the blood supply to the hair 
roots by massaging the scalp, employing the correct meth- 
ods described under "Massage" ; using care of course, but 
Massage the Sealp! 



80 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

The larger portion of mineral matter found in white 
hair, together with the presence of the numerous cellular 
air spaces found in the hair shaft, render white hair more 
brittle than colored hair and explain why it requires more 
careful handling when being dressed or shampooed. 
Avoid twisting or sharply bending the hair or inflicting 
violence of any nature when using the brush and comb; 
and these articles must be kept absolutely clean of foreign 
matter which would soil the hair and mar its lustre. When 
shampooing be particular to avoid the use of hard water, 
or water that contains lime or iron, as the lime will be 
deposited on the hair and render it dull and lustreless, 
while the presence of iron will cause it to appear stained 
or streaked. Soft water that has been strained, or dis- 
tilled water, should be used if the best results are to be 
obtained. 

Choice of Soaps. 

There is not the wide latitude in the choice of soaps 
used in shampooing white hair that there is in cleansing 
colored hair. The ideal soap is pure and absolutely free 
from coloring matter of any description. A pure white 
castile soap is very good; but as there are many kinds 
of castile soap, and as not all of them are absolutely white 
or pure, one should obtain a guaranteed article. The use 
of an inferior or tinted soap may ruin the appearance of 
beautiful white hair by leaving it gummy, with slightly 
discolored streaks or patches, and a dulling of the lustre 
to which is due in great part its beauty. 

The Shampoo Mixture. 

The best shampoo mixture is of the consistency of a 
thin paste and is made by shaving the selected soap and 
dissolving it in hot water. This can be used alone ; or if 



Hygiene of White Hair. 81 

desired the whites of two eggs may be added to one-half 
pint of the soap solution and well beaten up; the latter 
making an ideal shampoo mixture for white hair. 

To apply, wet the scalp and hair with this solution and 
proceed in the manner described for the ordinary sham- 
poo; after which all traces of the cleansing agent should 
be most thoroughly removed by rinsing the hair and scalp 
repeatedly in warm soft water. 

Should the Hair to be Shampooed be Espe- 
cially Greasy the following method of shampooing will 
be found most valuable. First remove the excess of oil 
by drawing the strands of hair through a soft cloth 
(cheese cloth or sterile gauze is best) saturated with al- 
cohol or cologne spirits, or equal parts of lemon juice and 
hot water may be used in place of the alcoholic solution 
if preferred; after the excess of oil has been removed 
apply the shampoo and follow by several rinsings of soft 
water, and then by the tinted blue water to be described. 

The Use of Indigo. 

The addition of indigo to the water serves to impart 
a silver white lustre which can be secured in no other way, 
and should be applied by adding to the final rinsing water 
sufficient indigo to give it a slight bluish tinge, or by 
spraying the hair with the indigo water by means of an 
atomizer. Procure pure indigo for this purpose as the 
ordinary bluing used in laundry work will not give the 
proper tint. 

Drying the Hair. 

Only moderate heat should be applied to white hair 
and it should always be dried by hand, using soft, warm 
towels, or if desired gently fanned to hasten the process. 

6 



82 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Avoid the use of an electric dryer, as it is even more ob- 
jectionable in drying white hair than colored hair. 

Dry Shampoo. White Indian meal will serve 
all purposes best; it should be sprinkled over the scalp, 
gently massaged by the fingers, and then removed by a 
thorough brushing. On account of the changed chemical 
composition of white hair, and the diminished amount of 
natural oil, the shampoo should be employed only at rare 
intervals. 

Bleaching. 

The most beautiful color of white hair is the white 
silvery tint which can be acquired only when the hair is 
entirely free from a yellowish tinge and from foreign mat- 
ter. If the yellowish tinge is present it can be removed 
by a harmless and efficient bleaching agent composed of 
equal parts of lemon juice and hot water. In preparing 
this be particular to exclude any particles of the peel or 
juice of the peel. The scalp and hair should be thor- 
oughly saturated with the bleaching solution and covered 
with a warm moist towel which should be allowed to re- 
main upon the head from ten to twenty minutes; follow 
this by a general shampoo of selected soap and soft water, 
after which all traces of the cleansing agent used should 
be thoroughly removed by repeated rinsings in warm soft 
water; a final rinsing of water very lightly tinted with 
liquid indigo, or by spraying the indigo mixture over the 
hair with an atomizer, as described, will complete the 
operation. The hair should then be thoroughly dried and 
brushed with a soft brush. 

Application of Oil. 

It is often necessary that an oily preparation be ap- 
plied after the shampoo, since on account of the changes 



Hygiene of White Hair. 83 

in the hair shaft more of the natural oil is removed from 
white hair by the process of shampooing than from col- 
ored hair. The hair and scalp having been thoroughly 
dried, a small amount of equal parts of pure glycerine and 
rose water may be rubbed into the scalp ; or if vaseline is 
preferred, use only the fine white sterile variety. 

The Brush and Comb. 

The brush and comb should be used in the correct 
manner already described in the chapter on Hygiene of 
the Hair. 

Hot Curling Irons are especially harmful to white 
hair, and if hair tongs are used they should be but mod- 
erately heated and wrapped with white tissue paper in the 
manner described under "Hot Curling Irons", in order 
that too great heat may be avoided. Neglect to properly 
regulate the temperature of the iron may result in un- 
sightly discolorations and grave injury to the hair sub- 
stance. In many instances sufficient wave can be given 
to straight white hair by slightly dampening the hair with 
alcohol and loosely rolling it on silk curlers. 

Hair Tonics. 

The indiscriminate use of tonics or scalp preparations 
or oils should be avoided by the possessor of white hair. 
If a liquid preparation is to be used, apply directly to the 
scalp with a medicine dropper ; if an ointment, make fre- 
quent partings and apply, always massaging the applica- 
tion into the scalp with the ringer tips, avoiding as far as 
possible contact with the hair. 

In the choice of a preparation intended to meet the 
requirements of some particular condition a suitable selec- 
tion can be found in that chapter which treats of the sub- 
ject in view. 



n 



CHAPTER X. 

ALOPECIA— LOSS OF HAIR. 

Time was when any man or woman who used a 
preparation to increase the growth of the hair, or applied 
any agent to preserve or restore its original color was 
adjudged guilty of an immoral act. Today there is a com- 
plete reversal of sentiment, and the man and woman who 
neglects to use any harmless means at their disposal for 
retaining or restoring their youthful appearance, are the 
ones to be adjudged guilty; and rightfully so. 

Age is a relative thing, since it is a self-evident truth 
that an individual is as old as he looks. If you look old, 
you are old; and the ravages of time entail a condition 
that is to be remedied or deferred as long as possible. 
This may be accomplished by a close observation of the 
laws of hair and scalp hygiene to preserve the growth and 
freshness of the hair ; by the use of those medicinal agents 
which prevent the destructive effects of disease that affect 
directly or indirectly the hair and scalp; and by con- 
serving the strength and promoting the general health of 
the body. 

Proper massage to increase capillary circulation, to 
regulate the secretions of the scalp glands and to restore 
tone and vitality to the scalp and hair is an important part 
of hair culture; but it is only a part of the means to be 
used if the desired results are to be obtained. The scien- 
tific care and culture of beautiful hair lies entirely within 
the domain of modern medicine, which recognizes no fads 
nor faddists, nor does it admit that the means of obtain- 
ing healthful, beautiful hair lies in practicing the par- 

(84) 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 85 

ticular and limited methods of a favored few. The physi- 
cian who believes that hair strength and vitality is to be 
found in a bottle of medicine or a jar of ointment, is just 
as narrow and errs just as widely from the truth as does 
the professional masseur who thinks that the true means 
of bringing about these desirable ends is to be found only 
in massage of the scalp tissues, or as they are pleased to 
term it — "the practice of the Natural way to restore the 
hair." 

Each system has its truths and holds much that is 
good, at the same time containing much that is evil. One 
would not apply a tonic alone and expect the scalp to 
increase in strength and thickness, with an immediate 
growth of lustrous healthy hair, any more than one would 
expect to cure a scalp covered with diseased patches due 
to the dandruff germ or other morbid agents, and restore 
perfect health by the extremely dangerous practice of 
massage or so-called special scalp manipulation, while 
such diseased condition existed. 

The perfect treatment consists in taking only all that 
is good from the several different methods and combining 
them into one perfect whole. 

The practice of medicine, of which successful hair 
culture is a part, is based on common sense. There is no 
mystery about hair, no exclusive means of treatment, no 
royal road to beautiful hair. We believe that a few min- 
utes of your time daily, with careful observance of the 
laws of hygiene and the application of proper remedial 
measures as laid down, will insure hair that is natural in 
color and normal in quantity to practically the end of life. 

Alopecia — (al-o-pe-se-ah) — an abnormal deficiency, 
or a complete loss of hair from any cause; baldness. 

The loss of hair may be partial or complete, congen- 
ital or acquired, and slow or rapid in its progress. 



86 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Congenital Baldness. 

Congenital baldness or Alopecia Adnata, is that form 
of baldness which is due to imperfect development, or 
entire absence, of the hair producing organs. This form 
of baldness is present from birth, is seldom complete, and 
is very rarely found. An insufficient development of the 
hair producing organs can result only in very imperfectly 
developed fine hair, which grows in isolated spots or in 
thin patches over varying regions of the scalp. 

Treatment. 

If the scalp is entirely bald, the wearing of a wig is 
the only means for correcting this unsightly condition. 
Should there be a very fine growth of Lanugo hairs over 
the scalp, vigorous and persistent massage, with the ap- 
plication of stimulating hair tonics should be given a 
thorough trial. For this purpose the use of some one of 
the stimulating formulas given for the cure of alopecia 
praematura symptomatica will be found of great service. 
Failing to achieve satisfactory results recourse must then 
be had to the wearing of wigs. 

Acquired Baldness. 

It is with the acquired form of alopecia, or the partial 
or complete loss of hair arising from any cause, that we 
have to treat. There are several forms of acquired loss 
of hair to which specific names are given, the name indi- 
cating some peculiarity descriptive of the form or cause 
of that particular form of baldness to which it is applied. 

Alopecia Praematura. 

Alopecia Praematura, or premature loss of hair, is 
that form of baldness which occurs before the age of 
forty-five years, at that time when the body functions 
should be at their greatest vigor. 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 87 

Alopecia Senilis. 

Alopecia Senilis, or senile alopecia is that form of 
baldness which occurs as the result of a general impair- 
ment or complete loss of hair forming organs, due to 
old age. 

Alopecia Areata. 

Alopecia Areata is that condition in which suddenly 
or slowly, one or several patches or areas of baldness 
appear upon the scalp and parts covered by the beard. 

APOPECIA PRAEMATURA— EARLY LOSS OF HAIR. 

Of the following forms of Alopecia or baldness with 
which we have to do, Alopecia Praematura is by far the 
most important. There are two principal forms of pre- 
mature loss of hair. Alopecia Praematura Idiopathica, 
which seemingly results from no definite exciting cause. 
The scalp is apparently free from disease, the general 
health may be fairly vigorous, yet in spite of these favor- 
able conditions the loss of hair may be continuous and 
complete. Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica, or the 
other form of premature baldness is due to some local 
disease of the hair or scalp, or both, such as dandruff or 
eczema, or to some systemic poison or disease occurring 
either as a result of body poisons following such diseases 
as Typhoid Fever, or constitutional diseases, of which 
Syphilis is a good example. 

The Idiopathic Form of Alopecia begins before 
the age of forty-five years, usually in or sometimes before 
the early twenties, the loss of hair being constant and pro- 
gressive, and results in complete baldness if prompt meas- 
ures are not taken to restore sufficient vigor to the scalp 
to result in the growth or reproduction of stronger new 
hair. The loss of hair is usually most marked on the top 



88 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

of the head, beginning at the forehead and extending 
backward and downward. Frequently a small patch of 
vigorous hair is left at the top and middle of the forehead, 
and its preservation is due to the fact that it is located 
over the body of the Occipito-frontalis muscle where the 
scalp is naturally thicker and the blood supply is more 
profuse. 

It has been estimated that At Least Eighty- five Per 
Cent of All Cases of this Form of Baldness Result From 
Some Diseased Condition of the Hair or Scalp Which 
Has Not been Properly Treated; or to a Non-observance 
of the Laws of Hygiene of the Hair and Scalp of Children 
Before the Age of Puberty. In practically all of the re- 
maining proportion of these cases the loss of hair is due to 
an hereditary tendency. In this form of baldness we find 
the following changes occurring in the hair and scalp. The 
walls of the blood vessels lose their elasticity, and the 
caliber of the vessels diminish in size so that a lessened 
amount of blood is available for the nourishment of the 
hair producing organs; the connective tissue of the scalp 
becomes more fibrous in character and gradually con- 
tracts, thereby causing an atrophy or wasting of the skin 
cells found within the scalp. Consequent upon the loss of 
vitality of the hair producing organs, the hair is prema- 
turely shed. While this hair is succeeded by a new growth 
of hair, the new hair is finer in texture and of a weakened 
vitality. This process of shedding and new growth of 
hair is continuous, and each time the new hair growth 
becomes weaker and more delicate than the preceding one 
until there is a complete absence of hair. The fact that the 
loss of hair takes place much more slowly over the region 
of the Occipito-frontalis muscle, and that the hair of the 
beard is not effected because the under-lying tissues and 
blood supply are in a healthy condition, affords the most 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 89 

convincing proof of the great value of the observance of 
the laws of hygiene together with the adoption of remedial 
measures to stimulate hair growth and health. Generally 
speaking, a proper knowledge of the hygiene of the hair 
and scalp, together with the exercise of intelligent care of 
the hair and scalp of children before the age of puberty, 
is an almost positive guarantee that children will have a 
full complement of healthy, beautiful hair until those 
changes ensue which are the natural result of old age. 
Therefore in treating all cases of Idiopathic loss of hair 
in youth or adult, bear in mind that a very important part 
of the treatment consists in practicing the laws of hygiene 
of the hair and scalp, in addition to applying those reme- 
dial preparations which may be necessary to assist falter- 
ing nature. When shampooing observe in detail the 
proper method of giving it; always dry the hair thor- 
oughly and follow with the application of a hair oil if 
needed. Should the hair be dry and lifeless, however, the 
shampoo should be avoided altogether, or used but rarely 
to cleanse the scalp. Avoid the use of any head-dress that 
may bind the scalp. 

To correct the evil effects of the scalp changes which 
occur in this disease, it is of the utmost importance that 
massage be applied thoroughly and systematically. At 
least ten minutes each day should be devoted to massaging 
the scalp, after which a stimulating tonic may be applied 
by means of a medicine dropper and thoroughly rubbed 
into the roots of the hair with the finger tips. Hair is of 
slow growth, and if the natural vigor and normal quantity 
of hair is restored the patient must faithfully persist with 
the treatment. The earlier in life the hair begins to fall 
the harder it is to check. Fresh air at all times is neces- 
sary; digestive disturbances should be corrected; and the 
general health should be promoted by the use of tonics 



90 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

which will build up all the tissues of the body. Any liquid 
preparation should be applied a sufficient length of time 
before the bed hour in order that the hair and scalp may 
become thoroughly dry before retiring. 

Treatment For Alopecia Prematura Idopathica, 

Of the many drugs used for promoting the growth of 
hair, Pilocarpin is one of the 1 most widely used. It is free 
from irritant properties and stimulates practically all the 
glands of the body. It not only promotes nutrition of the 
hair, but also possesses the power of darkening its color. 
It is usually applied to the scalp in the form of a lotion or 
pomade, and formerly it was given internally. 

The following formula is much used by a celebrated 
French specialist who especially recommends it to correct 
the loss of hair so frequently seen in women. It will be 
found of marked value in remedying those cases of 
approaching baldness in which the hair and scalp is oily 
or greasy. 

No. 1. 

^ PILOCARPIN AMMONIA LOTION. 

Alcohol 90% 8 ounces 

Spirits of Lavender 6J drams 

Spirits of Ether 6\ drams 

Pilocarpin Muriate 4 grains 

Water, enough to dissolve 

Liquor Ammonia 1 dram 

Mix, and apply daily to the scalp with medicine 
dropper or rub into the scalp with the finger tips. 

No. 2. 

On account of the stimulating action of Cinchona, it 
may be combined with Pilocarpin to increase this property , 
in the latter. 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 91 

-n PILOCARPIN CINCHONA LOTION. 

Pilocarpin I dram 

Cinchona 2 drams 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 

Perfume to suit 

Mix. Apply to scalp as No. 1. 

No. 3. 

The following preparation will be found especially 
useful in treating a scalp that contains an excessive 
amount of oil : 

Tincture of Jaborandi 4 drams 

Quinine Sulphate 12 grains 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Cologne 1 ounce 

Bay Rum 1 ounce 

Rose water 5 ounces 

Dilute Sulphuric Acid 20 drops 

Mix. 

Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper and rub 
in with brush or finger tips. 

To Prepare. — Dissolve the Quinine in the Rose 
Water with the addition of the acid, add the other in- 
gredients and filter. 

No. 4. 

The following preparation has been widely used with 
much satisfaction. The Pilocarpin, Quinine, and Can- 
tharides are among the best agents for stimulating the 
growth of hair; the Resorcin is of especial value in the 
treatment of dandruff and falling hair; and the Menthol 
has a sedative effect after brisk rubbing. Apply this 
preparation to the scalp by using a medicine dropper. 



92 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Menthol , 4 grains 

Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 

Quinine Hydrochlorate 11 grains 

Fluid Extract Pilocarpin 2 drams 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Resorcin 18 grains 

Heliotrope Extract 30 drops 

Alcohol 2J ounces 

Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Solution of Chlorophyll, enough to give a beautiful 
green tint. 

Mix. Sig. — Apply as directed. 

Coal tar and petroleum oil were in the past used 
extensively in treating cases of premature baldness, and 
each of these preparations has enjoyed considerable repu- 
tation in promoting hair growth. Aside from the fact 
that they are extremely disagreeable to use on the scalp, 
in the light of present day knowledge their claims to use- 
fulness as hair growers are not borne out by facts. 

No. 5. 

A preparation somewhat similar to the following has 
been used with great success by an eminent English 
authority. It has yielded excellent results in our hands. 



Acetic Acid U. S. P 4 drams 

Pulverized Borax 1 dram 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Alcohol 3 drams 

Rose water, enough to make 8 ounces > 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp every other night and 
massage in with the finger tips. 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 93 

No. 6. 
The following preparation is an excellent stimulating 
hair and scalp tonic : 



Quinine Sulphate 8 grains 

Tincture Jaborandi 4 drams 

Tincture Cantharides 6 drams 

Eau de Cologne 3 drams 

Water . . . . 6 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Apply night and morning. 



No. 7 

This preparation is not so stimulating in character as 
No. 6. It is indicated when the scalp and hair is dry and 
brittle. 

Quinine Sulphate 20 grains 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Eau de Cologne 2 ounces 

F. E. Jaborandi 4 drams 

Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp three or four times a week. 

ALOPECIA PRAEMATURA SYMPTOMATICA. 

Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica or the second 
variety of early loss of hair is the result of some local 
or constitutional disease, whereby the nourishment and 
growth of the hair is interfered with as a result of dis- 
ease of the scalp or body. This form of baldness may 
occur at any time, its onset being dependent upon the time 
in life when the disease producing it is acquired. By far 
the greater percentage of this form of baldness is the 



94 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

result of some form of dandruff. The dandruff may be 
present in the form of fine, dry scales which may be almost 
imperceptible to the eye, or in large, thick, greasy scales 
as large as the finger nail or even larger, and adherent to 
the scalp. The scalp may be reddened, dry, and somewhat 
hot to the touch. The hair is dry with a tendency to split 
ends, and has lost its lustre; or the scalp may be moist, 
apparently thickened and greasy to the touch; the hair in 
this case containing an excess of oil, with a tendency to 
mat together. The scalp in both instances is irritated, 
the sensation varying from slight itching to positive irri- 
tation. There is a constant and progressive shedding of 
hair, together with a loss of vitality and size in the suc- 
ceeding growth of new hair. This process continues until 
the scalp is covered by a fine growth of downy hair, or 
complete baldness is established. The length of time re- 
quired for these processes to be complete depends upon 
the intensity of the disease and the natural resistance of 
the hair and scalp. 

Treatment For Alopecia Prematura Sym- 
ptomatica. 

By far the greater number of cases of Alopecia Prae- 
matura Symptomatica are due to the presence of the 
dandruff germ or some form of fungus. For the relief 
of this condition a preparation which will destroy germ 
life is necessary. If the dandruff present is in the form of 
fine, brany scales, the scalp should be thoroughly sham- 
pooed as described, and some one of the following local 
preparations used : 

No. 1. 

The following preparation will be found most ex- 
cellent : 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 



Bichloride of Mercury I grain 

Resorcin 2 drams 

Chloral hydrate 2 drams 

Castor Oil 50 dr0 P s 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces - 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp with medicine dropper, 
or rub into scalp with finger tips. 

No. 2. 

The antiseptic properties of this preparation are 
greater than No. 1. 

Bichloride of Mercury 3 grains 

Euresol pro. Capillis 2 drams 

Spirit Formicarium 1 ounce 

Castor Oil 2 drams 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily with medicine dropper or rub into 
scalp with finger tips. 

No. 3. 

This is an antiseptic, stimulating, efficient lotion. 
Perfumed with Rosemary it possesses a pleasing odor. 

Resorcin 90 grains 

Tannic Acid 80 grains 

Chloral hydrate 80 grains 

Tincture Benzoin 50 drops 

Castor Oil 3 drams 

Spirits Rosemary, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply as Nos. 1 and 2. 



96 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

These preparations should be applied to the scalp 
with a medicine dropper or thoroughly rubbed into the 
scalp with the finger tips once or, in severe cases, twice 
daily. It will be noticed that they contain Resorcin or a 
modification of Resorcin, and they should not be used on 
blonde or white hair on account of the property Resorcin 
has of staining the hair. The addition of twelve grains 
of salicylic acid to the preceding prescriptions will pre- 
vent the discoloration of blonde hair. 

No. 4. 

A French specialist of international reputation rec- 
ommends the use of the following. On account of the oil 
of cade which it contains, the odor of tar which cannot 
be disguised is perceptible. The preparation is efficient 

Oil of Cade 3 ounces 

Decoction of Soap bark i ounce 

Yolk of Egg i 

Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Add three tablespoonfuls to a pint of 
water and use as a shampoo. 

No. 5. 

If an ointment is preferred the following will be 
found most excellent : 



Ammoniated Mercury 25 grains 

Calomel 40 grains 

Vaseline 1 ounce 

Mix. Sig. — Rub thoroughly into scalp with the 
finger tips. 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 97 

No. 6. 

If the scalp is scaly and there are many thick, greasy 
crusts on the scalp apply the following: 

Salicylic Acid 20 grains 

Almond Oil 2 ounces 

Mix. Rub into the scalp at night, and wash scalp 
with soap and water in the morning. 

Repeat this process for several nights until the scalp 
is clean, when any of the preceding preparations may be 
used. After the scalp and hair have been entirely freed 
from all evidences of the disease, one of the stimulating 
tonics given in the chapter for Hair Tonics should be 
applied as directed. 

DEFLUVIUM CAPILLORUM. 

Defluvium Capillorum is the name given to that 
variety of Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica when the 
loss of hair is due to the effects of body toxins which in- 
terfere with the nutrition of, or directly poison, the hair 
papilla. The loss of hair usually follows an attack of 
some acute disease, especially Typhoid Fever; or some 
constitutional disease as Syphilis, for the cure of which 
mercury or Salvarsan has been used. Complete baldness 
rarely results; the hair more often becoming thin and 
scant with a loss of vitality, and a dull lifeless appearance. 

Treatment of Defluvium Capillorum. 

It will be readily understood from the nature of this 
trouble that observance of the laws of hygiene of the scalp, 
with the application of some mild stimulating tonic, to- 

7 



98 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

gether with the constitutional treatment by the physician, 
is all that is necessary to restore normal hair growth and 
health subsequent to an attack of fever, especially typhoid. 
It has been the practice in the past to close crop the 
hair or even to shave the scalp, in the belief that the hair 
cutting was necessary to a complete restoration of healthy 
hair. This is not true. Massage the scalp daily, shampoo 
only when necessary to insure cleanliness, and apply some 
one of the general hair tonics, formulae for which are 
given. 

Falling of the hair or baldness resulting from the 
effects of Syphilis is corrected by constitutional treatment 
which is best given by a reputable physician. After the 
active stage of syphilis has passed, massage should be 
regularly employed, and the scalp should be kept clean by 
the shampoo. If dandruff is present proceed with one of 
the preparations given for the cure of dandruff. 

PITYRIASIS CAPITIS— DANDRUFF. 

Dandruff is the most common cause of Alopecia 
Praematura Symptomatica, and we cannot conclude the 
subject of baldness without devoting more space to a gen- 
eral consideration of the cause and treatment of this 
disease. Pityriasis or Dandruff is that condition of the 
scalp which is characterized by a shedding, either scant 
or profuse, of minute brany scales which may fall to 
such a slight extent as to be hardly perceptible, or so pro- 
fusely as to powder the clothing. The scales may be 
white, fine and brany, or yellow, thick, and greasy in 
texture. The scalp usually atrophies or wastes away, and 
the changes in the hair and scalp as described under Alo- 
pecia Praematura take place. This disease may extend 
over a period of many years; or it may be rapid in its 
course and persisting, if remedial means are not adopted 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 99 

to check it, until the hair is entirely lost and complete bald- 
ness results. Dandruff, more than any other Disease is 
responsible for the greatest loss of hair. It is contagious, 
and one should be continuously on their guard to prevent 
infection. As has been stated, great care should be taken 
to avoid using any article or hair-dressing instrument, or 
any head-dress worn by another. Infection may be con- 
veyed from one person to another simply by sleeping in 
the same bed. One of the principal symptoms of dandruff 
is scalp irritation varying in severity from a slight itching 
to a severe irritation. 

There Are Two Forms of Pityriasis Capitis or 
Dandruff. The simple form in which the scales are fine 
and brany; and a form more chronic in nature, in which 
the scales partake more of the nature of thick greasy 
crusts. There is no question but that a form of bacteria 
is responsible for this disease. It is sometimes associated 
with other diseases of the scalp, especially Seborrhoea, 
with which it is frequently confused. 

Seborrhoea is that condition in which there is an 
excess of secretions from the Sebaceous and sweat glands, 
together with the formation of small waxy filaments which 
are found in the skin follicles. In these cases the skin of 
the face, especially around the nose and on the forehead as 
well as the scalp and hair, is usually oily or moist with 
sweat, and by pinching up folds of the skin many fine 
white filaments may be pressed out of the skin follicles. 
For the cure of this condition the following preparation 
may be applied to the scalp night and morning: 



100 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
* No. 1. 

Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 

Resorcin i£ drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 4 drams 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply with medicine dropper or by rubbing 
into the scalp with the tips of the fingers once or twice 
daily. 

Either of the Acetic Acid preparations or the Resor- 
cin Preparations given under the chapter on Alopecia will 
be found of much benefit; or the following will also be 
found useful: 

^ No. 2. 

Chloral hydrate I dram 

Resorcin 20 grains 

Glycerine -J dram 

Alcohol 5 drams 

Water, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply with a medicine dropper or by rubbing 
into the scalp with the finger tips once or twice daily. 

While the ordinary condition of dandruff is well 
known to people in general, the destructive effects upon 
the scalp, with the consequent loss of hair, are not so well 
understood. It is very important therefore that dandruff 
be recognized early and prompt measures instituted for its 
cure. The fact that it is so very common is proof of its 
infective nature. In treating dandruff, especially when 
the scalp and hair are very oily, the shampoo, using an 
antiseptic soap, can be employed with benefit at frequent 
intervals. A shampoo once a week or even oftener will 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 101 

be found beneficial, provided care is taken to thoroughly 
dry the hair. Alcohol can be employed to advantage and 
should be applied in sufficient quantities to wet the scalp 
if the hair is short. With women, if the hair is long as is 
usually the case, the hair should be parted and the scalp 
rubbed with a small sponge or piece of cloth saturated with 
alcohol. In case of very dry hair the application of an oil 
should be made to the scalp after the use of alcohol, or one 
or two teaspoonfuls of a good Castor oil may be added to 
a pint of alcohol and applied, as the alcohol will evaporate 
rapidly, and leave a deposit of oil. 

ALOPECIA SENILIS— LOSS OF HAIR DUE TO OLD AGE. 

In this form of baldness the loss of hair begins on the 
top of the head, proceeding from before backward, or 
from the back of the head, advancing toward the fore- 
head ; while the sides and back of the head may be appar- 
ently unaffected. Accompanying this condition we find 
gray hair or hair that is turning gray, together with other 
indications of diminished vitality. The changes in the 
scalp are due to atrophy or wasting, the result of old age, 
and have been practically described in the chapter on 
Premature Baldness. 

When there has been a destruction of the hair grow- 
ing organs due to old age, no treatment will create a new 
growth of hair. In this, class of cases the "ounce of pre- 
vention is worth the pound of cure." When symptoms 
of approaching baldness due to old age appear, the fullest 
vigor of the scalp possible should be maintained by mas- 
sage, together with the application of stimulating prepara- 
tions which directly effect hair growth; for it is to 
prevent the early loss of hair in Premature Alopecia, and 
to retain the hair as long as possible in Alopecia Senilis, 



102 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

that the practice of early prophylactic treatment is espe- 
cially valuable. The children of today are the men and 
women of tomorrow, and if they are to possess in later 
life the heads of hair which Nature intended they should 
have, a too early observance of the laws of hygiene of the 
hair and scalp cannot be practiced. 

Treatment of Alopecia Senilis. 

Apply a stimulating tonic as directed, and if the hair 
is dry, rub in at frequent intervals Almond oil or Olive oil 
sufficiently often to keep the hair soft and elastic. Avoid 
frequent wetting of the hair and resort to massage for 
ten minutes daily. 

ALOPECIA AREATA— BALD SPOTS. 

Alopecia Areata is that condition in which sud- 
denly or slowly, one or several irregular patches of bald- 
ness appear upon the scalp and parts covered by the beard. 
The loss of hair may be slow or sudden in its onset, and 
may or may not be accompanied by pain. In some 
instances there is a loss of sensation on the bald spots with 
an apparent change in the color or texture of the scalp; 
in others the denuded areas are reddened and a degree of 
irritation of the skin is present, varying in degree from 
a slight itching to a feeling of tenderness when the spot 
is touched. The margin of the scalp at the back of the 
head seems to be the favorite area for the loss of hair, 
although the bald spots may occur over any region. The 
number of patches may vary from one to a large number, 
and range in size from a fraction of an inch to four or 
five inches in diameter. The hairs around the margin of 
the bald spot are usually dry and brittle. This disease 
is usually of a chronic nature, with complete recovery in 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 103 

the end if the proper course of medication is pursued. 
When recovery occurs the patch is first covered by a 
growth of fine hair; at a later period the fine hairs may 
again fall out, to be succeeded by a patch of light colored 
hair which gradually grows darker in color and coarser 
in texture. The cause of this disease is not definitely 
known. It is thought by some eminent authorities to be 
due to the presence of a parasitic skin disease coming on 
at an early period in life. Alopecia Areata may also be 
produced by the ill advised application to the scalp of 
preparations which excite a localized scalp disturbance. 

Treatment of Alopecia Areata. 

Any constitutional defect or illness should be cor- 
rected by appropriate remedies to build up the general 
health. The local treatment is of the utmost importance. 
All the loose hair surrounding the diseased areas should 
be plucked from the scalp and stimulating antiseptic tonics 
should be applied as directed. One of the best prepara- 
tions in the treatment of this condition depends for its 
action upon the presence of acetic acid. 

No. 1. 

£ ACETIC ACID — CHLORAL HYDRATE LOTION. 

Acetic Acid crystals 4 grains 

Chloral hydrate 2 drams 

Spirits of Ether 2 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to the bald spot daily. Should 
irritation of the scalp ensue the number of applications 
should be decreased or discontinued for a time. 



104 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 2. 

^ ACETIC ACID — RESORCIN LOTION. 

Acetic Acid 2 drams 

Resorcin 1 dram 

Perfumed Spirit 1 ounce 

Rose Water 4 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp with medicine dropper. 

No. 3. 

^ ACETIC ACID — BORAX LOTION. 

Acetic Acid 2 drams 

Pulverized Borax 30 grains 

Glycerine 1 dram 

Alcohol 2 drams 

Rose Water, ,enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp every other night and 
massage in with finger tips. 

No. 4. 

A preparation somewhat similar to the following has 
been used and highly recommended. In many cases the 
normal growth and color of the hair is said to have been 
restored in a few weeks time. 

^ PILOCARPIN OINTMENT. 

Fl. Extract of Pilocarpin 3 drams 

Lanolin 6 drams 

Goose grease, enough to make 2 ounces 

Oil of Rose Geranium 24 drops 

Mix. Sig. — Rub thoroughly into the scalp at bed 
hour. 



Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 105 

Should the bald spot to be treated be elsewhere than 
on the scalp, as is sometimes the case, the strength of the 
remedy applied should be reduced from one-third to one- 
half. Electric applications to the scalp through the 
medium of the X Ray or high frequency current, or 
simple mechanical massage have been advocated by some. 
We have not found any special benefit derived from these 
methods of treatment. 



CHAPTER XI. 

SYMPTOMS OF BEGINNING BALDNESS. 

The average life of human hair varies from two to 
six years, dependent upon various conditions as stated 
under Physiology of the Hair. There is a constant shed- 
ding and new growth of hair during the life of an indi- 
vidual, and to know whether the balance between the loss 
and new growth of hair is maintained, it is well to have 
some method by which we can determine whether or not 
the shedding of hair is abnormal, in order that the proper 
treatment to prevent undue loss may be adopted. Hair 
that has attained its full growth and as we say has com- 
pleted its natural life, is shed as we have learned — in the 
following manner: The hair root is loosened from the 
papilla and gradually moves upward until the hair bulb 
rests in the middle follicular region where it becomes 
attached to the external root sheath; from which it 
receives sufficient nourishment to prolong its life for two 
or three months, when it dies and falls from the head. 
All hairs that live out their allotted span of life pass into 
this stage and are known as bed hairs, while the middle 
third of the hair follicle where the hair bulb finally rests 
in its passage upward from the papilla is known as the 
hair bed. During the process of separation from the 
papilla and passing up through the follicle, the bulb 
becomes expanded and knob-like. After remaining in the 
hair bed for its allotted time the knob-like projection is 
lost; and when the hair is finally cast off we see only the 
full rounded end roots. Hairs whose fall has been 
hastened by disease retain these knob-like, drawn-out 

(106) 



Signs of Beginning Baldness. 107 

ends; while the roots of hairs that have lived their nor- 
mal length of life present no such enlargements. 

To determine whether the definite proportion between 
hair growth and loss is disturbed as a result of disease, 
the following method may be employed. 

Thoroughly wash the scalp, and a week later collect 
for three days the hairs that are shed, putting each day's 
fall in a separate envelope; a month later the hair is to 
be again saved for three days and the amount and con- 
dition of the fallen hair compared with that of the pre- 
vious three days' fall. When the loss of hair is rapid, 
more hairs with knob-like roots and often with drawn- 
out epithelial projections will be found. The less this 
form of root is present the less the abnormal loss of hair 
is occurring, until only hairs which have the rounded, full 
roots are met with, which indicates that the abnormal 
shedding process has stopped. 

The following method has been suggested as a means 
of determining whether the loss of hair is excessive as a 
result of seborrhoea or dandruff. When the proportion 
of short hairs to the total fall is as one to ten, the average 
length of the hair being two to three inches, or as one to 
eight, the average length of the hair being five or more 
inches, the loss is abnormal. Growth of new hair is evi- 
denced by the appearance of new, fine hair which grad- 
ually becomes deeper in color and coarser and stronger in 
texture. 



CHAPTER XII. 

HAIR TONICS FOR GENERAL USE. 

A hair tonic may be defined as one of a class of medi- 
cines which gradually and permanently increase the tone 
of the hair and scalp by imparting new strength, cor- 
recting functional debility, and thereby restoring healthy 
and vigorous life to the scalp and hair. By its local action 
it should sterilize the skin surface and hasten the removal 
of the old horny cells from the scalp, regulate the secre- 
tions of the Sebaceous glands, promote the absorbtion of 
infiltrations, and restore to normal size, tone and activity 
the blood vessels and lymphatic channels. It should be 
convenient to apply, pleasing to the special senses, and 
should leave a feeling of freshness and sweetness of the 
hair and scalp after application. 

Commercial Hair Tonics. 

An analysis of many of the leading hair tonics indi- 
cates that practically all of them owe their claim of virtue 
to their local effect upon the scalp. Their use is usually 
characterized by a burning sensation, accompanied by a 
reddened condition of the skin, the effects of local irrita- 
tion rather than healthy stimulation. Tonics that produce 
an irritation of the scalp are harmful, and should not be 
used excepting in those rare instances when one is dealing 
with a parasitic disease of the scalp; and they should be 
discontinued as soon as the special purpose for which they 
were used has been accomplished. The usual hair tonic 
found on the market is made primarily to sell ; and profit 
to the manufacturer is the first essential of its being. 

(108) 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 109 

Advertising cost must of necessity be considered, fre- 
quently to the detriment of the medicinal value of the 
tonic, and one preparation must meet the requirements of 
a multitude of diseased conditions which affect the hair 
and scalp; that one tonic can care for all these conditions 
is manifestly impossible. With these conclusions in view 
we submit in this book a variety of formulae from which 
the selection of a proper tonic most suitable for one's 
individual use can be made. 

Individual Hair Tonics. 

Several formulae of practically every medicinal agent 
possessing valuable tonic properties are given, either 
singly, or in the most effective combination; each ingredi- 
ent having a definite action and serving a certain useful 
purpose. In addition to the principal ingredient there will 
be found in the various formulas other medicinal agents 
which furnish the vehicle, color and scent, or serve to 
enhance the action of those medicines which are the active 
agents of the prescription. Thus you may know the 
quantity and action of every medicinal agent used ; and if 
the prescription is properly compounded and intelligently 
applied, ideal tonic effects must result. The following list 
includes special formulae endorsed by or used in the prac- 
tice of the leading American, English, German and 
French specialists, and represents the latest scientific 
thought in hair tonics. The formulas are so described 
that the proper selection for one's individual needs can be 
easily made. 

Tonic Suggestions. 

Hair tonics should be put up in alcohol whenever 
possible, in order that the hair and scalp may dry rapidly 
and the hair may not be left wet and sticky. As a rule if 



110 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

the scalp is dry and scaly, ointments should be used. To 
properly use a hair tonic, remember that the object is to 
.apply it to the scalp and roots of the hair rather than to 
the hair shaft. This may be accomplished by means of a 
medicine dropper; by pouring the tonic into a shallow 
dish, and administering to the scalp with a small sponge 
or cloth; or if preferred, by dipping the ends of the 
fingers into the tonic and applying it direct. After 
application, massage it into the scalp, using the balls of 
the fingers, not the finger nails. 

If preparations are being constantly used for the hair 
and scalp a shampoo should be given at least every one 
or two weeks; after which the hair should be thoroughly 
dried and a little oil rubbed into the scalp. Split and 
broken hair is usually the result of injury to hair that 
has become brittle from lack of oil. To remedy this 
condition sufficient oil to render it soft and elastic should 
be applied. Hair that is abnormally dry should not be 
washed with soap and water. In the evening apply sweet 
almond oil or castor oil diluted with 20 per cent of alcohol. 
In diseased or abraded conditions of the scalp it is safer 
to avoid local applications unless permission for their use 
is given by a competent physician. 

Pilocarpin Preparations. 

Of the many medicinal agents used for promoting 
hair growth, Pilocarpin is one of the best and most widely 
known. It is of especial value in restoring a normal 
healthy condition when the hair is dull and lifeless and 
the scalp is dry, by stimulating the fat glands of the scalp. 
It also has the power of darkening the color of the hair. 
Pilocarpin, while expensive, we regard as of decided 
service. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. Ill 

No. 1. 

■o PILOCARPIN — CAPSICUM TONIC. 

Pilocarpin Hydrochlorate 12 grains 

Tincture of Capsicum 4 drams 

Ammonia water 10% 2 ounces 

Cologne 5 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning. 

No. 2. 

£ PILOCARPIN QUININE TONIC. 

Pilocarpin Nitrate 16 grains 

Quinine Hydrochloride 40 grains 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp with medicine dropper once 

daily. 

No. 3. 

£ PILOCARPIN CANTHARIDES TONIC. 

Pilocarpin Nitrate 4 grains 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Cologne water 2 ounces 

Imported Bay Rum 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp with medicine dropper once 

daily. 

No. 4. 

£ PILOCARPIN TONIC. 

Fluid extract Jaborandi 5 drains 

Quinine Sulphate 16 grains 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Eau de Cologne i-| ounces 

Distilled water 6 ounces 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp four times a week. 
Note. — Jaborandi is another name for Pilocarpin. 



r 



112 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 5. 

£ PILOCARPIN TONIC. 

Pilocarpin Muriate 18 grains 

Spirits Odorati 4 drams 

Absolute Alcohol 4 ounces 

Rose water " 4 ounces 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp with finger tips 
night and morning. 

Cantharides. 

Cantharides is widely used in the preparation of hair 
tonics on account of its stimulating effects upon the scalp. 
It increases the blood supply, thus augmenting the amount 
of nourishment which is carried to the hair roots. 

No. 1. 

^ CANTHARIDES TONIC OINTMENT. 

Tincture Cantharides 1 dram 

White Vaseline 2 ounces 

Oil of Rosemary 20 drops 

Oil of Lavender . 20 drops 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp night and morning. 

No. 2. 

^ CANTHARIDES LIQUID TONIC. 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Rose water .' 4 ounces 

Tincture of Musk , 5 drops 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp once daily. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 113 

No. 3. 

CANTHARIDES AMMONIA TONIC. 

Tincture of Cantharides 5 drams 

Water of Ammonia 2 drams 

Oil of Rosemary , 30 drops 

Cologne water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 

This preparation is the equal or superior of any sold 
on the market ; and at one-half the cost. 

Quinine Hair Tonics. 

In the realm of hair tonics Quinine enjoys an enviable 
reputation. When applied it has no effect upon the 
healthy skin; but it possesses germicidal properties which 
make it valuable, as recent scientific research has demon- 
strated, in the treatment of various scalp diseases, such 
as dandruff, which effect hair vitality. 

No. 1. 

QUININE — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 

Quinine Sulphate 15 grains 

Imported Bay Rum 2 drams 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 

Tincture of Cinchona 2 drams 

Water 9 ounces 

Mix, dissolve and filter. 
Apply to scalp once daily. 



114 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 2. 

QUININE BAY RUM HAIR TONIC. 

Quinine Sulphate 16 grains 

Glycerine 5 drams 

Cologne water I3 drams 

Imported Bay Rum 13 drams 

Tincture Cinchona ii drams 

Rose water 8 ounces 

Mix, dissolve and filter. 
Apply to scalp once daily. 

No. 3. 

QUININE JABORANDI HAIR TONIC. 

Quinine Sulphate 50 grains 

Fluid extract of Jaborandi 6\ drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 6J drams 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Imported Bay Rum 8 ounces 

Mix, dissolve and filter. 

Dissolve the Quinine in the alcoholic preparation and 
add other ingredients. Let stand for a few hours and 
then filter. Color and perfume to suit. 

Apply to scalp once daily. 

Hair Tonics Containing Oil. 

The combination of oil with medicinal preparations 
which have the property of stimulating hair growth and 
vitality, is especially valuable in treating those cases 
where the scalp is harsh and dry and the hair is brittle, 
due to a deficiency of natural oil. On account of its solu- 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 115 

bility in alcohol and its local effect upon the hair, castor 
oil is the most satisfactory of all oils used for this purpose. 



No. 1. 

OIL AND CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 

Castor oil 4 ounces 

Alcohol 9 ounces 

Tincture of Cantharides £ dram 

Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 

Oil of Rose Geranium 5 drops 

Red Saunders i drop 

Mix. Macerate for several days with occasional 
stirring and strain. 

Rub thoroughly into the roots of the hair every one 
or two days. 

No. 2. 

OIL AND QUININE HAIR TONIC. 

Castor oil 4 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 3 drams 

Quinine Sulphate 18 grains 

Oil of Bay 8 drops 

Alcohol 7 ounces 

Mix. 

Dissolve Quinine in alcohol, add the other ingredients, 
and stir until solution has occurred; then filter. A beau- 
tiful yellow color may be imparted by the addition of 
Tincture of Curcuma. 

Apply to scalp every one or two days. 



116 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 3. 

OIL — BAY RUM HAIR TONIC. 

Castor oil i ounce 

French Brandy 2 ounces 

Imported Bay Rum 2 ounces 

Oil of Rose Geranium 30 drops 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into roots of hair every one 
or two days. 

No. 4. 

OIL TONIC TO CHECK FALLING HAIR. A SIMPLE AND 
EFFICIENT TONIC. 

Carbonate of Ammonia 2 drams 

Oil of Bergamot 12 drops 

Sweet oil 8 ounces 

Mix. 

Reduce carbonate of ammonia to impalpable powder. 
Shake well before using. 

To check falling hair apply to scalp daily. 

Resorcin Hair Tonics. 

Resorcin having marked stimulating and antiseptic 
properties, has been much employed as a hair grower and 
scalp tonic, especially by the French specialists. In recent 
years it has acquired wide popularity in America, mark- 
edly for the treatment of Dandruff and Seborrhoea of 
the scalp. On account of its property of staining white 
hair, preparations containing Resorcin should not be used 
upon light blonde or white hair. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 117 

No. 1. 

RESORCIN — SALICYLIC HAIR TONIC. 

Resorcin I dram 

Salicylic Acid 12 grains 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Dilute Alcohol 8 ounces 

Oil of Rose Geranium 3 drops 

Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 

No. 2. 

RESORCIN — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 

Resorcin 50 grains 

Glycerine ij drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Compound tinct. Lavender 2 drams 

Imported Bay Rum 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 

No. 3. 

RESORCIN — WITCH HAZEL HAIR TONIC. 

Resorcin ij drams 

Water 1 ounce 

Witch Hazel 2 ounces 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 
This preparation is especially effective when the hair 
is oily. 



118 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 4. 

RESORCIN QUININE HAIR TONIC. 

Resorcin I dram 

Quinine Sulphate 20 grains 

Castor oil 1 dram 

Cologne water 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily with medicine dropper. 

Sage Hair Tonics. 

Sage has been used as one of the principal ingredients 
of hair tonics from the time of our fore-fathers. Long 
experience has proved its worth as a scalp stimulant and 
hair tonic. In combination with various other ingredients 
to enhance its action, as found in the following prescrip- 
tions, most excellent results can be expected from its use. 
Sage also has the property of slightly darkening the 
color of the hair. 

No. 1. 

SAGE NEROLI TONIC. 

Fluid extract of Sage 4 drams 

Tincture of Green Soap 4 drams 

Tincture of Red Cinchona 2 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 30 drops 

Glycerine 1 \ drams 

Chloral hydrate 1 dram 

Cologne water 1 ounce 

Oil of Bergamot 15 drops 

Oil of Sweet Orange 15 drops 

Oil of Neroli 3 drops 

Alcohol 2 drams 

California Brandy, enough to make 8 ounces 

Dissolve the Chloral hydrate in the Cologne water. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 119 

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add this to the Cologne 
water solution, and mix all ingredients. Let stand for a 
week and filter through Calcium Phosphate. 

Apply to scalp once daily. 

No. 2. 

SAGE BERGAMOT TONIC. 

Fluid extract of Sage 4 drams 

Tincture of Green Soap i-J drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 

Glycerine i-J drams 

Menthol 4 grains 

Oil of Sweet Orange 20 drops 

Bay Rum 1 ounce 

Oil of Bergamot 15 drops 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 

Dissolve the oils and menthol in the alcohol, mix the 
fluid extract of sage with the glycerine, tincture of can- 
tharides and bay rum. Mix the green soap with 2 ounces 
of water, adding it gradually with constant stirring; then 
mix all the solutions with water to make 8 ounces. Let 
stand for twenty-four hours and filter. 

Ammonia Hair Tonics. 

Ammonia water, singly or in combination, is a cleanly 
and efficient scalp stimulant and is employed with much 
satisfaction by many hair specialists. The following 
formula is of especial use in loss of hair so frequently- 
seen in women, and we recommend it as being especially 



120 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

useful in the treatment of loss of hair when the hair and 
scalp are abnormally oily and greasy. 

No. 1. 

I - FORMULA OF A FRENCH SPECIALIST. 

AMMONIA — PILOCARPIN HAIR TONIC. 

Liquor Ammonia 10% i dram 

To which should be added 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Spirits of Lavender 6 drams 

Spirits of Ether 6 drams 

Pilocarpin Muriate 4 grains 

Water enough to dissolve. 

Mix and rub thoroughly into scalp with tips of ringers 
at bed hour. 

No. 2. 

AMMONIA — CAPSICUM HAIR TONIC. 

Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia \ dram 

Tincture of Capsicum i dram 

Tincture of Cantharides 40 drops 

Resorcin \ dram 

Quinine Sulphate 3 grains 

Bay Rum 2 ounces 

Alcohol 3 ounces 

Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Perfume to suit 

Mix the Bay Rum and alcohol, and dissolve in the 
quinine and resorcin ; then add the other ingredients, allow 
to stand for two days, and filter. 

Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 121 

No. 3. 

AMMONIA — CHLOROFORM HAIR TONIC. 

Chloroform i ounce 

Stronger water of Ammonia i ounce 

Glycerine 6 drams 

Alcohol 5 ounces 

Mix. 

Brush scalp thoroughly and apply two or three times 
a week. If scalp irritation results, dilute preparation with 
water. This preparation is a superior hair tonic 

No. 4. 

AMMONIA — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 

Liquor Ammonia io% 5 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 3 drams 

Eau de Cologne 1 ounce 

Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply night and morning. 

This tonic is especially useful in checking falling hair. 

Mercury Hair Tonics. 

Mercury is one of the most efficient antiseptics used 
in medicine. For this reason it is widely used as a tonic 
application in treating scalp diseases of a parasitic or a 
fungoid nature. It may be used in the form of an oint- 
ment or as a liquid preparation. It is especially valuable 
when combined with resorcin. 



122 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 1. 

MERCURY-ALCOHOL TONIC. 

Iodide of Mercury 2 grains 

Bichloride of Mercury 5 grains 

Alcohol 10 drams 

Water 8 ounces 

Mix. Wash the scalp with soap and water and rub 
lotion into scalp two or three times a week. 

No. 2. 

MERCURY-GLYCERINE TONIC. 

Bichloride of Mercury 6 grains 

Water 5 ounces 

Glycerine 1 ounce 

Spirits of Cologne ij ounces 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp once daily. 

No. 3. 

MERCURY-RESORCIN TONIC. 

Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 

Resorcin 1 J drams 

Glycerine 1 J drams 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning with medicine 
dropper. 

Capsicum Hair Tonics. 

Capsicum is employed as a hair tonic on account of 
its antiseptic properties and for its power of stimulating 
the blood supply of the scalp. It is much used alone or in 
combination, to prevent abnormal shedding of the hair. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 123 

No. 1. 

CAPSICUM CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 

Tincture of Capsicum 20 drops 

Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Cologne water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily to scalp. 

This preparation will be found effective in prevent- 
ing falling of the hair. 

No. 2. 

CAPSICUM — QUININE HAIR TONIC. 

Tincture of Capsicum 1 dram 

Tincture of Cantharides J dram 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Quinine Sulphate 12 grains 

Rose water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix and filter. Apply to scalp once daily. 



No. 3. 

CAPSICUM TANNIN HAIR TONIC. 

Oil of Capsicum . 16 drops 

Glycerine 6 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Tannin 2 drams 

Rose Water 6 ounces 



Mix. Rub well into scalp twice daily. 



124 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 4. 

CAPSICUM — OIL HAIR TONIC. 

Tincture of Capsicum 4 drams 

Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 

Stronger solution of Ammonia 4 drams 

Castor oil . 1 ounce 

Spirits of Rosemary, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 

Pormicarium Hair Tonic. 

Formicarium is employed as a hair tonic on account 
of its stimulating properties, and has been highly praised 
as a hair tonic by some few who profess special knowledge 
of its properties. This preparation is much used in 
Germany. 

No. 1. 

Spirits Formicarium 1 ounce 

Resorcin 1 dram 

Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 

Castor oil 2 drams 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



Chloral Hydrate Hair Tonic. 

Chloral Hydrate is widely used on account of its 
stimulating effect as well as its antiseptic action upon the 
scalp ; and is much employed to stop annoying irritation or 
itching, for which purpose it will be found most excellent. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 125 

No. 1, 

« CHLORAL HYDRATE MERCURY HAIR TONIC. 

Chloral hydrate I dram 

Bichloride of Mercury i grain 

Resorcine 30 grains 

Castor oil 20 drops 

s Alcohol, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
No. 2. 

£ CHLORAL HYDRATE RESORCIN HAIR TONIC. 

Chloral hydrate \ dram 

Resorcin 30 grains 

Castor oil 15 drops 

Alcohol,, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning. 

Sulphur Hair Tonics. 

By many authorities sulphur is given preference over 
all other tonic agents for application to the scalp. On 
account of its insolubility it cannot be used in liquid form 
and must be applied to the scalp as an ointment. This is 
the great objection to its use. It is especially indicated as 
a tonic ointment — used either alone or in combination 
with other drugs — when the loss of scalp and hair health 
is due to parasitic disease. 

No. 1. 

£ SULPHUR OINTMENT. 

Precipitated Sulphur 1 dram 

B-Napthol \ dram 

Vaseline, enough to make 1 ounce 

Mix. Rub into scalp with finger tips at bed hour. 



126 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 2. 

SULPHUR RESORCIN OINTMENT. 

Precipitated Sulphur 2.\ drams 

Resorcin \ drani 

Vaseline, enough to make 3 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



No. 3. 

SULPHUR HAIR LOTION. 

Precipitated Sulphur 2\ drams 

Alcohol 3 drams 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Rose water 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp at night and wipe off in the 
morning. Shake well. 

No. 4. 

SULPHUR SALICYLIC HAIR TONIC. 

Precipitated Sulphur 2 drams 

Salicylic Acid 30 grains 

Resorcin 1 ounce 

B-Napthol 1 ounce 

Alcohol 3 drams 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

'Rose water 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply at bed hour. Shake well. 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 127 

Tannic Acid Hair Tonics. 

Tannic acid is the active principal of the vegetable 
astringents, and when applied to a part causes contraction 
of the tissues. It is valuable as a tonic for treating the 
loss of hair which occurs as the result of excessive sweat- 
ing due to too great secretions of the scalp glands, with a 
resultant moist scalp and wet hair. 

No. 1. 

£ TANNIC ACID BALSAM TONIC. 

Tannic Acid 90 grains 

Benzoic Acid 120 grains 

Oleo-balsamic mixture 3 drams 

Castor oil 2 ounces 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Mix, filter and apply to scalp daily. 
No. 2. 

-£ TANNIN MYRRH TONIC. 

Tannin 1 dram 

Tincture of Myrrh 1 ounce 

Glycerine 4 ounces 

Mix. Rub into scalp three times a week. 
No. 3. 

-^ TANNIC ACID RESORCIN TONIC. 

Tannic Acid 20 grains 

Chloral hydrate 80 grains 

Resorcin 60 grains 

Tincture of Benzoin 40 grains 

Castor oil 2 drams 

Spirits of Rosemary, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



128 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Arnica Hair Tonic. 

Tincture of arnica has been used as a scalp lotion. 
We cannot see that it offers any particular advantage over 
other hair tonics, but for those who desire to use Arnica 
the following tonic will be found one of the best : 

.3 No. 1. 

Tincture of Arnica 12 drams 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Spirit 10 drams 

Water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 

Tar Hair Tonic. 

Tar was formerly thought to possess the property of 
promoting hair growth. Modern research, however, 
shows that it possesses no especial advantage over other 
tonics, while it possesses objections which cannot be over- 
come. It is disagreeable to use, and it is impossible to 
permanently disguise its unpleasant odor by the addition 
of perfume. Its chief field of usefulness is found in 
treating a scalp in which the loss of hair is thought to be 
due to an excessive secretion of the sweat glands. The 
Oil of Cade or Oleum Rusci is the most effective means 
of applying it. An eminent French authority advocates 
its use in a combination somewhat resembling the fol- 
lowing : 

s -No. 1. 

Oil of Cade 2\ ounces 

Decoction of Soap Bark 1 ounce 

Yolk of Egg 1 

Distilled water to make 8 ounces 



Hair Tonics for General Use. 129 

Mix the cade and soap bark, then stir in the egg and 
water. Add three tablespoonfuls to a pint of water and 
apply as a shampoo one or two times a week. 

No. 2. 

# TAR TONIC OINTMENT. 

Oil of Cade 2j drams 

Adepis Lanae 2j drams 

Vaseline 2 drams 

Yellow Oxide of Mercury 15 grains 

Mix. Apply to scalp at night. Wear head covering 
and wash preparation off with soap and water in the 
morning. 

Crude Petroleum Hair Tonic. 

We cannot leave the subject of hair tonics without a 
few comments on the use of crude petroleum. This prepa- 
ration has enjoyed as wide a reputation for promoting the 
hair growth as any of the simple homely preparations that 
have been used in times past. 

While crude petroleum is beneficial in treating some 
conditions of the hair and scalp that are due to abnormal 
dryness, careful investigation has shown that its virtues 
have been very much exaggerated. It has not a wide 
range of usefulness, is not especially effective, and it is 
disagreeable to apply. There are many other medicinal 
agents which have more or less of a reputation in the 
treatment of falling hair which may or may not be due 
to diseased conditions of the scalp. While it is impossible 
to touch on all of the remedies advocated in the past, a 
bare mention of a few of them can be made. 

Croton oil has been used with some slight success, 
but its use is not recommended on account of its destruc- 
tive effects on the skin. 

9 



130 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Turpentine is sometimes used, but usually in com- 
bination. 

Carbolic acid has some advocates, but it should never 
be used stronger than a 2 per cent solution, in which 
strength it is useless as a scalp antiseptic. 

Tricresol, while it possesses some slight .antiseptic 
value, if used in sufficient strength to be of benefit causes 
too great an inflammation of the scalp. 

Chrysarobin is used but rarely, and generally in those 
cases of suspected parasitic disease of the scalp. 

B-Napthol is used in combination with other medi- 
cinal agents for its antiseptic effects. 

Grain Alcohol may be used alone or diluted with 
water when the hair and scalp contain an excessive 
amount of oil. 

Balsam of Peru has antiseptic properties and serves 
as a tonic and stimulant to the scalp circulation. 

No. 1. 

£ BALSAM OF PERU HAIR TONIC. 

Balsam of Peru J2 grains 

Oil of Bergamot 18 drops 

Alcohol 45 drams 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

HAIR OILS— BRILLANTINES— POMADES. 

Hair Oils. 

An efficient hair oil has a wide range of usefulness 
in the field of hygiene of the hair and scalp. The use of 
a simple oil is frequently indicated to supply a bland, non- 
irritating oil after the natural oil has been removed from 
the hair and scalp by the cleansing action of the shampoo ; 
and it is invaluable in the treatment of cases of scalp 
inflammations accompanied by dry and faded conditions 
of the hair with cracked and split ends. After the appli- 
cation of hair dyes its use is essential to render the hair 
smooth, soft, glossy and flexible. 

The preparation of fine hair oil is a simple operation. 
A pure, bland non-drying oil should be selected as a base, 
to which any desired medicinal agents and perfume may 
be added. The oils most suitable to serve as a base are 
pure olive oil, oil of mustard seed, oil of cotton seed, 
refined lard oil, or pure paraffine oil. If desired the hair 
oil may be colored yellow by digesting with curcuma. 
Annatto will produce an orange color. The addition of 
alkanet root in the proportion of one ounce to the pint of 
oil, will produce a beautiful red color. The proper method 
of applying hair oil has already been described. To secure 
the best results that method should be closely followed. 

No. 1. 

The following preparation will prove a very effi- 
cient and satisfactory hair oil for use upon a dry scalp and 

(131) 



132 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

dry hair. The addition of alkanet root will produce a 
beautiful red color. 

Castor oil i ounce . 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Color and perfume to suit 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into the scalp, after which the 
hair should be brushed. 

Castor oil has the great advantage of being soluble in 
alcohol, and this preparation can be made thinner or 
thicker as desired. 

No. 2. 

This prescription makes a very clear, beautiful 
hair oil. 

Pure Castor oil 4 drams 

Cologne spirit 3^ ounces 

Dissolve the oil in spirit. 

Rub thoroughly into the scalp, after which the hair 
should be thoroughly brushed. 



No. 3. 

The following is a very good preparation for increas- 
ing the growth of the hair when the scalp is dry : 

Sweet oil 4 ounces 

Oil of Lavender i dram 

Mix. Rub into scalp night and morning, and brush 
the hair frequently. 



Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 133 

No. 4. 

This hair oil is very popular, and is much used in 
treating thin and falling hair. 

Olive Oil 4 ounces 

Camphor 2 drams 

Dissolve the camphor in the oil by means of 

gentle heat, and perfume with 
Oil of Thyme i£ drams 

Rub into scalp at bed hour — and thoroughly brush 
the hair. 

No. 5. 

HAIR OIL FOR WHITE HAIR. 

Oil of Cottonseed 4 ounces 

Oil of Red Cedar I drop 

Oil of Geranium 3 drops 

Oil of Cloves 3 drops 

Oil of Citronella I drop 

Oil of Lemon Grass I drop 

Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp. Brush the hair 
frequently. 

No. 6. 

The following preparation is a very stimulating hair 
oil. Its use is indicated when a powerful effect is desired. 

Oil of Almonds 2 ounces 

Oil of Nutmeg i dram 

Oil of Mace expressed \ dram 

Mix. Apply as needed to the scalp and brush the 
hair thoroughly. 



134 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 7. 

„ nursery hair oil. 

Benzoin i dram 

Alkannin i dram 

Oil of Staves Acre 2 drams 

Almond Oil 5 ounces 

Macerate for a week with frequent shaking. 
Filter and add 

Oil of Ylang Ylang 4 drops 

Oil of Neroli 3 drops 

Apply as needed. 



No. 8. 

nursery hair oil. 

Oil of Staves Acre 4 drams 

Olive oil 2 ounces 

Mix. This makes a most excellent oil for use in the 
nursery. 

No. 9. 

Burdock hair oils have been used extensively with 
seeming satisfaction, but the following will be found to 
be an improvement over the Burdock Root hair oil. 

Fatty Oil of Mustard 4 ounces 

Lemon Oil 20 drops 

Oil of Bergamot io drops 

Oil of Cassia 4 drops 

Mix. Apply to scalp as needed, followed by a 
thorough brushing of the hair. 



Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 135 

No. 10. 
B hair oil for blonde hair. 

Oil of Cottonseed (yellow) 3i ounces 

Oil of Bergamot 2 drams 

Oil of Cassia i^ drams 

Oil of Cloves i dram 

Oil of Thyme (white) 15 drops 

Mix. Color with Annatto, if desired, and apply as 
needed. 

Macassar Hair Oil. 

In the realm of hair oil a macassar oil enjoys an 
enviable reputation. We submit one of the best macassar 
hair oil formulas. It contains benzoated oil, which is a 
very desirable addition and its perfume is of the best. 
While this is an expensive preparation it will be found 
worth all that is paid for it. 

» No. 11. 

Benzoated Oil 3 ounces 

Alkanet Root 1 J drams 

Cassia Buds i-J drams 

Oil of Cinnamon 10 drops 

Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 

Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 

Oil of Bitter Almonds 2 drops 

Digest the alkanet and cassia buds in the oil for an 
hour on a water bath, filter, and add the perfume. 

Directions: Rub thoroughly into the scalp with 
the tips of fingers. Follow by a thorough brushing of 
the hair. 



136 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Cocoanut Hair Oil. 

Pure cocoanut oil has enjoyed great popularity as an 
efficient oil dressing for the hair and scalp. It should be 
used alone, or in combination with some non-drying fatty 
oil, of which Olive oil or Castor oil are good examples. 
Castor oil has the advantage of being soluble in alcohol. 
All genuine cocoanut oils however, deposit on cooling, 
much of the cocoanut oil which they contain. An analysis 
of several of the cocoanut oils or cocoanut oil shampoos 
found on sale show that they contain but little cocoanut 
oil, some being merely green soap tinctures. 

The following preparation will be found practically 
free from the objectionable precipitate usually found, and 
when properly prepared is one of the best cocoanut oil 
preparations it is possible to obtain. 

* No. 12. 

Cocoanut oil 2 drams 

Castor oil 6 drams 

Melt together, and while still warm add slowly,, 
with constant stirring 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Perfume with Oil of Rose Geranium 6 drops 

Directions for Use: Rub thoroughly into the scalp 
with finger tips, after which the hair should be vigor- 
ously brushed. 

Note. — Any other perfume may be substituted for 
the Rose Geranium, if desired. 

BRILLANTINES. 

Brillantines are that class of preparations intended 
for application to the hair of the head and face in order 
to restore all the brilliancv that natural hair should 



Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 137 

possess. Its use is indicated on faded hair or hair that 
is abnormally dry, in order to bestow a natural gloss and 
render it soft and flexible. Just a few drops brushed into 
the hair with a small special brush is the proper way of 
applying it. The results obtained are beautiful. Too 
much perfume in brilliantine is not desirable. Just suffi- 
cient to give a faint, elusive odor is best. 

No. 1. 

This brilliantine will give satisfaction in every sense. 
It is agreeable to use and beneficial to the hair. 



Sweet Almond Oil 2 ounces 

Alcohol i ounce 

Glycerine , . 3 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 

Mix. Shake the bottle. 



No. 2. 

This brilliantine will not separate into two layers 
upon standing as will a brilliantine made from any fixed 
oil other than Castor oil. This preparation is everything 
that a good brilliantine should be. 

$ 

Castor oil 6 drams 

Alcohol 10 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium 3 drops 

Oil of Neroli 3 drops 

Mix and color with tincture of saffron or curcuma 
if desired. 

Apply as directed above. 



138 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

"The Huiles Antiques" imported from France make 
superior brilliantines when mixed with an equal propor- 
tion of alcohol. 

HAIR POMADES. 

At one time hair pomades were very extensively em- 
ployed. In recent years their use is considered not only 
bad form, but it is now recognized that their constant 
application will result in harm to the hair and scalp. They 
attract and retain dirt, and on account of the fat which 
they contain they frequently decompose, with a resultant 
characteristically disagreeable odor. This decomposition 
will create an irritation of the scalp, and disease is invited 
rather than combated. At the best they supply nothing 
to the hair and scalp which cannot be secured through 
other and more elegant agents. 

For the above reasons we have not included formulae 
for hair pomades, and unless there is some particular 
indication to exhibit them, we do not recommend their 
use. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

HYPERTRICHOSIS— ABNORMAL QROWTH OF HAIR. 

Hy-per-trich-o-sis — Superfluous hair; hairiness. 

Hypertrichosis is the name given to that condition 
where the growth of hair is greatly in excess of the 
amount of hair usually found in that location; or to a 
growth of hair, even though slight in amount, found 
upon those regions that are normally devoid of hair. 
Superfluous hair may be congenital or acquired, and is due 
to the fact that the fetal hair is not shed as it should be, 
but gradually grows thicker and longer, taking the place 
of the permanent growth of hair. 

Types illustrating this abnormal growth of hair have 
been met with in all ages and in all countries. Jo- Jo, the 
Russian dog-faced boy, whose entire face was covered 
with thick long hair, may be cited as a comparative modern 
example. Such instances of excessive hair growth are 
not of interest to us, but rather that form of superfluous 
hair found upon the face of women, which usually appears 
upon the cheeks, lips and chin, and is first noticed between 
the fifteenth and twenty-fifth years, the growth becoming 
darker in color and coarser in texture as time passes. 
This growth in the young consists of fine hairs inter- 
spersed with coarse, bristly ones, and differs from that 
found in older women, when the superfluous hair appears 
upon the face as a result of the menstrual change, and is 
composed only of the coarse, heavy variety. A growth 
of hair on the face also occurs as a result of surgical 
operations, or from the too free use of fatty, oily sub- 
stances upon the skin of the face. Blondes are apparently 

(139) 



140 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

more free than brunettes from the excessive hair growth 
on the face, but this may be explained by the fact that the 
hair of blondes is usually of finer texture and of a lighter 
color, and consequently is more difficult to see. 

Depilatories, Or Hair Removers. 

Depilatories are preparations used for the removal of 
superfluous hair. The safest preparation is usually a 
Sulfid or the Sulfhydrate of one of the alkalies or alkaline 
earths. The older preparations were made with caustic 
alkalies and were not so safe. The objection to these 
preparations is the disagreeable odor which they possess; 
the sulfid of strontium being the least objectionable in this 
way. These preparations are usually in powder form, and 
are made into a thin paste with water. After they have 
been applied in a thin layer to the skin and allowed to 
remain for a few minutes, they should be scraped off with 
a blunt instrument, the hair having been so softened that 
its removal is painless. These preparations should not be 
allowed to remain on the skin too long as they may cause 
an eczema, or even sores. To avoid bad after effects, 
cleanse the skin thoroughly and apply a bland oil. If long 
hair is to be removed it should be clipped short before the 
preparation is applied. Depilatories should be kept in 
colored bottles in the dark, should be kept tightly stop- 
pered, and should be freshly prepared as their efficiency 
is impaired with age. 

Treatment of Hypertrichosis. 

If the hair is very fine and downy, the frequent appli- 
cation of Hydrogen Peroxide will bleach the hairs so that 
they are hardly noticeable. 

Should it be desirable to remove the hair, this can be 
accomplished by the application of one of the following 



Hypertrichosis — Abnormal Growth of Hair. 141 

prescriptions. Depilatories are used to remove the hair 
not only from the face, but also from the arm pits if the 
growth of axillary hair is so abundant as to be unsightly 
when evening gowns are worn. 

No. 1. 
calcium sulfid depilatory. 

Calcium Sulfid I ounce 

Zinc Oxide \ ounce 

Starch \ ounce 

Mix and make a fine powder; add Oil of Pepper- 
mint or Lemon sufficient to disguise the odor. 

Directions: Make into a paste with water and 
apply lightly to the skin. Leave for ten minutes and 
remove with water. 

Calcium Sulfid may be prepared by adding a mixture 
of ten parts of finely powdered lime to nine parts of 
sulphur. Heat in a crucible below red heat and mix. 

9 No. 2. 

Barium Sulphide 4 drams 

Starch 4 drams 

Zinc Oxide 2 drams 

Mix a small amount with a few drops of water to make a paste. 

Apply to hairy part, leave on two or three minutes, 
and scrape or wash off. A clean, smooth surface will be 
left, after which a bland oil should be applied. 

No. 3. 

The following preparation is said to be much used in 
the East in removing hair from the armpits. 






142 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 



Orpiment ■£ dram 

Lime 4 drams 

Wheat Flour 2 scruples 

Hot water, enough to make a paste. 

Directions: Apply with a wooden spatula to the 
thickness of a ten cent piece, and allow to remain until a 
slight irritation of the skin is felt. Scrape off with a 
blunt edged knife and wash the skin with warm water, 
after which rice or starch powder should be dusted on. 

On account of the Arsenic contained, it should be 
used with caution. 

No. 4. 

DEPILATORY cream. 

The following formula for depilatory cream is largely 
used in some prominent Eastern hospitals for the removal 
of hair from the face or armpits or from the skin of the 
body, previous to operations. 

Barium Sulphide 3 parts 

Starch 1 part 

Mix. 

Directions: Trim off the excess of hair with the 
scissors from the part to be denuded. The mixed powder 
is to be made into a paste with water, and applied in a 
moderately thick layer to the parts. Examine from time 
to time and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, 
the mass should be washed off, and vaseline or cold cream 
applied. 

The use of depilatories is sometimes attended by 
more or less irritation to the skin, especially in the hands 
of the careless or uninformed; hence care should be ob- 
served in their use. 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE EYEBROWS. 

A proper conception of the cosmetic possibilities of 
the brows and lashes, with a fraction of the care that is 
lavished upon things of far less importance, will bring 
the most substantial and surprising reward. We confess 
with regret that modern medical care and cultivation of 
the brows and lashes has been entirely neglected even by 
the truly scientific specialist who, while advancing a few 
theories for the treatment of or for the prevention of 
disease, has failed to present even one helpful hint for 
taking advantage of the great promises, in a cosmetic 
sense, which their proper cultivation would extend. 

One cannot deny the great value of the teeth as an 
asset of physical beauty; yet reflection will show that the 
ideal, sharply defined, luxuriant eyebrows and long, curl- 
ing eyelashes, occupy the premier position as an aid to 
physical beauty ; for their value lies not alone in their own 
intrinsic comeliness, but also in producing that symmetry 
of feature which could not be created by any other means. 

The Eyebrows. The great cosmetic value of the eye- 
brow as an agent for softening hard facial features, and 
by contrast enhancing the beauty of the skin, is also evi- 
denced in creating a proportionate cosmetic value for the 
nose, brows, and forehead, and accentuating the contour 
of the face. This fact is unrecognized or unappreciated 
by the great majority of women, and is taken as a matter 
of course by practically all men, who accept the presence 
of this facial adornment in the same spirit as they do 

(143) 



144 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

their nose and ears — God-given and practically un- 
changeable. 

The Perfect Eyebrow is rather far away from 
the eye, is of uniform thickness throughout its entire 
extent, and should be so proportioned to the size of the 
face as to create an impression of a slender arched line. 
Too thin brows of a light color in a large face do not suffi- 
ciently emphasize the features, while thick, black eyebrows 
on a delicate face with small features give a sinister 
expression. The color of the eyebrows should be slightly 
darker than the hair, but intensely black eyebrows which 
do not harmonize with the color of the eyes and hair are 
unbecoming. 

Anatomy of the Eyebrows. 

The eyebrows are two arched eminences of skin and 
underlying tissue which surmount the upper circumfer- 
ence of the orbits of the eyes. They support a growth of 
short, stiff hairs called Cilia which are implanted at an 
angle in the skin, with the free ends directed outward. 
The hair follicles in the brow are not implanted so 
obliquely in the skin, and the papillae are proportionately 
shorter and thicker than are those of the scalp; while the 
sebaceous glands are larger and more fully developed, 
and the Erector Pili muscles which serve to elevate the 
hair of the latter are not found in the eyebrows. Move- 
ments of the eyebrows are dependent upon the action of 
the underlying Occipito-Frontalis and Corrugator Super- 
cilii muscles with which the integument of the brow is 
closely connected. The length of the hair varies from 
one-third to one inch, and the loss and regeneration of 
the hair of the eyebrows proceeds much more rapidly 
than the hairs of the head. Between the thirty-fifth and 
fortieth years there occurs, frequently in men and some- 



The Eyebrows. 145 

times in women, an over growth in the amount and a 
change in the direction of some hairs of the brows, the 
so-called "wild hairs'', which render them shaggy and 
bushy. 

Each brow begins at, or just above the base of the 
nose in the superior and inner angle of the orbit of the eye, 
and is continued as a fringe around the upper margin of 
the orbit, terminating at its upper and outer side. The 
quantity of hair in the brows varies greatly in abundance, 
length and color, in different individuals, and usually har- 
monizes in shade with the hair of the scalp and lashes. In 
many instances when the growth of hair upon the scalp 
and over the body is especially abundant, the eyebrows 
are heavy and connected by an isthmus of hair growth 
upon or slightly above the root of the nose. The form of 
the eyebrow is influenced greatly by race, though 
apparently unaffected by climate. In Europeans the eye- 
brows usually present a more or less curved line, conform- 
ing closely to the curve of the orbit; while in the Mon- 
golian races the brow is arranged in a straighter line, with 
the outer extremity more elevated and lacking the fuller 
downward curve usually found among the Caucasians. 

Diseases of the Brows. 

The same systemic diseases which impair the vitality 
of the hair of the scalp also affect the hair of the brows; 
so that we find in them a loss of hair following certain 
systemic diseases such as Typhoid Fever, or constitutional 
diseases, of which Syphilis is a good example. Pitiriasis 
or Dandruff is not so prevalent in the brows as in the 
scalp; and Seborrhoea, which the older writers confused 
with dandruff, is frequently found. The treatment of 
these conditions is practically the same as that for treat- 
ing similar conditions of the scalp. 

10 



146 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Agenesia Piliaris is that form of Alopecia, or loss 
of hair, which affects the eyebrows. It causes an imper- 
fect development of the outer ends of the eyebrows, and 
usually occurs before the age of puberty. The treatment 
to be followed is essentially the same as that given for 
the cure of Alopecia Areata. 

Ulerythema Ophyrogenes — scarred eyebrozvs — 
the result of disease. There are two forms — a mild and 
a severe. 

This disease is usually confined to the eyebrows, the 
skin becoming thickened and red, and followed by a more 
or less complete plugging up of the hair follicles. It 
begins in infancy and lasts through life if proper treat- 
ment is not adopted to correct it. It is said to occur most 
often in blondes. In the mild form the outer ends of the 
brows are affected, while in the severe type the entire 
brow, and sometimes the hair of the face is involved. In 
the early stages it results in the formation of fine scars 
which later may become so numerous as to cause entire 
loss of hair. It is best treated by Resorcin lotions, for 
which formulae have been given. 

Defects of the Brows. 

The defects of the brows are : First, Defects in Direc- 
tion of the Hairs, the result of irregular or faulty growth, 
due to an improper position of the follicle, which causes 
the hair to project at an angle either above or below the 
brow line, thus creating an unkempt appearance ; or to hair 
"whorls" or "cowlick of the brow" which is usually located 
at the inner angle where the hair is thickest. 

Second, Defect in the Quantity of the Hair. The 
inner angle of the brow usually contains a normal quantity 
of hair, the deficiency being manifested at, or slightly to 



The Eyebrows. 147 

the inner side of, the middle of the brow; the amount of 
hair gradually decreasing toward the outer end. 

Third, Defects in the Texture of the Hair. Usually 
accompanying the defect in the quantity of the hair is 
found a corresponding decrease in the texture, the hair 
shaft being so fine as to partake of the quality of Lanugo 
or downy hair. 

Fourth, Defects in the Color of the Eyebrows. The 
color of the eyebrows should be a shade darker than that 
of the hair of the scalp. The most common defect of 
coloring is that lighter shade which is a usual accompani- 
ment of the defects in the quantity and texture of the 
hair. 

Treatment. 

The treatment for correcting the defects in the direc- 
tion of hair growth can be summed up in the one word 
perseverance. Since the hair follicle from which the 
hair shaft -projects is placed in the eyebrow at an 
angle, and is responsible for the abnormal position of the 
hair, means to overcome this faulty position must be pur- 
sued. This is best accomplished by frequently stroking 
the hair in such a manner that the improper angle of the 
follicle may be corrected, and the hair whether arranged 
in the form of a "cowlick" or projecting outward from the 
body of the brow, can be trained to grow in the desired 
direction. It is rarely necessary to remove by plucking the 
hairs which project in a faulty manner if this process is 
diligently pursued. Accompanying the stroking process, 
the application of a hair oil will be found of benefit in 
maintaining the proper position of the hair. 

Defects in the Quantity and Texture of the 
Hair can be combated by stimulating the circulation in 
order that a richer supply of blood be brought to the hair 
papilla; and by the application of stimulating hair tonics 



148 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

and hair oils which possess positive merit for increasing 
hair growth. The best means for meeting the first indica- 
tion is massage, which should be applied in the following 
manner. With the balls of the fingers resting upon the 
brow move it, w T ith the underlying tissues, by a rapid 
vibratory movement in all directions, continuing the treat- 
ment until a sense of tingling and warmth is produced. 
Do not permit of any slipping or sliding motion of the 
fingers as this may cause undue strain upon the delicate 
hair root attachments to the papilla. After massage 
brush the brows with a soft brush. The best tonics for use 
are those which contain Pilocarpin, examples of which 
are found under "Hair Tonics'", since Pilocarpin is one 
of the few drugs which are known to promote hair growth. 
It also has the additional properties of slightly darkening 
the color of the hair. The oils selected should be pure 
olive oil, sweet almond oil, or white vaseline; or if an 
ointment is preferred it should be one containing sulphur, 
formulae for which have been given. 

The methods described for correcting defects in the 
quantity and texture of the brows may be used to correct 
defects in coloring, since the color deepens as the hair 
growth becomes more vigorous. Failing to secure by 
these means the shade desired, recourse must be had to 
the use of some one of the following harmless preparations 
which are advocated for staining or dyeing the brows : 

Methods of Application. 

For applying the dye or stain to the brows two 
brushes should be provided ; one for applying the dye — of 
a special thin, flat shape, about one-half to one inch in 
length and containing one or two rows of rather short, 
stiff bristles. A brush that contains too many bristles will 
gum up and become difficult to use without soiling the 



The Eyebrows. 149 

adjacent skin by accidental contact. If the proper brush 
is not available, use a child's tooth brush from which all 
bristles except the two center rows have been clipped off. 
If the bristles are clipped in this way it can be used with 
equal facility upon the brows or lashes without soiling the 
skin through the medium of a reversed brush. The second 
brush should be of small size for the purpose of removing 
an excess of the stain or dye after the application. The 
hair of the eyebrows should be entirely freed from oil, 
by washing after the manner described under the chapter 
on the preparation of the hair for the application of hair 
dye. 

Harmless Stain for Eyebrows. 

Of the harmless preparations used for tinting the 
brows, Potassium Permanganate in solution will answer 
most requirements. Potassium Permanganate crystals 
readily dissolve in water and when the resulting solution 
is brought in contact with any organic substance it oxi- 
dizes and imparts a brown color. The color appears at 
once, and according to the quantity of permanganate used 
all shades from blonde to darkest brown may be produced. 
While the Permanganate solution affects the bristles of 
the brush used in making the application, it does not affect 
the hair of the brows and lashes. Of course, the shade 
imparted is darker or lighter according to the quantity of 
Permanganate used in making the solution. 

No. 1. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Potassium Permanganate I dram 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Mix. Apply with small brush as needed. 



150 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 2. 

^ BROWN STAIN. 

Potassium Permanganate 10 grains 

Rose water 4 drams 

Aqua Ammonia 8 minims 

Water 11 drams 

Mix. 

Free the hair from fat or oil as directed and apply 
the lotion with a small brush. The stain will take effect 
immediately. 

No. 3. 

HARMLESS BLACK DYE. 

The following preparation has been widely used for 
dyeing the eyebrows. The dark color produced is due to 
the presence of carbon, in a state of fine division; hence is 
perfectly harmless. 

Gum Arabic | dram 

India Ink 50 grains 

Rose water 2 ounces 

Reduce the ink and gum to a very fine powder and 
add sufficient of the rose water until a black liquid results, 
which is entirely free from granules ; then add the rest of 
the rose water. 

Directions for Use: Free the hair from oil by 
washing, and when dry apply dye with a small brush. 

No. 4. 

chestnut or brown bismuth eyebrow stain. 

Bismuth is used in the preparation of stains for the 
eyebrows on account of its harmless nature. They are 
slower in action than some stains, and decompose readily 



The Eyebrows. 151 

on exposure to the light and air; hence should be kept in 
well stoppered dark bottles. 

Bismuth Subnitrate -J dram 

Solution of Potassa 10%. 
Citric Acid, of each sufficient. 

Glycerine 6 drams 

Orange Flower water, enough to make 2 ounces 

Mix the bismuth salt and glycerine by trituration, 
then heat on a water bath and gradually add solution of 
Potassa until the bismuth is dissolved. Then add Citric 
Acid until solution is only slightly alkaline, and add suffi- 
cient orange flower water to make 2 ounces. 

Directions: Apply as needed with a new tooth 
brush and comb. 

No. 5. 

BLONDE MANGANESE EYEBROW DYE. 

Solution A : 

Potassium Permanganate 40 grains 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Solution B : 

Sodium Hyposulphite 40 grains 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Wash eyebrows with the soda solution to remove 
grease, then rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry 
with a soft towel. Apply Solution A with a clean tooth 
brush and comb with a clean comb to evenly distribute the 
solution. In a short time cleanse the hair with clean water 
and brush with Solution B until color is lightened. If 
Solution A is used alone the color will be deepened in- 
stead of lightened, the depth of the color obtained depend- 
ing upon the frequency with which the solution is applied. 



152 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 6. 

GOLDEN HAIR SHADE. 

Remove grease from eyebrows by washing in the 
usual manner ; dry the hair partially and apply by means 
of a sponge or soft cloth, Hydrogen Peroxide. Brush 
brows with small brush to evenly distribute the bleach, 
and expose freely to the air. If a lighter shade is desired 
repeat the process once daily for several days. 

On account of the small proportion of iron which it 
contains, red hair is but little affected, while black hair is 
affected the most. 

In addition to the formulae given, the formulas for 
Bismuth dye given under Bismuth Hair Dyes may be used 
for the brows. 

Eyebrow Pencils. 

Eyebrow pencils or stick cosmetics are grease paints 
which contain animal fats in combination with vegetable 
oils and fats, to which are added some coloring substance ; 
the choice of the latter depending upon the color desired. 
The preparation is then molded into sticks or a pencil for 
convenience of application. The heavy grease of which 
tjhe pencil is composed is not removed by washing, and 
clogs the mouths of the hair follicles thus impairing the 
vitality of the hair. They mat the hair together, their 
use is easily detected upon close observation, and they 
would emit a foul odor were it not for the perfume they 
contain. However, for those who prefer a stick or pencil 
we submit the following formula which is one of the best 
of its kind. 



The Eyebrows. 153 

Ceresin 30 grains 

Petrolatum 45 grains 

Wool fat 45 grains 

White wax 60 grains 

Olive oil 2 drams 

Color to suit 

To prepare, melt the ceresin and white wax together ; 
add the petrolatum and wool fat, melt and add the oil; 
add a sufficient quantity of powdered talcum to the selected 
coloring substance to obtain the desired color, and incor- 
porate in the fatty mixture. The coloring substance used, 
depends upon the shade desired. Lamp black, animal 
charcoal, umber, sienna, eosin, carmine, and many of the 
aniline colors are used. The whole is then cast into molds 
of the desired shape and allowed to harden. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE EYELASHES. 

While the brows exert over the features in general 
a somewhat greater individual influence cosmetically 
than the lashes, the influence of the latter upon the eyes 
is proportionately as great, and much more subtile. The 
beauty of the eye, no matter of what limpid brilliancy, 
would be lost and would appear hard and cold were it not 
for the softening influence exerted by thick, curling lashes. 
The coquettish drooping of the lids, with the soft veiling 
action of the lashes, would seem horrible and grotesque 
rather than entrancing were they naked and bare of hair. 

One explanation of the total neglect or the improper 
care to which the lashes are usually subjected is ignorance 
of the laws of lash growth, together with a natural tim- 
idity in making local applications of any cosmetic prepara- 
tion from fear of injuring the delicate structure of the 
eye. These fears are futile, since a correct method of 
cultivation, with the application of harmless preparations, 
is so simple and safe when the proper knowledge of how 
and why is once acquired. To one who is aware of the 
cosmetic possibilities of the lashes as an adjunct of phys- 
ical comeliness, the apparent neglect of many beautiful 
women to properly take advantage of the cosmetic goods 
the gods have provided is difficult to understand. Apart 
from actresses and professional beauties who make an 
earnest study of every physical asset to enhance their 
charms, or the smart, cultivated women of discernment, 
the over-shadowing value of beautiful lashes is unrecog- 
nized, for by no other means is the possession of an artistic 

(154) 



The Eyelashes. 155 

sense made so apparent as by their proper cultivation and 
cosmetic care. One prominent actress who is the pos- 
sessor of long, beautiful, curling lashes, attributes their 
beauty to her practice of daily anointing her fingers with 
pure olive oil, with which she strokes upward and down- 
ward the lashes of the upper and lower lids. 

Anatomy of the Eyelashes. 

The hair of the eyelashes is similar in structure to 
that of the hair of the brows ; they are short, thick, curved 
hairs arranged in a double or triple row at the margin of 
the lids ; those of the upper lid, more numerous and longer 
than the lower ; curve upward ; those of the lower lid curve 
downward. Because of their curved form their beauty is 
not only accentuated, but the two sets of lashes do not 
interlace in closing the lids. The fall and regeneration 
of the hair composing the eyelashes proceed in a manner 
somewhat similar to the hair of the brows. The average 
length of life of an eyelash is about one hundred and 
thirty-five days, and as a result hairs in all stages of 
growth are found. The quantity of hair contained in the 
lashes varies, as does its color and length, in different 
individuals, even as the hair found in the scalp, brows, 
and over the body. Near the attachments of the eyelashes 
are the openings of the sebaceous glands, and of a number 
of enlarged and modified sweat glands. On the inner sur- 
face are the Meibomian glands ; and at the inner angle of 
the lids there is a triangular space in which we find a small 
papilla, the apex of which is pierced by a minute orifice — 
the commencement of the Lachrymal canal or tear duct. 
At the outer side the eyelids approach one another at an 
acute angle, and lie closer to the eyeball than on the 
inner side. Disorders of these glands at the margin of 



156 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

the lids are comparatively frequent, and exert a destruc- 
tive effect upon the growth and beauty of the lashes. 

Diseases of the Eyelashes. 

One often finds on the rims of the eyelids the same 
scale formation due to Seborrhoea as is found on the 
scalp, and it may be necessary every morning to free the 
rims of the eyelids from the small adherent scales. They 
are best removed with a little cotton dipped in luke warm 
water, to be followed by the use of the succeeding 
prescription. 

Sodium Borate 10 grains 

Camphor water i ounce 

Mix. Inject two or three drops in eye with a medicine 
dropper three times daily. 

This preparation will be found most excellent for 
hot, inflamed eyes. On account of the number of small 
glands which the lids contain, the lashes are subjected to 
the effects of glandular inflammations or to the presence 
of styes or small boils at the hair root. Such conditions 
should be promptly treated in order to avoid complications 
which may injure or destroy lash growth. 

Defects of the Lashes. 

The defects of the lashes most commonly met with 
are those of, first, faulty position. This may be the result 
of disease, an injury, or as a consequence of the improper 
angle of the hair follicle with the lid rim, which causes 
the hair to project from the normal lash line. The cor- 
rection of this condition is purely surgical. If the hairs 
project inward against the eyeball and are only one or 



The Eyelashes. 157 

two in number they may be removed by plucking ; if many 
in number, a slight operation will be required. 

Second, defects in coloring. The defects in coloring 
may be classified as follows: First, The Congenital 
Form, due to an entire lack of natural pigment or 
coloring matter from birth. In this variety the lack of 
color is uniform, and a color can only be obtained by the 
local application of a stain or dye. Second, The Acquired 
Form, usually due to accident or disease, and character- 
ized by the presence of one or more white hairs 
scattered throughout the extent of the lash. The 
acquired form is corrected by the treatment of the cause 
producing it, and by the plucking out of the white hairs 
in the attempt to force a growth of normally colored 
lashes. It is, of course, possible to color these white hairs 
by the use of stains or dyes that will not irritate the eyes. 

The Rules of Hygiene as laid down for the care 
of the hair and brows should be followed in the care of the 
lashes. Any inflammatory condition which tends to inter- 
fere with lash growth should be corrected. If the lash 
growth is slight or the lashes are dry with split ends, the 
ends of the lashes should be clipped off below the cleft, the 
eyelids cleansed with Boric Acid Solution, and warm Olive 
oil should be applied; or if preferred an antiseptic, non- 
irritating ointment may be used. Much has been said 
concerning the accidental introduction of an ointment or 
oil into the eye; should the usual harmless oil or ointment 
prescribed be accidentally introduced, nothing more than 
a momentary feeling of discomfort will result. 

The eyelashes are very important organs of protec- 
tion as well as agents of beauty, and their health should 
be conserved. Their loss is very disfiguring, although at 
one time the dictates of fashion decreed that the eyebrows 
and eyelashes should be plucked from the face. The 



158 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

results of this operation were so barbarous from a cos- 
metic point of view that to our best knowledge it is the 
only freak of fashion that has never been revived. When 
the eyelashes have been lost from any cause, attempts 
have been made to create the appearance of lashes by 
numerous little tattooes along the rims of the lids. Results 
of such operations, however, are very unsatisfactory. 
Transplantation of hair has also been attempted with but 
poor results. 

The treatment of defects in the coloring of the lashes 
resolves itself into the application of a harmless stain or 
dye, and the preparations used for staining the eyebrows 
can be used with perfect safety upon the eyelashes, pro- 
viding no diseased condition is present, and if care in mak- 
ing the application is exercised; for the delicate structures 
of the eye may be injured by the careless application of 
even pure water. The small brushes used in applying the 
dyes to the eyebrows may be used for a similar purpose 
upon the eyelashes. 

Method of Application. 

Two brushes similar in size and shape to those used 
in applying dye to the eyebrows should be provided. 

To apply — moisten the bristles with the liquid and 
apply only to the tips of the lashes as the fluid will spread 
over and stain the basal portions. 

This can be accomplished by holding the brush sta- 
tionary against the tips of the lashes and gently rotating 
the head; by sweeping the tips of the lashes across the 
brush in the act of opening and closing the eyes; or if 
preferred, beginning at the inner side of the lash and 
moving the brush slowly round to the outer angle, stain- 
ing the hair in its passage. Be particular to thoroughly 



The Eyelashes. 159 

stain the lashes of the inner angle. After the lashes have 
been gone over, close the lids sufficiently to bring the 
lashes in slight contact and retouch their ends if necessary. 
When the stain has become perfectly dry, remove any 
excess dye by brushing with a clean soft brush. Artist- 
ically applied in this manner the stain will defy detection. 






CHAPTER XVII. 

MUSTACHE AND BEARD. 

One of the distinguishing characteristics of the male 
sex is the growth of hair which first appears on the face 
at the age of puberty. At the same time the corresponding 
sebaceous glands develop and become more active. The 
hair growth on the upper lip is known as the mustache; 
while the hair on the chin and adjacent parts is called the 
beard. 

The hair of the mustache and beard seems to partake 
of the qualities of both long and short hair, their texture 
being coarser than the typical long hair of the scalp, and 
longer than the short hair of the eyebrows and lashes. 
The mustache if left uncut usually attains a length about 
mid-way between that of the hair of the eyebrows and 
the beard ; and while the average beard length is six 
inches, in some cases it has attained a length of several 
feet. 

The same general laws which govern the health and 
growth of the hair upon other parts of the body are appli- 
cable to the hair of the face. The presence on the face of 
a luxuriant growth of hair long after the scalp has become 
bald may be explained by the fact that it is of much later 
growth than the scalp hair; and that the face does not 
contain the fibrous tissue found in the scalp which by its 
contraction destroys hair soil. A stricter observance of 
the laws of hygiene made necessary to preserve its appear- 
ance, and the unexplained phenomenon of that influence 
which has been characterized as a "decorative impulse of 
Nature," are also factors. 

(160) 



Mustache and Beard. 161 

While the growth of hair on the face of the male is 
considered a badge of virility as well as a means of adorn- 
ment, when found on the face of the female it constitutes 
an abnormal disfigurement. 

The care and cultivation of the hair of the face has 
occupied much time and attention through the long ages 
of the past to the present time. Formerly an abundant 
hair growth was considered an object of veneration, and 
an oath sworn by the beard was sacred and binding. Later 
it lost its religious significance and was worn purely as 
an object of personal adornment. Today its influence as 
a cosmetic factor is waning, until the appearance of a 
heavy beard or a luxuriant mustache is rarely seen ; which 
fact serves as an interesting commentary on the influence 
of hygiene upon fashion. The mustache as worn today is 
close cropped or worn short with pointed ends, and does 
not interfere with oral or facial cleanliness. The beard 
if worn at all is closely trimmed. 

Aside from those preparations used to satisfy the 
hygienic demands of the hair of the face, and which are 
identical with those used to meet the requirements of scalp 
hair, the cosmetic applications most used upon the mus- 
tache and beard are those which serve to create and main- 
tain their desired form and position, or as a special 
dressing to preserve their softness and lustre. 

Stick Mustache Wax. 

Waxes for the mustache are much used abroad. The 
following preparations will be found useful in creating a 
lustre and in maintaining that arrangement of the hair 
which is most pleasing. 

11 



162 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 1. 

TUBEROSE JASMINE WAX. 

White wax i ounce 

Suet i ounce 

Tuberose pomade 3 drams 

Jasmine pomade 4 drams 

In preparing, melt the wax, add the suet, and then 
the pomades of tuberose and jasmine. 
Apply as needed. 

No. 2. 

ODORLESS MUSTACHE WAX. 

Spermaceti 1 dram 

White or yellow wax 7 drams 

Olive oil 10 drams 

Melt the spermaceti and wax, then add the oil with 
constant stirring. Apply as needed. 

These preparations are colorless. If it is desirable 
to deepen the color of the moustache, the addition of 
burnt Umber will give a brown color; the addition of 
animal charcoal or lamp black will give a black color. If 
a colored preparation is desired, yellow wax may be sub- 
stituted for the white wax. 

No. 3. 

MUSTACHE WAX. 

This preparation when applied to the ends of the 
mustache will preserve the fine points which so many 
desire. 



Mustache and Beard. 163 



White wax I ounce 

Lard 4 drams 

Venice turpentine 4 drams 

Gum elemi 50 grains 

Melt together with heat and then stir until cool. 
Apply as needed. 

No. 4. 

MUSTACHE DRESSING. 

This preparation will impart stiffness to the mustache 
and beard, and prevent that drooping weakness which is 
so objectionable. 

Mastic 1 dram 

Sandarac 2 drams 

Resin 4 drams 

Alcohol . . 2 ounces 

Ether 2 drams 

Perfume extract to suit 2 drams 

Mix and stir until a perfect solution results, then 
strain. 

BEARD LIQUID. 

Preparations for the purpose of imparting gloss to 
the hair of the beard, and maintaining a fashionable mode 
of wearing it are much used abroad. The following for- 
mulae are those most in vogue. The frequency of applica- 
tion depends upon the personal taste of the one using them. 
They should be applied by means of a small comb or brush. 






j 



164 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 1. 

BEARD LIQUID. 

Rose water 4 ounces 

Honey 5 drams 

Spirit 75 minims 

Capillar syrup 75 minims 

Glycerine 40 minims 

Salicylic Acid 2 grains 

Mix. Apply as needed. 

No. 2. 

BEARD LIQUID. 

Distilled water 3J ounces 

Spirit 6 drams 

Dextrine 75 grains 

Mix. Apply as needed. 



No. 3. 

BEARD LIQUID. 

1' 

Rose water 4 ounces 

Spirit 4 drams 

Dextrine 2 drams 

Salicylic Acid 7^ grains 

Mix. Apply as needed. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE PREVENTION OF GRAY HAIR. 

The various hues of the hair are due to the presence 
of amorpheous brown and black pigments which are 
grouped under the name of Melanins. We possess little 
analytical data about the composition of this pigment, and 
for that reason chemical research has not succeeded so 
far in creating a natural pigment in an artificial way. 
The source of this pigment is without a doubt the coloring 
matter of the blood; but the chemical changes which take 
place in producing it, are not understood. The pigment 
of the hair is created in a manner similar to that of the 
skin, where it is found only in those active cells of the 
corium or inner skin which are surrounded by blood ves- 
sels. It reaches the epidermis or outer skin by proto- 
plasmic movement, through the agencies of the oval or 
round pigment cells found in the deepest layer of the Epi- 
dermis, and which possess short branches that project 
downward into the corium. These branches connect with 
the pigment carrying cells, which convey to them the pig- 
ment that has been obtained indirectly from the blood. 
That the pigment is not obtained directly from the blood 
but is the result of chemical changes, with the formation 
of a new product called Melanin, which occur after it is 
taken, is proved by the fact that in its changed character 
it does not react to tests for iron as does Hemosiderin, a 
product directly obtained from the blood; and also that 
it is always found within the pigment carrying cells, while 
hemosiderin is found without. While these pigment 
carrying cells are true connective tissue cells, they have 

(165) 



166 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

been given a special name by some writers who call them 
Melanoblasts ; by others they are called Chromatophor 
cells. The pigment carrying cells which carry the 
coloring matter to the hair are found in the hair 
papilla, the cells found on the lower part and neck being 
large, while those on the top are small. The pigment 
cells are found imbedded in the concavity of the hair 
root which surrounds or encapsulates the hair papilla, and 
touch the surface of the papilla only with one side of their 
circumference. They possess branches which pass up- 
ward between the matrix cells of the cortex where they 
begin to harden. The cortical cells of light colored hair 
do not contain pigment, but those of dark hair contain 
grains of pigment which vary from a yellow to a blackish 
brown color. A short distance up in the hair matrix, the 
branches of pigment cells form a net-work which is in 
close connection with the cortical cells of the third or 
fourth row of the hair shaft. 

Means to increase the pigmentary deposit by stimu- 
lating the activity of the cells described have long been 
sought. Of the various drugs used for this purpose, 
Pilocarpin for some time was considered one of the best. 
Its use is attended with a marked stimulation of all the 
glands of the body, and it is free from irritant properties. 
It is applied locally in solution to the hair and scalp, or it 
may be given by hypodermic injection or by the mouth. 
There are cases on record in which it is claimed that the 
continued internal use of Pilocarpin caused the hair to 
become exceedingly coarse and to change its color from 
light to dark, but we do not believe that these claims can be 
sustained as a result of the conclusions based upon modern 
research work. While Pilocarpin is a most excellent hair 
tonic and stimulant and perhaps possesses the power of 
slightly darkening the color of the hair, we do not believe 



The Prevention of Gray Hair. 167 

it possesses the property of stimulating the deposit in hair 
to such an extent that its use will prevent the hair from 
turning gray, or that the original darker color can be 
restored through its influence. In the general chapter on 
hair tonics, pilocarpin has been considered and several 
formulae containing it in the most effective degree of 
combination may be found. Other drugs of this class 
might be considered, but the same general conclusions 
have been reached as in the case of Pilocarpin. 

Acetic Acid 

Of the drugs used which have some power of restor- 
ing the natural color to the hair, or to prevent the hair 
from losing its color and turning gray, Acetic acid in solu- 
tion is the most valuable. Acetic acid is an antiseptic and 
stimulant of a high order, and in the proper combination 
it makes an ideal hair tonic ; for which purpose it has been 
extolled highly by some of the most eminent English 
authorities in the treatment of falling hair and various 
scalp diseases. In addition to its local action on the hair 
and scalp it is the only preparation which has, to the best 
of our belief, any virtue for preventing the hair from 
turning gray by stimulating the activity of the pigment 
carrying cells, thereby increasing the deposit of the natu- 
ral coloring matter. We have used Acetic acid alone and 
in combination, with the utmost satisfaction in many cases. 

If the scalp and hair contains much oil, the amount 
of Glycerine or Castor oil in the following preparations 
should be diminished or entirely omitted. 

No. 1. 

ACETIC ACID HAIR VIGOR. 

This preparation is an efficient tonic and scalp anti- 
septic, and will stimulate the deposit of the natural color- 



168 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

ing matter of the hair. It is especially valuable when 
applied to scalp and hair that are greasy or oily. 

9 

Acetic Acid, U. S. P 2 drams 

Resorcin 1 dram 

Spirits Odorati 1 ounce 

Rose water, enough to make 4 ounces 

Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 



No. 2. 

The combination of Acetic Acid and Borax increases 
the antiseptic properties of this preparation. The medici- 
nal effect is the same as No. 1, but containing Glycerine, 
it should not be used on oily hair. 

ACETIC ACID BORAX HAIR VIGOR. 

Acetic Acid, U. S. P 3 drams 

Pulverized Borax 45 grains 

Glycerine ij drams 

Alcohol 3 drams 

Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 

No. 3. 

The medicinal effect of this preparation is practically 
the same as the preceding, with the exception that the 
addition of Red Peruvian Bark adds the virtue of a 
quinine tonic. 



The Prevention of Gray Hair, 
acetic acid — bark hair vigor. 



169 



Acetic Acid, U. S. P J ounce 

Tincture of Red Peruvian Bark i ounce 

Castor Oil I ounce 

West India Bay Rum 3 ounces 

Essence of White Rose J ounce 

Rub thoroughly into scalp two or three times a week. 



No. 4. 

This preparation is an efficient tonic and scalp anti- 
septic, its stimulative effects being similar to that of pre- 
scription No. 1. The addition of glycerine however, 
makes it more suitable for application to scalp and hair 
that contain but little natural oil. More glycerine may be 
added if desired. 

ACETIC ACID - RESORCIN HAIR VIGOR. 



Acetic Acid, U. S. P 3 drams 

Resorcin 24 grains 

Spirits Odorati i-J ounces 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

GRAY HAIR. 

Gray Hair — Canities (kan-ish-e-ez) , Whiteness or 
grayness of the hair; decoloration of the hair. 

Gray hair is caused by the partial or complete failure 
of the pigment granules to form in the papilla or in the 
hair bulb, and as the hair gradually grows upward it 
shows a gray or an uncolored hair. The lack of pigment 
alone would produce a yellowish white color; while the 
silvery or perfect white shade is due to the fact that there 
is not only loss of pigment, but also a change in the hair 
texture, so that small air spaces are formed in the cortical 
layer of the hair shaft which become filled with air and 
refract the light in such a way that the silvery white color 
is produced. This formation of air cells in the cortical 
layer is accompanied by a roughness or unevenness of the 
cuticle or outside covering of the hair, which assists in 
refracting equally to all sides the white light of the air 
cells. The varying shades of grayness depend of course 
upon the amount of pigment found in the cortex. 

Gray hair is usually considered as due to age, to some 
disturbance of the pigmentary deposit due to disease, or 
to some unknown cause which, while interfering with the 
amount of pigment formed, is not necessarily accom- 
panied by any apparent change of hair health. In some 
instances the hair may be gray from birth, when it is due 
to congenital defects of the pigment forming cells. Gray- 
ness may be congenital or acquired, partial or complete, 
and slow or sudden in its onset. 

(170) 



Gray Hair. 171 

Congential Gray Hair. 

Hair that is gray or white from birth includes all 
cases in which there is a congenital absence of pigment; 
as in the case of Albinos. In Albinism this congenital 
absence of pigment includes the entire skin surface, the 
hair, and the Choroid Coats and Irides of the eye. Owing 
to this lack of pigment without apparent change in the 
hair texture, the color of the hair is not modified by a 
gray shade, and presents a uniformly yellowish white 
color. In other instances the scalp is marked by the occur- 
rence of white patches of hair, usually round in shape and 
of large or small size. This form of congenital grayness 
seems to be due in part to the influence of heredity, as the 
gray spots frequently appear among several members of 
succeeding generations in certain families. 

Treatment of Congenital Gray Hair. 

Congenital gray hair, or hair that is gray from birth, 
requires the same care and attention to promote hair 
health and growth as normal colored hair. Since there is 
an entire absence of hair pigment it is of course impossible 
by cultivation alone to acquire colored hair. One can 
however, by the use of harmless modern stains or dyes 
produce a shade so simulating a natural color as absolutely 
to defy detection, and without incurring injurious conse- 
quences to the hair and scalp. Cases of congenital gray- 
ness are so rare, however, that the subject hardly merits 
more than passing mention. The rules of hygiene as 
described should be carefully followed out to promote the 
general health of the hair, and the selection of a suitable 
stain can be made from those given for staining and dyeing 
acquired gray hair. 



172 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Acquired Gray Hair. 

Acquired gray hair is divided into two classes. Pre- 
mature gray hair, or hair that begins to turn gray before 
the fortieth or forty-fifth year; and senile gray hair, or 
hair that has become gray as a result of the changes coin- 
cident with age. Many authorities comment on the differ- 
ence in texture which they believe exists between prema- 
ture and senile gray hair, asserting that the texture of 
premature gray hair is coarser, with a rougher surface 
than that possessed by normal hair; while in the senile 
gray hair there exists no difference in texture as a result 
of the change from colored to uncolored hairs. Insomuch 
as the color of acquired senile white hair is due not only 
to a loss of pigment, but also to the presence in the Cortex 
of air cells filled with air, and to an unevenness of the 
hair shaft, it is my belief that hair which turns white in 
adult life from any cause, presents a larger, coarser, and 
slightly rougher hair shaft than the original colored hair. 

In the acquired form of gray hair the change from 
colored to uncolored hairs proceeds more or less rapidly, 
and is seemingly affected through hereditary influence, by 
the texture and color of the individual hair, and by acci- 
dent or disease. In the acquired form apparently not in- 
fluenced by accident or disease, the hair of the temples is 
usually affected first, the grayness gradually spreading 
over the sides and top of the head, although this process 
may begin over any part of the scalp. The grayness usu- 
ally appears first at the roots of the hair. The darker the 
original color of the hair, the more apt it is to turn gray, 
and earlier in life than hair of lighter shades. 

Many instances are on record where the hair sud- 
denly turned gray from shock, fright, or sickness; but the 
acquired gray or white color is usually due to some disor- 



Gray Hair. 173 

der of nutrition of the hair papilla which interferes with 
the function, or the natural deposition of the hair pigment, 
together with an accompanying change in hair texture. 
The pigment forming power alone may be affected, the 
papilla in all other respects being normal and the general 
health of the hair and the color of the scalp remaining 
unchanged. 

There is no Direct Connection Between Gray Hair 
and Falling Hair, if the Grayness is not Due to Some Dis- 
eased Condition, or to the Natural Changes Due to Age. 
As stated, heredity is an important factor in the causation 
of acquired gray hair, the members of some families 
almost without exception turning gray early in life. Gray 
hair is more common among men than women; and 
chronic diseases, excesses, nervous irritability, constant 
exposure of the hair to extremes of heat and cold; the 
frequent wetting and incomplete drying of the scalp, espe- 
cially if cold water be used; or any cause which lowers 
the body vitality, such as early menstrual change in 
women, may cause gray hair. 

Treatment of Acquired Gray Hair. 

Gray hair which is the result of either constitutional 
or local disease or both, can be greatly benefited by adopt- 
ing those means to acquire and maintain the fullest vigor 
of the body. If constitutional disease is present the use of 
iron, phosphorus and sulphur, either alone or in conjunc- 
tion with other and appropriate remedial agents is recom- 
mended, especially if there is a marked physical debility. 

Individuals who are predisposed to gray or falling 
hair can accomplish much by practicing systematic mas- 
sage, together with the use of specific remedial agents, to 
preserve the texture and color, as well as to stimulate the 
growth, of new hair. Massage action serves to increase 



174 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

the blood supply, thereby increasing the nourishment 
of the hair; the functions of all the glandular struc- 
tures in the scalp are regulated, promoting hair health; 
and the elimination of waste and poisonous matters from 
the scalp is hastened. The medicinal applications must of 
necessity be devoid of harmful effects when applied to the 
hair and skin ; and must prevent or cure the ravage of dis- 
eases which effect the health of the hair papilla, and supply 
the natural elements when absent, which conserve the 
strength of the old hair and assist in stimulating the 
growth and coloring of the new hair. The proper method 
of shampooing the hair and scalp should be followed, and 
a selection of the proper bleaching, staining, or dyeing 
preparations may be made from the wide range of for- 
mulae found in the following pages. 



CHAPTER XX. 

BLEACHING THE HAIR. 

Bleaching the hair is that process by which the nat- 
ural pigment that gives color to the hair is removed wholly 
or in part by some bleaching agent, thereby producing a 
lighter shade. The color of the hair may be lightened by 
bleaching, or by the application of a dye, in which case a 
bleaching agent must be used to decolorize the hair before 
its application, in order that one may secure a uniform 
shade, and to permit of its perfect penetration. The 
bleaching process is not necessary to obtain a darker color, 
and for this reason hair restorers enjoy a wide popularity 
since by their action they restore gray, faded hair to its 
original darker color. 

The process of bleaching is accomplished by the em- 
ployment of various bleaching agents; and washing the 
hair in a Carbonate of Soda solution, or a Soda solution 
to which a few drops of Ammonia have been added, has 
been widely used. The application of lemon juice and hot 
water has also found favor, especially in removing the yel- 
lowish color and creating the white, lustrous tint in white 
hair ; under which subject the method of using is treated at 
length. Another, but inferior way of applying lemon juice 
is to entirely remove the peel from the lemon, divide it into 
sections, and apply the juice directly from the cut surface 
by rubbing it upon the hair and scalp. If all the rind is 
not removed slightly discolored streaks may result. 

Lemon Juice Hair Bleach. 

The lemon juice treatment will lighten the color of 
Blonde, Chestnut, or Brown Hair, and is harmless if not 

(175) 



176 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

used to excess — its application once in from three to four 
weeks is usually enough. To lighten the shade, first 
shampoo with soap and water and while the hair is still 
moist and warm saturate it with lemon juice which should 
be allowed to remain for ten or fifteen minutes. During 
this time the warmth of the scalp may be maintained by 
wrapping it in a warm towel; follow this by rinsing the 
hair with warm soft water and dry in the sun, using warm 
soft towels with repeated shaking to assist the drying 
process. 

Peroxide of Hydrogen is the most active single 
agent for bleaching the hair. The objections to its use are 
that it has a tendency to make the hair dry and brittle. It 
may be used in full strength, diluted with water, or with 
the addition of a few drops of chemically pure Ammonia, 
the strength being dependent upon the texture of the hair 
and the shade desired. To change the shade of black or 
dark brown hair into a chestnut or auburn by the bleaching 
process, a full strength solution of a reliable peroxide must 
be used; if to this solution a few drops of chemically pure 
ammonia is added a golden hair shade will result. For 
hair of a lighter shade, or for very fine hair, a diluted solu- 
tion of peroxide to which ammonia may or may not be 
added would be required. 

Very rapid bleaching due to the too frequent applica- 
tion of peroxide, or the use of a very strong peroxide 
solution to which ammonia in excess has been added, will 
result in dry, brittle hair. When ammonia is used it 
should be chemically pure and not greater in proportion 
than one to twenty of peroxide. The first application 
should result in changing the shade of black to dark chest- 
nut; dark brown to light chestnut; brown to golden 
brown; light brown to light golden; and dark blonde to 



Bleaching the Hair. 177 

light blonde. After the application of peroxide of hydro- 
gen the hair should be shampooed, else the decoloration 
will continue for several days, resulting in failure to 
obtain the exact shade desired and injurious consequences 
to the hair. Before applying any bleaching agent or dye 
the hair should be rendered absolutely clean by a thorough 
shampoo, in order to remove all traces of oil or foreign 
matter. Occasionally the action of a bleaching agent or 
dye is not uniform ; this is usually due to the fact that the 
hair has not been thoroughly cleansed of oil, with a con- 
sequent failure of the bleaching agent or dye to penetrate 
the hair shaft, or to the fact that the soap used in the 
shampoo mixture was impure. The best shampoo mixture 
is made from pure white soap and water and applied in 
the manner described under The Shampoo. To this may 
be added a teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda to a pint of 
the shampoo mixture if the hair and scalp contain much 
oil. Remove all oil by repeated rubbing and rinsing, and 
to the final rinse water a little Acetic Acid or lemon juice 
is sometimes added. Complete the shampoo by thoroughly 
drying the hair and scalp with warm, soft towels. 

Method of Applying Peroxide of Hydrogen. 

Separate the hair into four sections by making the 
first parting from front to back along the middle line of 
the scalp; the second part should be made across the top 
of the head from ear to ear; then subdivide each quarter 
section into half-inch sections. If other ingredients are 
added to the peroxide, a quantity sufficient to complete the 
bleaching process should be made before the application, 
in order that the bleaching agent may be of uniform 
strength. Pour a small quantity of the bleaching agent in 
a saucer and apply to the hair by means of a tooth brush, 
or any other small brush desired ; and begin by making the 

12 



178 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

first application to the front hair as the hair here is more 
difficult to treat. The brush should not contain an excess 
of liquid as the application must be evenly made, and the 
hair so held that any excess fluid will flow toward the 
scalp ; otherwise the hair points may be of a lighter shade 
than the roots. Combing the hair with a fine toothed comb 
aids in obtaining an even distribution of the liquid and 
exposes it more thoroughly to the action of the air. After 
the hair is dry it may be retouched as needed, then a final 
drying, after which it should be again washed. 

To Bleach the Roots of the Hair. 

Divide the hair into small sections as directed, and 
make a knot in the hair a short distance from the scalp to 
prevent the liquid running toward the ends ; then apply the 
peroxide on both sides of the divided sections. The per- 
oxide should be left on the roots for ten or fifteen minutes 
before drying. Cold, hard water should never be used 
when preparing the hair for bleaching as a deposit of lime 
or iron may be left which would interfere with the 
decolorizing. 

Red hair is but little affected by the bleach because of 
the small proportion of iron present. Black hair is 
affected the most. 

To impart a bright lustre to faded hair the following 
preparation may be used after the application of a plain 
shampoo. 

Ammonia (chemically pure), 10% U. S. 

P i tablespoonf ul 

Peroxide of Hydrogen 2 tablespoonfuls 

Warm soft water 1 quart 

Mix and pour over the hair and scalp. 

The hair should be thoroughly rubbed with the fingers 
to insure uniform action. Dry without further rinsing. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

HAIR DYE5. 

Hair dyes are substances used in giving color to the 
hair. A perfect dye must possess a certain chemical 
affinity to the hair substance; it must not only remain on 
the surface of the hair, but should dye it through and 
through, else it would be easily removed by rubbing, wash- 
ing with soap and water, or in other ways; and it should 
be harmless to the hair and scalp. 

There may be some slight variation in the action of 
dyes upon different kinds of hair, due to a difference in 
texture and to some slight variation of the absorbing 
properties of hair for pigments, as well as slight deviations 
in the chemical constituents of the hair of different people. 
These slight differences however, would not affect in 
any manner the results obtained if the dye is good and the 
application is intelligently made. 

Hair dyes may be classified in several ways. Pro- 
gressive dyes, or hair restorers, which exert a progressive, 
or gradual restorative action on the hair, and which re- 
quire a longer or shorter period of time, according to the 
nature of the dye, before the shade desired is produced; 
and Instantaneous Dyes, or dyes that produce the desired 
color almost instantly. 

A second classification is sometimes made according 
to whether or not the dye is made from vegetable extracts 
or mineral salts. Of the dyes used, those obtained from 
the vegetable kingdom, as well as many mineral dyes, are 
usually considered harmless to the hair and scalp; while 

(179) 



180 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

some mineral dyes may not be free from danger, especially 
to those who have a diseased or abraded scalp, and also to 
those who may possess an idiosyncrasy toward certain 
minerals. 

Dyes containing metal salts are practically all instan- 
taneous dyes, and are preferred by some on account of the 
fact that they require much less time to produce the de- 
sired shade. These dyes are frequently made up in two 
solutions, and applied one after the other, the mixing of 
the two taking place on the hair; or they may be mixed 
and then applied. These solutions are known as, A, the 
dye; B, the Mordant, or fixer, which latter is usually 
applied first. 

In ancient times the practice of dyeing the hair was 
fraught with more or less danger, due to ignorance of 
proper dye stuffs and improper methods of applying them. 
Today this condition of danger has been largely dissi- 
pated, for among our modern hair dyes we are able to 
find preparations which satisfy in most cases all demands 
on shades, genuineness and harmlessness. 

HAIR RESTORERS. 

Hair restorers or progressive dyes form that class of 
preparations which, applied, will restore the original dark 
shade to gray or faded hair. They are preferred to in- 
stantaneous dyes by many on account of the fact that the 
hair can be retouched or restored to its original dark color, 
the change in shade being so gradual and extending over 
such a period of time that the dyeing process does not 
attract attention. In addition to the restoration of color, 
the ideal preparation should free the scalp from dandruff 
and prevent falling hair as well as promoting the growth 
of new hair. After application the hair should be left free 
from foreign matter yet soft and flexible, with a glossy 



Hair Dyes. 181 

texture or sheen. Many hair restorers contain mineral 
salts, some of which are said to entail harmful conse- 
quences in some cases ; as a rule the use of vegetable prepa- 
rations is harmless. The rapidity with which the color 
of the hair is restored depends upon the nature of the 
preparation used, the frequency of application, the texture 
of the hair, the quantity of oil it contains, and the amount 
of grayness present. 

In the following list will be found prescriptions for 
hair restorers embracing practically every progressive dye 
that possesses merit. Many formulas contain the same 
restorative agent, and differ only in the kind of perfume 
used; so that an agreeable as well as an efficient product 
may be selected. 

Vegetable Hair Restorers. 

No. 1. 

HAIR TONIC AND RESTORER. 

The restorative action of this preparation is very mild. 
It is also a most excellent hair tonic. 

Bay Rum 5 ozs. 2 drams 

Alcohol 2 ozs. 5 drams 

Castor Oil ij drams 

Ammonium Carbonate 40 grains 

Tincture Cantharides 80 minims 

Mix. Shake well and use daily. 

No. 2. 

HAIR RESTORATIVE. 

The restorative action of this prescription is similar 
to No. 1. Perfumed with Rosemary water it will be found 
very pleasing to use. 



182 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Glycerine of Borax 4 drams 

Strong Solution Ammonia 3 drams 

Spirits Camphor 1 dram 

Compound Tinct. Cinchona 2 drams 

Rosemary water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 

No. 3. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation will be found to exert a gradual, 
mild restorative action similar to that of prescriptions 
Nos. 1 and 2. It will prove an excellent hair tonic with an 
agreeable odor of Rosemary and Lavender. 

Oil Rosemary 10 drops 

Solution Ammonia 2 drams 

Tincture Cantharides 4 drams 

Lavender Water 2 drams 

Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 

No. 4. 

PERSIAN HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation will darken the color of the hair and 
is absolutely harmless when applied. 

Vinegar Cantharides 95 grains 

Milk of Sulphur 45 grains 

Glycerine 2 ounces 

Oil Rose Geranium 2 drops 

Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Shake well and apply to scalp once daily. 



Hair Dyes. 183 

No. 5. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation is a harmless and slow acting color 
restorer. It will be found an elegant and efficient pre- 
scription. 



Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 

Tincture Galls 2 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium io drops 

Carmine 6 grains 

Rectified Spirit of Wine I ounce 

Rose water 5 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily. 

No. 6. 

STIMULATING HAIR RESTORER. 

This prescription will slightly darken the color of the 
hair. It is harmless when applied and exerts a stimulating 
effect upon the scalp. 



Powdered Cantharides 45 grains 

Oil of Almonds 6 drams 

Oil of Rosemary 1 dram 

Strong Solution of Ammonia 6 drams 

Elder Flower Water 1 ounce 

Rose water 1 ounce 

Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 



Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



184 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 7. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

The medicinal action of this preparation is similar to 
that of No. 6. On account of the oils which it contains its 
use is especially indicated when the scalp and hair is dry 
and brittle. 



Castor Oil i ounce 

Olive Oil , i ounce 5 drams 

Perfume, preferred odor, 40 minims 

Spirit Rosemary 2 ounces 5 drams 

Strong solution of Ammonia 5 drams 

Tincture Cantharides 5 drams 



Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 



No. 8. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

This is a very fine preparation. It will slowly darken 
the color of the hair. 

Quinine Sulphate : 12 grains 

Rose Water 5 ounces 

Dilute Sulphuric Acid J 10 drops 

Dissolve and add : 

Tincture Jaborandi 4 drams 

Eau de Cologne 1 ounce 

Bay Rum 1 ounce 

Mix and add to first mixture. Apply daily. 

No. 9. 

STIMULATING HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation exerts a slight coloring action on the 
hair. It is also an active hair grower. 



Hair Dyes. 185 

Pilocarpin Muriate 8 grains 

Quinine Sulphate 8 grains 

Glycerine 6 drams 

Spirit of Nutmeg I ounce 

Tincture Jaborandi i ounce 

Vinegar Cantharides 2 ounces 

Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 

No. 10. 

FRENCH HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation is a most excellent one. It has more 
of a darkening effect upon the hair than the preceding 
preparations and its tonic effect is pronounced. 



Quinine Hydrochlorate 20 grains 

Alcohol 70% 8 ounces 

Tannic Acid 40 grains 

Tincture Cantharides 50 minims 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Cologne Water 3 drams 

Pulverized Sandal Wood 20 grains 

Extract of Vanilla \ dram 

Mix and shake. Stand four hours and filter. 
Sig. Rub into scalp daily. 



No. 11. 

QUININE HAIR RESTORER. 

This quinine hair restorer has a marked restorative 
action. It will not only darken the hair, but it possesses 
all the virtues of a good hair tonic. 






186 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Tincture Cinchona i \ drams 

Tincture Nut Galls 2 drams 

Carmine 10 grains 

Oil of Nutmeg 10 grains 

Alcohol 6 drams 

Rose Water 3 ounces 

Orange Flower Water 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily. 

No. 12. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

The use of this preparation will darken the color of 
the hair; it is absolutely harmless and is a fine hair and 
scalp tonic. 

Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 

Tincture Galls 2 drams 

Oil Rose Geranium 20 drops 

Carmine 7 grains 

Alcohol 7 drams 

Rose Water 5 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily. 

No. 13. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

The use of tea has been advocated for many years as 
a harmless preparation that will darken the color of the 
hair. The writer recalls several instances of ladies past 
the age of sixty-five years whose hair possessed a beauti- 
ful gloss, with an entire absence of gray or white hair. 
For this perfect preservation of color and texture, the use 
of tea was given credit. 



Hair Dyes. 187 

Black Tea 3 ounces 

Boiling Water 8 ounces 

Boil tea for thirty minutes, maintaining the 

quantity of water; then cool, strain 

through a thin cloth, and add 

Bay Rum, imported 4 ounces 

Glycerine i^ ounces 

Mix. Apply to the hair and scalp daily. 

This preparation is entirely harmless, and similar 
preparations have been extensively used. It stains the 
hair a dark color. A brown dye may be produced by 
substituting three ounces of Extract of Log Wood for the 
Tea. 

No. 14. 

HAIR RESTORER. 

The action of this tea restorer is similar to that of 
No. 13. In addition it contains Tincture of Cantharides, 
which gives it a more pronounced tonic effect. 

Black Tea 4 drams 

Boiling water 8 ounces 

Let simmer for thirty minutes, then strain, 
cool, and add 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Bay Rum 6 ounces 

Tincture Cantharides I dram 

Let stand for two or three days and perfume to suit. 
Apply daily. 



188 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Vegetable and Mineral Hair Restorers, 

No. 1. 

HARMLESS HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation will not stain the scalp; it will 
slightly darken the color of the hair and will be found 
efficient and harmless. 



Tincture Acetate of Iron 4 drams 

Sulphuret Potassium 2\ grains 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium 10 drops 

Rain Water 8 ounces 

Mix. Apply daily. 

Leave bottle uncorked until solution becomes odor- 
less, then add the Oil of Rose Geranium. 

No. 2. 

FLORAL HAIR RESTORER. 

This preparation has a fine coloring effect, and will 
be found most excellent when applied to a hot, itching, 
burning scalp. We consider it one of the best mild veg- 
etable and mineral hair restorers. It should be put up in 
amber colored bottles and protected from the light. 



French Rose Water 7J ounces 

Triple Extract of Rose. . , 6 drams 

Citrate of Bismuth 2 drams 

Hyposulphite of Soda \ dram 

Glycerine \ dram 

Ammonia, quantity sufficient. 

Apply to scalp at bed hour. 



Hair Dyes. 189 

No. 3. 

RESTORATIVE AND TONIC. 

This preparation is a slow acting, progressive hair 
dye and scalp tonic. 

Hoffman's Balsamic Mixture ii ounces 

Tincture Cantharides 2-§ drams 

Glycerine I ounce 

Rose Water 6J ounces 

Carbonated Ammonia 2\ drams 

Mix. Shake and filter. Apply daily. 

No. 4. 

RESTORATIVE OINTMENT. 

Hair restorers are for convenience of application usu- 
ally prepared in the form of a liquid; for those who prefer 
the use of an Ointment we submit the following which will 
be found very efficient : 

Vinegar Cantharides . 3 drams 

Glycerine 1 dram 

Mix. 

Etheiopes Mineral 20 grains 

Oil of Bergamot 20 drops 

Olive Oil 4 drams 

Lard 2 drams 

Yellow Beeswax 2 drams 



Make an ointment. 

Sig. — Apply the ointment every night for a week; 
then apply a small quantity of the ointment every third 



CHAPTER XXII. 

LEAD AND SULPHUR HAIR RESTORERS 

Preparations containing lead and sulphur comprise 
by far the largest class of hair restorers advertised. They 
are sold under the name of "hair promoters/' "hair vig- 
ors," or "hair restorers." Their action is more rapid than 
most purely vegetable products, and their effect is more 
lasting as they do not decompose so readily under the influ- 
ence of light and oxygen. When applied to the hair the 
sulphur and lead combine upon exposure to the air to form 
a black lead sulphide stain. These preparations should be 
applied to the hair only, as otherwise the clothing and skin 
may be stained. Solutions containing lead salt should be 
applied with care as they are said to be injurious to some 
scalps, especially if abrasions or diseases of the scalp are 
present. Theoretically, these preparations are considered 
as toxic in nature, yet in actual practice poisonous effects 
from their use are practically unknown. 

In almost all preparations where Sulphur is used an 
insoluble precipitate forms in the bottom of the bottle; 
therefore, unless directions are given to the contrary, the 
preparation should be well shaken before applying to 
the hair. 

When using Sulphur hair restorers, wash the hair at 
long intervals only. If the hair is very gray, the hair re- 
storer may be applied two or three times daily for the first 
week; then twice a day until the desired color is obtained; 
then as needed. 

(190) 



Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 191 

No. 1. 

The dyeing properties of this preparation are due to 
the presence of Lead alone, and it is one of the best of its 
kind. 



Sugar of Lead J dram 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Lavender Water I ounce 

Distilled Water 8 ounces 

Mix. Moisten brush with solution and use night and 
morning. 

No. 2. 

ODORLESS SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

The addition of Sulphur to a hair restorer containing 
Lead yields a more satisfactory product than a simple 
Lead preparation. Lead and Sulphur combine to form a 
dark Lead Oxide which increases the dyeing property, 
and the sulphur is of benefit to the hair. The odor of the 
Lead and Sulphur is objectionable to some. The following 
preparation is practically odorless. 

Sulphur 65 grains 

Lead Acetate 95 grains 

Glycerine i-J ounces 

Water 5^ ounces 

Dissolve Lead Acetate in water, then add Glycerine 
and Sulphur. 

Directions : Moisten brush with solution and apply 
once or twice daily until the color is restored ; after which 
an occasional application will prevent the hair from turn- 
ing gray. 



192 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 3. 

tonic sulphur hair restorer. 

The following preparation is not only a good hair 
restorer, but its stimulating action on the scalp is in- 
creased by the Cantharides which it contains. 

$ 

Sulphur Precipitate 2 drams 

Lead Acetate 2 drams 

Tincture Cantharides 1 dram 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Water 8 ounces 

Dissolve Lead salt in water and add remaining in- 
gredients. 

Directions : Moisten brush with solution and apply 
once or twice daily until the color is restored; after which 
an occasional application will prevent the hair from turn- 
ing gray. 

No. 4. 

ROSE WATER - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

The body of this preparation is composed of Rose 
water; the odor will be found pleasing. 



Sulphur Precipitate 2 drams 

Lead Acetate 2 drams 

Glycerine 10 drams 

Rose Water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. 

Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
daily until the color is restored ; then an occasional applica- 
tion will prevent the hair from turning gray. 



Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 193 

No. 5. 

LAVENDER - SULPHUR HAIR VIGOR. 

The following preparation is an efficient hair re- 
storer. It is scented with the Oil of Lavender, and will 
be found agreeable to use. 

Lead Acetate ij drams 

Sulphur Precipitate 3 drams 

Glycerine 6 drams 

Oil of Lavender 15 drops 

Rectified Spirits 2 drams 

Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Dissolve Lead Acetate, Sulphur, and Oil of Lavender 
in Rectified Spirits and Glycerine, and then add water 
gradually. 

Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
daily until the color is restored ; then an occasional applica- 
tion will prevent the hair from turning gray. 

No. 6. 

MYRRH - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

In the following preparation we have an excellent 
hair restorer. In addition to the restorative agents, it 
contains Jamaica Rum scented with Spirits of Myrrh, 
making an elegant and pleasing preparation. 

Lac Sulphur „ 15 grains 

Lead Acetate 15 grains 

Soda 30 grains 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Spirits of Myrrh 2 ounces 

Jamaica Rum I ounce 

Water 4 ounces 

Mix. 
13 



194 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
daily until the color is restored ; after which an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 

No. 7. 

ROSEMARY SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

For those who prefer a Sulphur restorer perfumed 
with the Spirit of Rosemary we submit the following 
formula : 

Sulphur Precipitate 75 grains 

Lead Acetate 30 grains 

Glycerine 5 drams 

Spirit of Rosemary 4 drams 

Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. 

Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 

No. 8. 

ORANGE FLOWER - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

If preferred, Orange Flower water may be used as a 
perfume, as in the following : 

Sulphur Precipitate 130 grains 

Lead Acetate . . 70 grains 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Orange Flower Water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. 

Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 



Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 195 

No. 9. 

ALMOND - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

The restorative action of this preparation is similar 
to the preceding ones. It is scented with the Oil of 
Almonds which gives it a pleasant and lasting perfume. 

Sulphur Precipitate 75 grains 

Lead Acetate 60 grains 

Alcohol 1 dram 

Glycerine ij drams 

Essential Oil of Almonds 30 drops 

Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 

Mix. 

Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
daily until the color is restored ; after which an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 

No. 10. 

SULPHUR AND LEAD HAIR RESTORER. 

The following preparation is not only very efficient 
as a hair restorer, but is scented with Rose Geranium, one 
of the most popular and satisfactory perfumes for re- 
storers of which we have knowledge : 

Sulphur Precipitate 45 grains 

Lead Acetate 60 grains 

Tincture Cantharides i-J drams 

Glycerine 3 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium 10 drops 

Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 

Mix. 

Moisten the brush with solution and apply once or 
twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 



196 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 11. 

SULPHUR AND LEAD HAIR RESTORER. 

We consider the following preparation a very fine 
hair restorer ; the color obtained by its use is more lasting 
than that produced by many Sulphur hair restorers : 

Lac Sulphur 55 grains 

Lead Acetate 48 grains 

Jamaica Rum 12 drams 

Bay Rum 24 drams 

Glycerine 1 dram 

Salt 48 grains 

Rose Water 3 ounces 2 drams 

Mix. 

Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
twice daily until the color is restored; after which an 
occasional application will prevent the hair from turning 
gray. 

No. 12. 

HAIR STIMULANT RESTORER. 

The restorative action of this preparation will be 
found most excellent. It contains Acetic Acid, which, 
more than any other preparation, is said to stimulate and 
increase pigmentary deposit in the hair. Cantharides acts 
as an excellent hair tonic and the perfume of Rose is 
especially desirable. 

Precipitated Sulphur 13 grains 

Lead Acetate 3 grains 

Acetic Acid .' 4 drams 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Tincture Cantharides 4 drams 

Oil of Rose Geranium 5 drops 

Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 



Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 197 

Moisten the brush and apply the solution once or 
twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 



No. 13. 

BERGAMOT HAIR RESTORER. 

The proportion of Sulphur and Lead in this prepara- 
tion is small ; hence the restoration of color is not so rapid 
as that obtained by the use of some of the preparations 
previously given. It also serves as a scalp tonic, and is 
scented with the Oil of Bergamot, a perfume much in 
demand. 

Lac Sulphur i dram 

Sugar of Lead i dram 

Glycerine i-| drams 

Tincture Cantharides I dram 

Oil of Bergamot -J dram 

Rain Water 8 ounces 

Mix. Rub in well with the fingers once daily until 
the desired shade is obtained — then as needed. 



14. 

SULPHUR SALICYLIC HAIR RESTORER. 

We believe this to be one of the best Sulphur hair 
restorers. It restores gray, faded hair to its original dark 
color; the color is very lasting, and the preparation 
cleanses and directly stimulates the scalp. 



198 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Sulphur washed I dram 

Salicylic Acid I dram 

Lead Acetate -J dram 

Tincture Cantharides I dram 

Glycerine i| drams 

Bay Rum 4 drams 

Salt 1 dram 

Water, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. 

Directions for Use: Moisten the brush with the 
solution and apply once or twice daily; then an occasional 
application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 

No. 15. 

jockey club sulphur hair restorer. 

We consider the following preparation very fine, con- 
taining all the essentials necessary to create a satisfactory 
hair restorer, scalp tonic, and a pleasing, agreeable 
preparation : 

Lac Sulphur i-J drams 

Sugar of Lead 1 dram 

Alcohol 4 drams 

Jamaica Rum 1 ounce 

Aqua Ammonia -J dram 

Table Salt -J dram 

Glycerine ij drams 

Extract Jockey Club \ dram 

Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 

Rain Water 6 ounces 

Mix the Lead, Sulphur, Alcohol and the Ammonia, 
and let stand for 14 hours; then add remaining ingredients 
to the water. Mix solution by shaking and let stand for 
five days. 



Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 199 

Directions : Wet the hair thoroughly with the clear 
liquid several times a week, taking care not to disturb 
the sediment in the bottom of the bottle. After the first 
week an occasional application will prevent the hair from 
turning gray. 

No. 16. 

sulphur hair restorer and tonic. 

This preparation has been widely used with satisfac- 
tion. The change in color requires about two weeks to get 
best results. 

Precipitated Sulphur i dram 

Acetate of Lead -J dram 

Bay Rum I dram 

Glycerine I dram 

Aqua Ammonia \ dram 

Common Salt \ dram 

Rose Water 8 ounces 

Rub up Sulphur with the Glycerine ; dissolve the Lead 
in the Bay Rum ; and dissolve the salt with the Rose water. 
Mix and add the Ammonia. Keep in a dark colored 
bottle. 

To Apply : Pour a little into the hand and rub into 
the scalp three times daily for the first week; then twice 
a day until the desired color is obtained ; then as needed. 

No. 17. 

AN ELEGANT SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 

In this preparation there is no objectionable precipi- 
tate. It is an elegant and very efficient product. 



200 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 



Hyposulphite of Soda 4 drams 

Distilled Water 4 ounces 

Dissolve. 

Acetate of Lead 1 dram 

Distilled Water 4 ounces 

Dissolve. Mix with first solution, filter and add 

Glycerine 4 drams 

Apply daily to roots of hair with a brush or with the 
ringers till the desired color is restored. Then as needed. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

INSTANTANEOUS HAIR DYES. 

Vegetable Hair Dyes. 

Of the vegetable hair dyes, Henna, alone or in com- 
bination, is the most widely known. Henna is a small 
shrub which somewhat resembles our lilac, and is grown 
principally in the hot countries of Asia. The flowers are 
yellow in color and have a musk-like odor ; the fruit is the 
size of a large pea. The leaves from which the dye is 
made contain a pigment similar to the tannins, and are 
collected during July, when they are dried and powdered. 

Henna is usually applied in the form of a poultice 
made from the powdered leaves, or rarely, as a brew, when 
it is desired to impart an amber or reddish tint to the hair. 
The henna powder or paste found on the market usually 
consists of a combination of Henna with Copper, Pyro- 
gallol and Carbon; the paste is made by the addition of 
an oil to the powder. 

The application of henna alone imparts a red tint to 
the hair, but does not lighten the natural shade. Henna 
should not be applied to hair that has been previously dyed 
with metallic dye without first removing all traces of the 
dyeing agent previously used; nor to faded, gray, or dis- 
colored hair without first obtaining a uniform shade by 
bleaching. 

To obtain a shade other than that which the use of 
Henna alone would give, it is combined with Reng. A 
powder prepared in a manner similar to that of Henna is 
made from the leaves of the Indigofera Argentea or In- 

(201) 



202 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

digo plant, and combined with the powdered leaves of the 
Henna. The application of Reng alone will give a bluish 
black color, but by combining the two in varying propor- 
tions, and by regulating the length of time of application, 
various shades of color ranging from blonde to black may 
be produced. 

Henna and Reng 

The Oriental method of applying the Henna and Reng 
is as follows: 

The henna and reng must be of good quality; the 
reng should be powdered fine, without lumps, and should 
have the color of fresh green peas ; the temperature of the 
room should be 75° Fahrenheit ; a pair of gloves as a pro- 
tection for the hands may be worn. For rinsing out the 
powder a small tub filled with warm soft water should be 
provided. The hair and scalp must be entirely freed from 
oil or other foreign substances by means of the shampoo, 
after which the hair should be dried thoroughly, parted 
along the crown of the head into two equal halves, and 
arranged in four or five loose braids. 

To color a thick growth of hair, from ninety to one 
hundred and twenty grams of the powder is required. 
For black or dark colored hair the mixture should consist 
of three parts of reng with one of henna; for blonde or 
light hair, two parts of reng with one of henna. The 
henna and reng should be reduced to a smooth powder and 
enough water added, with constant stirring or shaking to 
and fro until a thin liquid results. The mixture should 
have the color and smell of spinach and should be so thin 
that it will readily flow out of a too full ladle. 

Thoroughly moisten the crown of the head with the 
mixture, at the same time massaging it with the hand so 
that the solution is thoroughly rubbed in; then apply to 
the hanging braids by drawing them repeatedly one after 



Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 203 

the other through the hands rilled with the dye until they 
are completely saturated. If one prefers a black color the 
braids may be coiled tightly and pinned about the head on 
the already treated hair; if brown or still lighter color is 
desired the braids should not be laid on the head, but 
loosely fastened together with pins on the back of the 
head. After the braids have been packed carefully to- 
gether the whole should be smoothed over with the stain, 
care being taken that every hair on the head is well moist- 
ened with the preparation. A thick linen cloth should be 
fastened about the neck as a protection against any trick- 
ling drops, and one should remain in a warm room the 
time necessary to produce the required color. The longer 
the stain lies on the hair the darker the color becomes. To 
obtain a beautiful gleaming black shade from three to four 
hours is required; for a brown color under the above con- 
ditions from two to two and one-half hours is needed. 
When the staining action is completed, pour at once on the 
head enough water to thoroughly wash out the paste, at 
the same time assisting the cleansing action of the water 
by the constant use of a wide comb. The rinsing process 
should be continued until the water flows clear from the 
hair, which will require at least a half hour's time and the 
use of much water. The color really obtained is best esti- 
mated after the lapse of five or six hours, or on the follow- 
ing morning. If the hair has been well cleansed and the 
color skillfully applied, a wonderfully beautiful lustre is 
obtained. If the hair does not show this lustre after dry- 
ing, but appears dull and lifeless, the coloring is a failure, 
and the hair should be recolored, following the method 
described with the exception of the shampoo. This may 
be omitted unless some grease has been introduced which 
would make a recleansing necessary. Subsequent applica- 
tions of henna and reng give much better effects than the 



204 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

first application. If the hair color is pure throughout, one 
should use in the next treatment a weaker coloring mix- 
ture, with a somewhat less proportion of reng. After the 
application of henna and reng one should not use a greasy 
brush or comb until the color is satisfactory, or the powder 
is all out of the hair. Henna and reng are said to be en- 
tirely harmless and can be taken into the eyes or mouth 
without danger. It should be carefully noted that reng 
spoils easily when exposed to moisture, so it is best kept in 
well corked, paper wrapped flasks. 

Walnut Extract. 

Walnut extract obtained from the green nuts of the 
walnut tree has long been a favorite substance for making 
hair dyes. The walnut juice may be obtained from the 
nuts in several ways. 

No. 1. 

The supply of fresh green walnut shells should be 
thoroughly mashed and the resulting mass covered with 
distilled water to which one per cent of salt has been 
added. Stir occasionally for three days. Again cover the 
resulting mass with water, and heat almost to the boiling 
point for six hours, keeping up the supply of water which 
is lost by evaporation; then cool and strain through a 
cloth by twisting or pressure. Return the liquid thus 
obtained to the kettle and apply heat until three quarters 
are lost by evaporation; cool and add one-sixth by weight 
of Alcohol. Mix well and bottle. 

Apply with brush and comb once weekly or as needed. 



Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 205 

No. 2. 

BROWN WALNUT HAIR STAIN. 

Crush green walnuts and express the juice. For each ounce of 
juice add 

Boric Acid 5 grains 

Alcohol i dram 

Cool, filter off and bottle for future use. 

This preparation requires two or three days to "become fast." 

Apply with a comb and tooth brush once weekly, or 
as required. 

No. 3. 

BROWN WALNUT HAIR OIL DYE. 

Green Walnut Hulls i J ounces 

Alum 3 drams 

Olive Oil 5 ounces 

Heat in water bath until water has been entirely 
expelled, then express, filter and perfume to suit. 
Apply every two or three days, or as needed. 

No. 4. 
Brown Walnut Hair Dye. 

Fresh Green Walnut Shells i ounce 

Powdered Alum i dram 

Benzoated Oil 5 ounces 

Oil of Rose Geranium 6 drops 

Reduce the walnut shells and alum to a smooth paste, 
digest with Benzoated oil in a water bath until all the 
vapor has been driven off; then add the Oil of Rose Ger- 
anium. This will produce a brown shade. It should be 
used daily. 



206 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 5. 
Brown Walnut Hair Dye. 

Green Walnut Shells 2 ounces 

Alum 2 drams 

Bruise together in a mortar and allow 

to stand for two days; then 

transfer to an evaporating dish 

and add 

Olive Oil 3 ounces 6 drams 

Stir constantly until the moisture is 

evaporated and the shells are dry. 

Cool, strain, press and add 

Oil of Bergamot 4 drops 

Oil of Verbena 1 drop 

Mix. Apply as needed. 

No. 6. 

walnut hair oil and dye. 

Oils impregnated with the coloring principles of wal- 
nut shells have been recommended for dyeing the hair, 
thus serving as a combined oil and dye. The oil is to be 
applied daily, until the hair acquires a dark brown tint, 
then as needed. 

DARK BROWN WALNUT OIL DYE. 

Paraffin Oil 4 ounces 

Alum Powder 1 dram 

Walnut Shells, dried 1 ounce 

Alcohol sufficient 

Perfume to suit 

Moisten the shells with alcohol, add the alum and 
paraffin oil, heat on a sand bath for an hour; then filter, 
and finally add any essential oils or synthetic perfumes. 

Apply daily. 



Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 207 

No. 7. 

BROWN WALNUT OIL DYE. 

Walnut Shells, green I ounce 

Alum Powder I dram 

Olive Oil 5 ounces 

Oil of Bergamot 9 drops 

Beat the walnut shells in a mortar with the alum ; then 
heat with the olive oil until all moisture has dissipated, 
filter, allow to cool, and add the aromatic oil. 

Apply daily. 

No. 8. 

BROWN VEGETABLE DYE. 

Dried Walnut Leaves I ounce 

Dried Rosemary Leaves I ounce 

Dried Bay Laurel Leaves 4 drams 

Dried Lavender Flowers 4 drams 

Oil of Rosemary \ dram 

Mix and put up in one ounce packets, wrapped in 
waxed paper. 

Sig: Pour one pint of boiling water on each ounce 
package, cool and strain through muslin and add two 
ounces of alcohol or bay rum, and glycerine one ounce. 
If hair is oily omit glycerine. 

Shake bottle before using, and apply with sponge to 
roots of hair every other day. 

No. 9. 

Many of the so-called "walnut dyes" are not made 
from walnut shells at all, but are of chemical origin. As 
an example we submit 



208 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails, 



Silver Nitrate i dram 

Pyrogallol 4 drams 

Distilled water 3 ounces 

Glycerine 5 ounces 

Mix. Apply as directed for Silver Nitrate dyes. 

Pyrogallol. 
These Pyrogallol hair dyes are harmless and efficient. 

No. 1. 

£ PYROGALLOL CHESTNUT HAIR DYE. 

Pyrogallol 1 dram 

Nitric Acid 10 drops 

Water, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply as needed with a small stiff brush and comb. 

Thoroughly wash and rinse the hair, and when dry 
apply the dye daily with a sponge or soft cloth. 

No. 2. 

£ PYROGALLOL BROWN HAIR DYE. 

Pyrogallol 4 drams 

Sodium Sulphite 32 grains 

Alcohol 1 ounce 

Water 3 ounces 

Dissolve the Sodium Sulphite in the water and the 
Pyrogallol in the Alcohol. Mix and apply with a small 
brush and comb. 



Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 209 

No. 3. 

^ PYROGALLOL — BROWN DYE. 

Pyrogallol -J ounce 

Sodium Sulphite i^ drams 

Alcohol 90% -J ounce 

Water 3 ounces 

Mix and apply as needed. 

No. 4. 

£ DARK BROWN NON-METALLIC. 

Pyrogallol 8 grains 

Citric Acid 1 dram 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Mix and apply. 

No. 5. 

£ NON-METALLIC BLACK DYE. 

Pyrogallol 1 dram 

Citric Acid 5 grains 

Boro-glycerine 3 drams 

Water 3^ ounces 

Mix and dissolve, then apply. 

The hair should be washed in Soda and soft water 
solution in the morning before applying these dyes. 

The color may be darkened or lightened by adding 
more or less of the Pyrogallol. 

The following preparations are suitable for coloring 
the hair for a limited time, and are preferred by those 
who wish to apply them every few days. They are harm- 
less in nature and quick in action; but they do not resist 
the action of soap and water. 

14 



210 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 1. 

BLACK OIL HAIR AND EYEBROW DYE. 

Olive Oil 4 ounces 

White Wax 2 ounces 

Powdered Burnt Cork i ounce 

Apply with suitable brush and comb as needed. 

Heat the oil and wax together over a water bath; 
when melted add the cork. This dye gives a lustrous 
color to the hair and is absolutely harmless. 



No. 2. 

HARMLESS BLACK DYE FOR EYEBROWS AND HAIR. 

Gum Arabic i dram 

India Ink i£ drams 

Rose Water 4 ounces 

Reduce the gum and ink to fine powder and add 
sufficient Rose water to dissolve all the granules. Then 
add sufficient rose water to make a four ounce solution. 

This preparation gives a black color and is absolutely 
harmless. It should be applied as needed with a small 
stiff brush and comb. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

INSTANTANEOUS MINERAL HAIR DYES. 

Manganese. 

No. 1. 

LIGHT BROWN HAIR DYE. 

Potassium Permanganate 3 ounces 

Distilled water 1 quart 

Free the hair from fat or oil in the manner previously 
described, and apply the dye with a small brush. 

No. 2. 

MANGANESE HAIR DYE. BLONDE. 2 BOTTLE. 

Solution A. 

Potassium Permanganate 80 grains 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Solution B. 

Sodium Hyposulphite 80 grains 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Free the hair from grease by washing with a weak 
soda solution ; then rinse thoroughly with warm water and 
dry with a soft towel. Apply Solution A with a soft, 
clean tooth brush, afterwards combing with a clean comb 
to evenly distribute the solution. After a short time 
sponge the hair with clean water, then brush with Solu- 
tion B until the Manganese color is discharged. 

Solution A is also used alone, the depth of color 
obtained varying with the frequency of application. 

(211) 



212 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Iron. 

No. 1. 

IRON HAIR DYE. 

Iron being entirely free from poisonous properties, 
has been used to some extent as a base for hair dyes in 
preference to some of the other metallic salts. We do not 
believe the color obtained is as lasting or satisfactory as 
that produced by Bismuth or Silver; but we submit the 
following formulas for the use of those who might prefer 
them. 

Solution A. BLACK -2 BOTTLE. 

Iron Sulphate 2\ grains 

Glycerine i-| drams 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Solution B. 

Tannic Acid io grains 

Gallic Acid io grains 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Wash hair thoroughly, and brush on three consecu- 
tive days with Solution A; then apply Solution B with a 
fine tooth comb. Subsequently apply both liquids daily 
with an hour interval between the application of Solution 
A and Solution B, until the desired black color is pro- 
duced. 

No. 2. 

£ BLACK 1 BOTTLE. 

Solution of Iron Acetate 15 minims 

Pyrogallol 40 grains 

Glycerine 2 drams 

Alcohol 4 ounces 

Mix. 

Apply once or twice daily to gradually darken the 
hair. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 213 

Bismuth. 

Bismuth hair dyes are preferred by many as they are 
entirely non-poisonous and may be used freely. The 
objection to them is that they do not operate so quickly, 
and they rapidly decompose on exposure to light and air. 
They should always be kept in dark, well-stoppered bottles. 
They are also quite expensive. They are especially use- 
ful in producing a light brown or chestnut shade of hair. 

No. 1. 
^ blonde or brown dye. 

Bismuth Subnitrate 63 grains 

Solution of Potassa 10% 

Citric Acid, each sufficient 

Glycerine ij ounces 

Distilled or Orange Flower Water, enough 

to make 4 ounces 

Mix the bismuth salt and glycerine intimately by 
trituration; then heat on a water bath and gradually add 
to it Solution of Potassa under constant stirring, until the 
Bismuth salt is dissolved. Then add concentrated solution 
of Citric Acid until only a slight alkalinity remains, and 
add water to make up the four fluid ounces. 

This is to be applied by means of a new tooth brush 
and comb. 

No. 2. 

£ BISMUTH DYE — BROWN. 

Bismuth Citrate 1 ounce 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Alcohol 6 drams 

Ammonia water, enough to dissolve the residue. 
Mix and apply by means of a small brush and comb. 



214 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 3. 

DARK BROWN BISMUTH DYE. 

Two Bottle. 
Solution A. 

Bismuth Citrate 3 drams 

Alcohol 2 drams 

Rose Water i£ ounces 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Add the bismuth to the alcohol, rose water and dis- 
tilled water, after which sufficient water of ammonia to 
dissolve the residue should be added. 

Solution B. 

Sodium Hyposulphite 1 J ounces 

Distilled water 5 ounces 

At night free the hair and scalp from oil by washing, 
and in the morning apply solution A and let it dry. That 
night apply solution B. Repeat the operation if a deeper 
tint is desired. 

No. 4. 

BISMUTH HAIR DYE BLACK. 

Bismuth Citrate 1 ounce 

Rose water 2 ounces 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Alcohol \ ounce 

Ammonia water, enough to make a clear solution. 

Apply with a small brush once daily, till the desired 
shade is obtained. Repeat as needed. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 215 

No. 5. 

BISMUTH HAIR DYE BLACK. 

Two Bottle. 

Solution A. 

Bismuth Citrate I ounce 

Alcohol 5 drams 

Rose Water 2 ounces 

Distilled water 2 ounces 

Ammonia Water, to dissolve the precipitate. 

Apply in the morning. 

Solution B. 

Sodium Hyposulphite 12 drams 

Distilled water 4 ounces 

Apply thoroughly in the evening. 
Use a small stiff brush and repeat the operation until 
the desired shade is obtained ; then as needed. 

Quicksilver Dyes. 

Dyes containing Mercury are so poisonous that they 
should not be used on the living hair. They are sometimes 
used in coloring false hair ; but even in this field they have 
objectionable features and offer no special advantage over 
other, and less harmful dyes. 

Silver Nitrate used either alone or in combina- 
tion, has a wider range of usefulness than any other dye. 
Colors ranging in shade from flaxen to raven's wing 
black may be obtained. The Dye is easily prepared and 
previous experience with it is not so necessary to obtain 
satisfactory results as in the case of many other dyes. 



216 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Stains of the skin which may result during its appli- 
cation can be removed before the dye is "set" by the use 
of a little oil or cold cream; or if the dye has set, lemon 
juice and pumice stone will cleanse the skin. 

Much has been written concerning the harmful 
effects of Nitrate of Silver when applied to the hair and 
scalp; yet when we consider the extent to which Silver 
Nitrate is used, not only upon the mucous membranes of 
the body, but also when instilled directly into the eye itself, 
harm resulting from its use upon the scalp has been very 
much exaggerated. To our personal knowledge many 
thousand prescriptions for Silver dyes have been made 
and applied without one harmful consequence resulting. 
As a matter of fact, Silver dyes are but very slightly ab- 
sorbed by the skin, and may be regarded as not harmful 
when applied to a healthy scalp if a standard preparation 
is used, and reasonable precautions are taken in* applying 
them. 

The dye may be applied by the use of a small, clean 
tooth brush or nail brush and a clean rubber comb, in the 
following manner : Part the hair evenly in the center and 
lifting a small strand of hair from the scalp with a comb, 
apply the dye sparingly, beginning at the roots and work- 
ing toward the ends of the hair. 

Exposure to bright light will hasten the setting of 
the dye. Sulphuret of Potash — from twenty grains to two 
drams to the ounce of distilled water — will set it in- 
stantly ; or washing the hair on the following day in pure, 
warm soft water, to which a little salt has been added will 
serve the same purpose. 

All oil and fat should be removed from the hair be- 
fore the application, and the excess dye afterwards, by 
washing in the manner already described. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 217 

No. 1. 
silver hair dye FLAXEN. 

Two Bottle. 
Solution A. 

Nitrate of Silver 160 grains 

Subnitrate of Bismuth 320 grains 

Acetate of Iron 160 grains 

Distilled Water 3 ounces 3 drams 

Solution B. 

Sulphite of Potassium 3 ounces 

Distilled Water 3 ounces 

Mix the acetate of iron with the water, then add the 
silver and bismuth. Apply solution B to the hair. In two 
hours apply lightly solution A. 

No. 2. 

BLONDE HAIR DYE. 

Two Bottle. 
Solution A. 

Silver Nitrate i\ drams 

Bismuth Subnitrate 3 drams 

Water 2 ounces 

Solution B. 

Potassium di-Sulphide 1 ounce 

Water 1 ounce 

Remove all oil from the hair as previously directed, 
dry, and apply Solution B. Dry, and in two hours apply 
Solution A. 



218 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 3. 
blonde hair dye. 

One Bottle. 

Silver Nitrate 20 grains 

Copper Sulphate 30 grains 

Citric Acid 40 grains 

Ammonia Water enough 

Distilled Water 4 ounces 

Dissolve the silver nitrate, copper sulphate and citric 
acid in distilled water; then carefully add the ammonia 
water until the precipitate which has formed has been 
dissolved. 

Apply as directed. 

No. 4. 

CHESTNUT HAIR DYE. 

One Bottle. 

Crystals Silver Nitrate 3J drams 

Nitrate of Copper 20 grains 

Distilled Water 3I ounces 

Ammonia Water sufficient 

Dissolve the nitrate of silver and the nitrate of copper 
in distilled water, and add cautiously the water of 
ammonia until the precipitate is dissolved. This prepara- 
tion will dye the hair black. Various shades from black to 
light brown may be secured by diluting the solution. 

Apply as directed. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 219 

No. 5. 

SILVER DYE DARK BROWN. 

One Bottle. 

Silver Nitrate Crystals 2 drams 

Gum Arabic 2 drams 

Distilled Water 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply as directed. 

No. 6. 

In preparing silver dyes an excess of Ammonia 
should be avoided as this tends to produce a brownish dye. 

BROWN OR BLACK. 

Two Bottle. 
Solution A. 

Silver Nitrate 4 drams 

Ammonia Water sufficient 

Distilled Water, to make 4 ounces 

Dissolve the Silver Nitrate in a portion of water; 
gradually add the Ammonia water, stirring constantly 
until the brown turbidity produced has vanished and the 
liquid appears colorless. 

Solution B. 

Pyrogallol I dram 

Alcohol 4 drams 

Distilled Water, to make 4 ounces 

Mix and dissolve. 

Apply the Pyrogallol Solution to the hair with a tooth 
brush, taking care not to wet the scalp. When partially 
dry apply the silver solution in the same manner, using 
another brush. 



220 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 7. 
BROWN or black. 

Two Bottle. 
Solution A. 

Silver Nitrate 4 drams 

Copper Nitrate • • • • 2 4 grains 

Ammonia Water sufficient 

Distilled Water 4 ounces 

Dissolve the two salts in the water, add ammonia 
water to redissolve the precipitate first formed. 

Solution B. 

Pyrogallol 2 drams 

Acetic Acid 6 drams 

Alcohol 4^ ounces 

Apply the Pyrogallol Solution to the hair with a tooth 
brush, taking care not to wet the scalp. When partially 
dry apply the silver solution in the same manner using 
another brush. 

This makes a black dye. For a brown dye decrease 
the amount of Pyrogallol ; as little as one-half grain to the 
fluid dram is sometimes used. Sometimes the Acetic Acid 
is omitted, and in most of the commercial hair dyes diluted 
alcohol is used as a solvent of the acid. Copper Sulphate 
might possibly be substituted for the nitrate. The use of 
copper salt is to avoid the dull reddish tint imparted to 
the hair by the use of silver nitrate alone. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 221 

No. 8. 

BROWN OR BLACK. 

3 A Good One Bottle Dye. 

Silver Nitrate Crystals 75 grains 

Stronger water of Ammonia, enough to dis- 
solve the precipitate formed, and add 

Orange Flower Water -J ounce 

Glycerine 1^ drams 

Distilled water, enough to make 4 ounces 

Mix. 

Cleanse the hair, dry and apply night and morning 
till the proper color is obtained; then as needed. 

Diluted with rain water this preparation will produce 
a brown stain. 

No. 9. 

BROWN OR BLACK SILVER DYE. 

One Bottle. 

Wash the hair with soap and water, and after drying 
apply from the roots to the ends of the hair with a soft 
tooth brush a 2% solution of Pyrogallol in distilled water, 
then dry the hair and apply : 

Silver Nitrate 18 grains 

Distilled water 3 ounces 

Water of Ammonia, enough to make a clear solution. 

This must be applied every three or four weeks. 



222 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 10. 

BLACK SILVER DYE. 

Solution A. Two Bottle - 

Silver Nitrate 160 grains 

Ammonia Water 6 drams 

Sodium Carbonate i dram 

Water 2 ounces 6 drams 

Solution B. 

Pyrogallol 40 grains 

Water 3 ounces 

Alcohol 1 ounce 

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the water, and add care- 
fully the ammonia water until the precipitate formed is 
dissolved; then add enough water to make twelve ounces 
and allow to stand for a few days. 

To Apply : After the oil has been removed from the 
hair or whiskers by the method described, apply solution 
B and permit to dry. Apply solution A, dry the hair 
thoroughly, and wash with a good soap and soft water to 
remove the superfluous dye, after which the hair should 
be again dried. 

No. 11. 

BROWN OR BLACK SILVER DYE. 

^ One Bottle. 

Nitrate of Silver 2 drams 

Nitrate of Copper 82 grains 

Distilled water 3^ ounces 

Dissolve and add Water of Ammonia, enough to dis- 
solve the precipitate formed. 

Apply as directed. This solution will produce a very 
black color. A lighter shade may be produced by diluting 
the solution. 



Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 223 

No. 12. 

SILVER NITRATE OINTMENT DYE. 

Silver Nitrate 38 grains 

Oil of Rose Geranium 8 drops 

Vaseline 4 ounces 

Mix. Apply as needed. 

This should be applied every two or three weeks. 

Synthetic Hair Dyes. 

As a rule most of the synthetic hair dyes irritate the 
skin and produce eczema or other skin inflammations. 
They are used extensively for dyeing furs and false hair. 
They possess the advantage of resisting the effects of 
light and water. One of the chemicals most widely known 
is Paraphenylenediamine. According to a German patent 
the entire formula is as follows: 

Solution A. 

Paraphenylenediamine 2 parts 

Caustic Soda 14 parts 

Water 1000 parts 

Solution B. 

Hydrogen Dioxide 3 parts 

Water 100 parts 

Another preparation widely extolled is known as 
Aureol, also a German preparation. This preparation is 
composed of : 

Metol 10 parts 

Amidophenol Hydrochloride 3 parts 

Monarnidophenylamine 6 parts 

Sodium Sulphite 5 parts 

Dilute alcohol, to make 1000 parts 

Dissolve the sulphite in the alcohol and all the other ingredients. 



224 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

In using this dye the hair should first be washed with 
a soda solution or soap, rinsed thoroughly with clear 
water, and allowed to dry partially ; then with a fine tooth 
comb apply this liquid previously mixed with an equal pro- 
portion of hydrogen peroxide. In the course of two or 
three hours the hair will assume a dark brown color which 
can be increased to black by repeated applications of the 
dye. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

SCIENTIFIC APPLICATION OF HAIR DYE. 

The application of a dye is comparatively easy if the 
proper method is understood. It may be applied to one's 
own hair with the aid of mirrors properly arranged, 
although in most cases somewhat better results may be 
secured if the application is made by an assistant. The 
room chosen should be well lighted, and the neck and 
shoulders protected by a cloth. 

Separate the hair into four equal sections by partings 
from center of forehead to nape of neck and from ear to 
ear. Pour a small quantity of the dye into a saucer and 
apply to the front hair first, as the hair in front is more 
difficult to color. 

Divide into half inch sections, and with the aid of a 
hard rubber comb and a small stiff brush, apply the dye to 
the roots only, or to the entire hair shaft, as the case may 
require. The hair strands should be held in such a man- 
ner that the dye will flow toward the scalp, as otherwise 
the hair points may be dyed a deeper color than the hair 
near the head. Some operators prefer to brush the dye 
into the hair by movements directed toward the scalp, 
while others brush toward the point. Constant combing 
during the application is of great assistance in obtaining 
an even distribution of the dye. Upon completion of the 
dyeing process, the hair should be dried and retouched if 
necessary, after which it should again be dried and 
washed. 

15 (225) 



226 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Suggestions. 

Spare no pains in the preparation of the hair before 
the dye is applied. Remove all oil or foreign matter by a 
shampoo, to which one per cent of Soda — one teaspoon- 
f ul to a pint on an average — may be added. Fine hair or 
dry hair requires less soda in the shampoo than coarse or 
greasy hair. 

Wash out all traces of the shampoo with tepid water, 
and to the final rinse water it is sometimes of advantage to 
add Acetic acid — two teaspoonfuls to a quart. Four 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar to a quart of water may be used 
if the Acetic acid is not available. If the water used in 
the shampoo contains even a trace of lime, the latter may 
be deposited on the hair shaft and prevent the proper 
absorption of the dye. After the dyeing process has been 
completed the final shampoo should be given to remove 
any excess of dye in order that the scalp may be cleansed, 
and proper gloss restored to the hair. 

Hair can contain only one substance at a time; oil, 
moisture, or coloring matter; therefore, if the hair takes 
the coloring matter properly these elements should be 
removed. 

We can only dye that part of the hair which is outside 
of the scalp, and as the rate of hair growth is three-eighths 
to three-quarters of an inch a month, this new growth 
must from time to time be tinted the same color as the rest 
of the hair. 

The theory of hair dyeing is based upon the assump- 
tion that a true' dye not only colors the outside of the hair 
shaft, but penetrates it through and through ; and in those 
rare instances when it is desired to obtain a lighter shade 
than the color of the hair to be dyed, the darker color must 
first be removed, else the color of the dye will be modified 



Scientific Application of Hair Dye. 227 

by the natural darker coloring matter which the hair 
possesses. 

Should it be desired to obtain by the employment of a 
dye a lighter shade than the original color of the hair, or 
if much gray hair is present, the hair may be bleached with 
peroxide, and a light color applied to the gray hair; if it 
is found difficult to make the gray hair take the lighter 
color, it may be colored to match the original darker shade, 
after which all of the hair may be decolorized until the 
shade required is obtained. This method is usually the 
most satisfactory. 

If several shades of hair are present, the safe plan is 
to take a small amount of hair of each shade, apply the 
dye, and when good results are obtained proceed with the 
dyeing process; or it may be advisable to secure the serv- 
ices of a competent operator for the first application, after 
which the subsequent retouching necessary to maintain 
the proper shade is much more easily performed. 

When desired to apply a dye to the hair roots alone, 
or to a small amount of gray hair found on the temples, 
the oil may be removed by a thorough cleansing with pure 
Spirits of Wine. A little oil applied to the surrounding 
hair will prevent the dye from spreading. 

To change the shade of hair which has been pre- 
viously dyed, all traces of former coloring agents, espe- 
cially those of Silver or Lead, should first be removed by 
decolorizing with caution. 

Persons whose scalp is unhealthy from any cause, or 
who have a predisposition to eczema or skin disease should 
exercise caution in using a hair bleach or dye. To deter- 
mine whether or not the dye to be used will cause scalp 
irritation, a small quantity may be applied, to the skin and 
left over night; if no bad effects result it is said the dye 
may be used with safety. 



228 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Practically all hair dyes should be sparingly applied, 
and any resulting scalp stain removed by the use of a 
shampoo, by the application of oil, or lemon juice and 
pumice stone. 

Hair should not be curled or waved the same day a 
dye has been applied. 

The great majority of manufactured hair dyes con- 
sist of mineral compounds rather than vegetable products, 
notwithstanding the claims of the manufacturers to the 
contrary; since practically all vegetable pigments fade 
under the influence of light and oxygen. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE FINGER AND TOE NAILS. 

The Finger Nails. 

The hand may be ever so well formed and ever so well 
kept, yet without carefully tended nails will present an 
unsightly appearance. The possession of beautiful nails 
demands thought and care not only in all details which are 
necessary to secure absolute cleanliness, but also in se- 
curing that harmony of shape and color which is the 
indication of refinement and culture. Soiled, neglected 
nails are always in evidence, and create a most unfavor- 
able impression in the realms of society or the domain of 
business. It matters not whether the nails are short, 
soiled, or chewed off, with broadened ugly finger ends, 
indicating a total lack of care as well as bespeaking sloth- 
fulness and careless personal habits, or whether they pro- 
ject far over the finger ends and are trimmed into a sharp 
point serving as symbols of the idler or fop, — each is 
offensive to good taste. In the past the cosmetics of the 
nails was considered in the light of a luxury to be indulged 
in only by the rich and idle, but today their care is a matter 
of necessity. The modern cosmetics of the nails have been 
rendered simple and efficient through our increased knowl- 
edge of this anatomy and physiology of the latter, together 
with the refinement and greater variety of needed instru- 
ments, and the more scientific medicinal preparations 
available to promote normal nail health and growth; and 
through the prevention or cure of unsightly diseased con- 
ditions which might wholly or in part destroy the nail, or 

(229) 



230 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

permanently mar its beauty. There is no mystery about 
the care of the nails — indeed the subject is a very simple 
one — and beautiful nails may be secured as the result of 
but little thought and care. 

Anatomy of the Nails. 

The nails are flattened, elastic plates of a horny 
texture, which cover the Dorsal surface of the terminal 
phalanges of the fingers and toes. They are peculiar 
modifications of the epidermis, or false skin, and are com- 
posed of closely united plates of horny epithelial cells. 
They are derived principally from the Stratum Lucidum, 
one of the layers of the false skin, and are therefore a 
peculiar modification of the skin itself. 

Each nail is convex on its outer surface and concave 
within, and exists as a large exposed body which ends 
anteriorly in the projecting free edge, and posteriorly as 
the root, which extends some considerable distance be- 
neath the over-hanging upper margin of the groove or 
nail fold; at the sides the borders of the nail are covered 
by the nail walls. That part of the finger upon which the 
nail rests has a rich nerve and blood supply, and is called 
the nail bed; the posterior part of which, covered by the 
root of the nail, is called the matrix. The posterior part 
of the nail is usually lighter in color, and extends beyond 
the nail fold as a pale, projecting, convex area called the 
lunula. The nail is attached throughout its entire extent 
to the nail bed, but the transformation of the deeper cells 
into the horny plates of the nail takes place only over the 
matrix, each particle of newly formed nail substance push- 
ing before it the older, already existing part of the nail at 
the average rate of one thirty-second part of an inch per 
week. 



^ 




PLATE IV. 

FINGER NAIL COMPLETELY ISOLATED. SEEN FROM 
CONVEX SIDE. 

a. Free edge of nail. 

b. Lateral margin of nail. 

c. Lunula. 

d. Body of the nail. 

e. Nail root. 

f. concealed margin of the nail. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 231 

The Nail Bed is composed of the Corium, or true 
skin, and that layer of the Epidermis, or false skin, which 
corresponds to the Stratum Malpigii. 

The Corium consists of bundles of fibro elastic tis- 
sue arranged parallel to the long axis of the finger; 
the longitudinal bundles being supplemented by vertical 
bundles extending from the superficial layer to the Perios- 
teum, or the membrane which surrounds the bone. 

The Malpigian Layer serves to fill up the inequali- 
ties between the papillae and the ridges of the Corium. 
The nail fold and the nail wall are of the same general 
structure as the skin. The nail plate itself has no blood or 
nerve supply; but it may be noted that each digital nerve 
gives an especial branch of large size to the pulp of the 
finger, and this explains the intense pain felt when a for- 
eign body is thrust under the nail 

The Color of the Nails. 

The color of the nails must harmonize with anatomic 
conditions. At the base of the nail the Lunula should be 
a delicate pink- white shade; above the nail bed, pink- 
white ; and along the free rim, which should form a gentle 
curve, a dim white. 

The Shape of the Nails. 

The shape and length of the nail should conform 
to the dictates of fashion and the appropriate demands 
of business. Extremely long or short nails, or very 
pointed nails, are no longer considered proper, for extreme 
length of the finger nails is unsightly, as all extremes are 
apt to be, and in addition they are impractical and a hin- 
drance to the ordinary use of the hand. Conversely, the 



232 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

nails should not be worn too short as they cannot fulfill 
their purpose which lies not only in giving strength to the 
sensitive finger ends in manual labor, but also in enabling 
one to perform a thousand little mechanical acts such as 
the picking up of a pin. Cosmetically they shorten the 
fingers and impair their grace and symmetry. The nail 
should project in a straight line until it leaves its side 
groove, the free edge extending for a short distance 
beyond the finger tip. The nails may be worn slightly 
pointed or with a rounding edge which should correspond 
to the curved line behind. Nails that are well cared for 
and trimmed according to this principle, create the im- 
pression of extraordinary beauty; the nail itself gaining 
much in cosmetic appearance, while the finger points ap- 
pear longer, and the entire hand more slender and sym- 
metrical. 

Shortening the Nails. 

The frequency of cutting the nails is necessarily de- 
pendent upon the requirements of maintaining their 
proper length. While the average rate of growth is one 
thirty-second of an inch per week, this rate of growth 
not only varies in different individuals and in the hands 
and feet, but also in the same person at various times of 
life and in different degrees of health. 

The nails should never be cut at the corners and sides 
more than in the middle in order that the sides may be 
short, as this practice will result in an ingrowing of the 
nails. 

The instrument selected for trimming the nails de- 
pends largely upon one's preference and the circumstances 
under which the nails are trimmed. The professional 
manicurists almost invariably make use of the scissors, 
while the individuals who trim their own nails may prefer 



-a 



\r 



/ \ 



PLATE V. 
MATRIX OF THE NAIL, OR NAIL BED. 

a. Finger tip. 

b. Nail bed. 

c. Xail wall. 

(1. Matrix of the nail; partially covered by the nail roof, or nail fold, 
e. Xail fold. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 233 

to use a knife. Some eminent German authorities give 
the preference to a sharp knife, but if this is not available 
they advise soaking the finger tips in hot, soapy water 
until the nails are sufficiently softened, and then cutting 
with a pair of sharp scissors. In my opinion the choice 
of instruments is not so important if the shortening be 
properly done. The objection to the use of the knife is 
the tendency to undue shortening of the nails, especially 
at the corners ; while the fault with the scissors lies in the 
tearing, splitting effect upon the nail, which result is espe- 
cially pronounced if the scissors are dull or if the nail is 
dry or brittle. 

Trimming. 

To prepare for trimming, soften finger nails by a 
thorough soaking in warm soapy water, or in warm oil if 
preferred. Then trim from center to side to convenient 
length and finish the operation with a file. 

Filing. 

File nail from side to center. After filing soak finger 
tips in an antiseptic solution which will also serve as a 
bleaching agent and soften the cuticle; for which purpose 
the following preparation will be found efficient : 

Hydrogen Peroxide 2 ounces 

Rose Water 1 ounce 

Benzoin 1 9 drops 

Use as directed. 

Cleansing the Nails. 

The cleanliness of the nails is an important factor in 
the care of the hands, since they cannot pass as clean 
when the nails are soiled. This is best accomplished by 



234 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

washing, with the aid of a nail brush. Should something 
more be required a small pointed stick of orange wood is 
best. The constant use of a knife or file to assist in cleans- 
ing the under surface of the nail end will make it ragged 
and rough, while the persistent use of the orange stick will 
leave the surface smooth and afford less opportunity for 
foreign matter to adhere. Remove any stain from under- 
neath the nail by applying a bleach with the orange wood 
stick. 

Hang Nails. 

In uncared for nails one finds a small, thin membrane 
creeping out from the root over the face of the nail, which 
gradually becomes thinner as it extends and which serves 
to obscure the lunula. On both sides of the nail this little 
membrane assumes the form of a peak which loosens from 
the side nail grooves and forms the undesirable hang nail. 

Hang nails are only found upon cosmetically neg- 
lected or improperly treated nails, and not only result in 
impairing their beauty, but are also the source of many 
infectious diseases. 

Treatment. 

Loosen hang nails with cuticle knife or orange stick 
and cut them off as close to their roots as possible. If the 
hang nail is thoroughly loosened and cut^ close to the root 
it will not reappear ; otherwise it will continue to grow and 
prove annoying. After removal, a nail cream or ointment 
may be applied. 

Treating the Cuticle. 

The cuticle around the sides, and at the base of the 
nail will, if uncared for, grow forward over the base of 
the nail and partially or wholly obscure the Lunula. The 
effect is unsightly and is due to neglect. To prevent this 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 235 

condition, massage of the base of the nail nightly with cold 
cream will keep the cuticle loosened and in its proper posi- 
tion. The best movement is that used in putting on a pair 
of gloves — simply a smoothing and working back of the 
cuticle. 

Treatment for Dry, Brittle Nails. 

The nails should be nourished and softened by apply- 
ing a good cold cream to the nails and the skin surround- 
ing them. Once or twice during the day the finger tips 
should be held in warm olive oil. The following prepara- 
tion should be applied at night and loose, clean gloves 
worn. 

Cream for the Nails. 

Spermaceti i-J drams 

White Wax ij drams 

Oil of Sweet Almonds i-J ounces 

Alkanet root i dram 

Oil of Rose Geranium 15 drops 

Melt the first four ingredients, strain, beat until 
nearly cold ; then add the oil of rose geranium. Pour into 
wide mouthed porcelain bottles or jars. 

Bleaching the Hands. 

The skin of the hands may be whitened if desired, in 
the following manner : Thoroughly wash hands and fore- 
arms with warm soft water and soap, dry carefully, and 
apply the following preparation which makes a most effi- 
cient whitening paste, especially adapted for ladies' use : 

Powdered white castile soap 4 ounces 

Powdered Orris Root 1 ounce 

Corn Starch i-J drams 

Glycerine i-J ounces 

Oil of Lemon 45 minims 



236 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Mix thoroughly the glycerine and starch, and heat in 
a porcelain vessel until a translucent jelly is formed; then 
add other ingredients. The paste may be thinned if de- 
sired by the addition of glycerine or water. 

Directions: Apply at bed hour. Cotton gloves 
may be worn during the night. 

Molding. 

Molding of the hands and fingers is best attained by 
means of massage. Apply a good massage cream and 
massage all joints of fingers and thumb with a twisting 
movement, going over fingers in this manner several times, 
and pressing finger tips to a point to make them more 
tapering. This will reduce the size of the joints and make 
the muscles more pliable. Finish treatment with a vigor- 
ous slapping to remove the superfluous fat from a hand 
that is too plump, and to strengthen and fill out the muscles 
of one too thin. Remove the massage cream which has 
been applied at beginning of the treatment, by means of a 
soft towel, and apply any toilet powder desired. 

The Manicure. 

A complete set of instruments used for the manicure 
embrace the following : 

1 . One thin, very flexible file. 

2 . One pair of cuticle scissors, with small curved blades 
and sharp points. 

3 . Two orange sticks ; one flat at the end, used to loosen 
and push back the cuticle; one trimmed to a point, 
around which a small amount of medicated cotton is 
wrapped, with which the free edge of the nail is 
cleaned. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 237 

4. One cuticle blade, not extremely sharp, with which to 
remove the white membrane that in neglected nails 
clings to the base and obscures the Lunula. 

5. One small brush after the fashion of a child's tooth 
brush with which to brush away nail dust or any tiny 
particles of cuticle or membrane that have been 
loosened. 

6. An emery board six inches long, having a fine and a 
coarse side with which to smooth the nails after the 
initial filing or trimming. 

7. Small jar of powdered pumice stone and French 
chalk, to be used in smoothing a roughened nail 
surface. 

8. Small jar of any good cold cream to be applied on the 
cotton-wrapped point of the orange stick in working 
back the cuticle. 

9. Two buffers; one of small size and covered with 
chamois with which the polishing powders and 
creams are first applied, and which is used for the 
first polishing; the second, larger, and covered with 
chamois or leather, very soft and padded and scru- 
pulously clean, with which to polish the nails after 
they have been washed. 

To Manicure the Nails Properly. 

First, with the long, flexible file reduce the nail to the 
desired length and shape, moving the file swiftly from 
sides to center of nail. Then immerse the nails in a bowl 
of warm water to which enough good liquid soap has been 
added to make it the consistency of thin syrup, allowing 
them to remain in the water five minutes (prolonged soak- 
ing renders the cuticle too soft). Dry the fingers, and 
with the flattened end of an orange stick dipped in cold 
cream, gently loosen and push back the adherent cuticle 



238 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

until it is entirely free from the nail surface. Upon nails 
that are not regularly cared for it is sometimes necessary 
to use the cuticle scissors in removing small torn particles ; 
but avoid cutting the cuticle when possible, as hang nails, 
the result of improper trimming, may result. Now with 
the dull-bladed cuticle knife remove all adhering white 
membrane around the base of the nail, being careful not 
to cut or mar its surface. In nails that have been neg- 
lected the Lunula or half moon will not at first appear; 
but after two or three manicurings it is bound to do so, if 
the cuticle is properly pressed back and the white scaly 
membrane is removed. Always use plenty of cold cream 
upon the cuticle blade and the nails. Next, with a pointed 
orange stick wrapped with cotton and dipped in peroxide 
remove all particles of dirt adhering to the free edge of 
the nail, being careful not to penetrate the underlying skin 
or flesh. Do not permit the nail surface to be scraped 
with a steel instrument, as unsightly furrows will result; 
if these are present such scraping will increase them. 
With the finer side of an emery board gently file away 
particles of nail that the steel file and the soaking in hot 
water have not removed. Now with the small brush dip 
lightly into the pumice and prepared chalk, and brush the 
nail surface softly, four to six strokes to each nail. 

Wash the hand and nails, using a nail brush and 
soap, thus removing all foreign matter. Dry the hand 
and nails thoroughly and with the tip of the finger apply 
a small amount of the nail tint or polish. If in liquid form 
it is best to use a polishing powder in connection with it, 
this to be applied to the buffer instead of the nail. With 
the small chamois buffer polish the nails by moving it 
swiftly back and forth, but avoid any burning sensation 
caused by excessive friction. Again wash the nails thor- 
oughly, and dry. Now give them a careful overlooking 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 239 

and remove with scissors or orange stick any clinging 
particles. Finish by polishing the nail with the larger 
chamois or leather buffer, or if preferred, with the fleshy 
part of the palm below the base of the thumb, as this will 
give a more brilliant and lasting lustre than the polish 
given with a buffer. 

Daily attention is required if the nails are to be kept 
in perfect condition, but this does not imply a thorough 
manicuring, nor would such be advisable. Too frequent 
polishing is as bad as too frequent paring since it has a 
tendency to make the nails thin and weak, thereby taking 
away the support from the finger tips and destroying the 
slender shape of the finger ends. It is well to give the 
nails a few minutes care each day ; pushing back the cuticle 
with the orange stick, apply a little cold cream to the base 
of the nail, remove any particles of foreign matter from 
underneath the free edge, and use the buffer or palm to 
produce the desired polish. The resulting effect fully 
repays one for the time so spent. 

Cosmetic preparations intended for the care and pres- 
ervation of the nails are demanded by good taste and are 
of universal use. A nail ointment, polishing powder, or 
nail bleach should be free from alkali if the best results 
are to be obtained. 

There are many preparations on the market, some of 
which are more or less injurious to the nails, rendering 
them extremely brittle and prone to easy splitting and 
breaking. The following formulae are for preparations 
that will satisfy every demand of elegance, efficiency and 
harmlessness. 



240 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails, 

Nail Bleaches. 

The juice of a lemon combined with a little salt makes 
a good bleach in the absence of a specific preparation. 

No. 1. 

g OXALIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 

Oxalic Acid I dram 

Rose Water 2 ounces 

Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
or flannel. 

No. 2. 

^ CITRIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 

Citric Acid 1 dram 

Rose Water 2 ounces 

Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
or flannel. 

No. 3. 

^ ACETIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 

Acetic Acid 1 dram 

Rose Water 2 ounces 

Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
or flannel. 

No. 4. 

^ TARTARIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 

Tartaric Acid 1 dram 

Tincture of Myrrh 1 dram 

Distilled water enough to make 2 ounces 

Dissolve the acid in the water, add the other ingre- 
dients and strain. Dip the nails in this solution, wipe 
nearly dry and polish with chamois. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 241 

5 No. 5. 
Sodium Perborate 2 ounces 



Mix one teaspoonful in one ounce of water and apply 
solution to finger nails with nail brush, then dry and polish. 
This is a most efficient cleansing and bleaching agent. 

Nail Polishes. 

No. 1. 

NAIL POLISH (POWDER). 

Tin Oxide ij ounces 

Carmine 7\ grains 

Oil Bergamot 4 minims 

Oil Lavender 4 minims 

Mix. 

Apply powder to nail and polish with buffer. 

No. 2. 

NAIL POLISH (POWDER). 

A superlative nail polish is prepared as follows : 



Putty powder 2 ounces 

Sodium Perborate i dram 

Carmine 20 grains 

Perfume to suit 

Triturate the putty powder and carmine, then add the 
other ingredients. 

Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 



*16 



242 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

No. 3. 

^ NAIL POLISH (PASTE). 

White Wax 3 drams 

Oil Sweet Almonds . 3 drams 

Carmine 45 grains 

Powdered Talcum 40 grains 

Mix. 

Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 

No. 4. 

£ NAIL POLISH (WATER). 

Distilled Water 2 ounces 

Alcohol if ounces 

Oxide of Tin 2-J drams 

Carmine 15 grains 

Mix. 

Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 

No. 5. 

£ NAIL POLISH (WATER). 

Distilled Water 5 ounces 

Sulphuric acid 2\ drams 

Tinct. Benzoin 75 minims 

Citric Acid 75 grains 

Mix and strain. 

Apply to nails by means of a soft leather or flannel, 
and polish. 

No. 1. 

£ NAIL ENAMEL. 

Paraffin wax 1 dram 

Chloroform 2 ounces 

Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 

Mix. 

Apply the enamel to nails with chamois. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 245 

Absence of Nail Plates. 

When through accident or disease the nail plate has 
been permanently lost, efforts have been made to restore 
the cosmetic appearance of the finger by supplying an arti- 
ficial nail. Artificial nails are usually made of celluloid 
or ivory, but on account of the difficulty of securely fasten- 
ing the rigid plates upon the nail bed this procedure has 
not met with much success. In any event celluloid plates 
are not recommended on account of their inflammable 
nature. 

Warped Nails and Deviations From the Normal 

Positions. 

This condition is due solely to accident or disease, and 
relief should be expected only from the qualified physician 
or surgeon who is competent through special training to 
remedy the condition. 

Discoloration of the Nail Plates. 

Discolorations of the nail may be temporary or per- 
manent, and may occur as the result of artificial stains 
locally applied, as the result of medicine taken internally, 
or as a consequence of disease or injury. Externally ap- 
plied, pigments do not penetrate deeply into the horn sub- 
stance, but the continuous application to the nails of stains 
may result in a discoloration which is difficult to remove, 
especially if some of the stain has found entrance into the 
nail bed. Stains of this nature may be removed through 
the use of bleaching agents, or through thoroughly scrub- 
bing the nails, or by means of sandpaper or file. 

The discoloration of the nails due to the effects of 
medicine internally administered, such as the deposits 
found about the nails as a result of the administration of 



/ 



246 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

the Silver Salts, can be corrected only through the with- 
drawal of the offending drugs, together with the adoption 
of proper means to hasten their elimination. The correc- 
tion of discolorations due to disease depends primarily 
upon the removal of the cause. 

White Spots in the Nail. 

Under the caption of discoloration of the nails we 
include the variation in color caused by the presence of 
white spots or streaks, which range in size from small 
spots or lines, to areas so large as to cover the entire nail 
plate. The white spots are caused by a collection of small 
air bubbles in the nail plate between the transparent nail 
cells, and are usually found among people who make no 
attempt to care for the nails, and among those who take 
improper care of the nails. Injury inflicted by the care- 
less pushing back of the nail epidermis is a frequent cause 
of white spots, although in rare instances the entrance of 
air between the cells of the plate is caused by disease. 
The white spots are formed in the soft part of the nail 
plate immediately over the matrix, and their progress 
toward the free edge of the nail is due to nail growth. 
They can be prevented by adopting scientific measures for 
the care of the nails, and by the cure of any constitutional 
or local disease, if disease is the cause. 

Treatment. 

White spots can be eradicated only through such 
trimming as is made possible by the growth of the nails; 
but thorough polishing will serve to render their presence 
less noticeable. 

Apparent discolorations due to the presence of blood 
under the nail, as the result of accident, are usually ab- 
sorbed, are temporary in nature, and require no treatment. 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 247 

Under discoloration of the nails we do not include 
those cases of dark pigmentation of the lunula which is 
a characteristic of the negro race. An individual belong- 
ing to a dark pigmented race does not possess the light 
colored area at the base of the nail which is a character- 
istic of those who are of the white race, and by this sign 
an individual of "white blood" whose skin has become 
dark through exposure to the elements, or a colored man 
whose skin has become light through protection from the 
elements, can be differentiated one from the other. 

Softening of the Nail Plates. 

Softening of the nail plate is frequently met with in 
young girls. It usually accompanies or is the result of 
lowered vitality, and is marked by excessive perspiration 
of the hands. This condition may result also from the 
effects of an eczema, or from the action of soap or lye. 

Treatment. 

Iron in an easily assimilated form should be pre- 
scribed to correct the anaemia. For the excessive sweat- 
ing the local application of Tincture of Belladonna either 
diluted or full strength is the best treatment. If a powder 
is desired the following will be found valuable: 

Salicylic Acid 20 grains 

Zinc Oxide 1 ounce 

Mix. 

Apply as a dusting powder. 

Furrows of the Nail Plates. 

Furrows are frequently found extending throughout 
the length or across the breadth of the nail plate. They 



248 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

may be so shallow as to be hardly noticeable, or may pene- 
trate deep into the substance of the nail; they may be 
found singly or arranged in rows ; and may be caused by 
a variety of conditions, such as mental overwork, or the 
result of fevers with a consequent disturbance of nail 
nutrition. The length furrows appear almost universally 
on the nails of old people. 

Treatment. 

Since the transverse furrows progress as a result of 
nail growth toward the end of the nail, they will be 
eventually removed by the trimming process. If their 
presence is caused by local disease the disease should be 
corrected. The longitudinal furrows cannot be removed 
by trimming, but the appearance of the nails can be vastly 
improved by thoroughly polishing, which will render the 
furrows much less apparent. 

Biting of the Nails. 

Biting the nails is a morbid habit frequently practiced 
by anaemic and nervous children, and sometimes by adults 
of both sexes. It is said that nail biters are often poor 
scholars, which condition may be explained by an existing 
nervous or other unhealthy condition. If the habit is 
firmly established it is unconsciously indulged in. The 
habit of biting the nails, if persistently followed, results 
in misshapen fingers, with club shaped ends, and is accom- 
paned by a real shortening of the fingers. 

Treatment. 

A careful examination of the bowel secretions of chil- 
dren for worms should never be omitted, and all existing 
causes of ill health should be corrected. Locally a solution 
of quinine dissolved in Acetone in the proportion of one 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 249 

to ten, or some equally harmless medicinal preparation of 
a bitter nature, should be applied to the finger tips. This 
failing, gloves stitched about the wrist should be worn 
constantly until the habit is corrected. 

Eczema of the Nails. 

Eczema of the nails usually begins upon the skin of 
the fingers and extends to the nail organs, or it may be 
localized on the finger nails. It results in a more or less 
severe inflammation of the nail walls; and the nail plate 
may loosen, with the formation of a thin, watery secre- 
tion. The disease may be confined to one nail, or several 
nails may be involved; and unless cured, result in various 
defects of growth and color. 

Treatment. 

The fingers should be soaked for half an hour in hot 
water to which soap or soda has been added, and the fol- 
lowing preparation applied locally : 

Anthrasol 5 drams 

Salicylic Acid 2\ drams 

Olive Oil 12J drams 

Mix. 

Apply locally. 

Diseases of the Nail Epidermis. 

One of the most frequent disorders about the nail is 
the result of infections from small skin wounds. When 
the nails are improperly cared for and become too dry, 
small tears which lead to small splinter-like detachments 
of epidermis are found. If neglected, serious disorders of 
the nail organs may result. 



250 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

Treatment. 

The treatment consists in the evacuation of any secre- 
tion which may be present, the application of an antiseptic 
solution, and sensible cosmetic treatment of the nails. 

The Toe Nails. 

The cosmetic care of the toe nails is essentially the 
same as that of the finger nails, the extent of their beauty 
culture being a matter of personal taste. For those of 
fastidious tastes and ample leisure, the beauty culture of 
the nails should be encouraged and can with perfect pro- 
priety be carried to an extent which might seem absurd 
to those whose situation in life or whose personal tastes 
would condemn such care. The average individual is sat- 
isfied to carry out the ordinary details of hygiene in order 
that cleanliness and comfort may be maintained. 

The important essential in caring for the toe nails is 
based upon attention to the details of trimming in order 
to avoid ingrowing toe nails, which naturally are influ- 
enced by the daily use of the feet and by the constant 
wearing of boots or shoes which are frequently tight or 
ill-fitting. The nail should extend to the end of, or just 
beyond the tip of the toe in an almost straight line; the 
corners and sides of the nail should not be cut or filed, if 
one would avoid the infliction of ingrowing toe nails with 
their attendant pain and discomfort. 

While it is not our intention to enter into a discussion 
of the aflections of the toe nails, a few words concerning 
this very prevalent condition may not be amiss. 

Ingrowing Toe Nails. 

The most common and distressing afTection of the 
toe nails is the so-called ingrowing toe nail, which usually 



The Finger and Toe Nails. 251 

begins by an irritation in the fold of skin at one or both 
sides of the nail. The skin gradually thickens and press- 
ing against the corner of the nail, begins to ulcerate. The 
nail at this point being cut away, a sharp corner in the nail 
is formed farther back which causes additional irritation 
with increasing ulceration until medical or surgical relief 
is obtained. 

Treatment. 

The wearing of correct footwear is important. If 
seen early, cleanse the toe and apply cold, wet dressings 
until the inflammation has subsided; then with an orange 
wood stick raise the corner of the nail that is causing the 
irritation and pack under it lint or cotton which has been 
saturated in a solution of: Alum six drams to hot water 
one ounce. Trim the nail straight across and cut a V 
shape in the center as far back as possible, then scrape thin 
along the middle line from the notch to base of nail. This 
failing to afford relief, the side and wall of the offending 
nail should be removed by surgical means. The instru- 
ments required by a chiropodist for the care of the 
nails are : 

1 . Heavy scissors or knife for trimming the nails. 

2. Medium thin, flexible files of good quality which can 
be used in the delicate side grooves. 

3 . A nail scissors with curved blades. 

4. A sharp knife to remove the loosened parts of 
epidermis. 

5 . A nail tweezer. 

6. A stick of. ivory or orange wood to loosen the epi- 
dermis on the nail. 

7 . A narrow strip of emery board which may be used in 
place of the file. 



252 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 

8 . A polishing cushion which should be small, hard, and 
covered with leather. 

9 . A small hook to pull out little nail parts. 

The cosmetic preparations and their method of appli- 
cation to the finger nails serve all purposes equally well 
when applied to the toe nails. 






